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Showing content with the highest reputation on 12/30/2025 in Posts
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Being a diagnosed dyslexic myself, makes this stuff pretty challenging. Even keeping word order and spelling straight in English can be rough. I usually reread my posts 5-10 times before I finally catch mistakes that other people notice almost immediately. Sometimes I don't even see those mistakes until I leave and come back with a fresh perspective. It gets even harder when kanji are involved, especially counting strokes. A lot of that comes from just not being familiar with another language, but it still takes a fair amount of effort. I've done it before, but I don’t really like using dyslexia as an excuse, because it’s just part of my everyday life. It’s very common, and most people who have it don’t even know, and those who do, often don't lean on it like an ailment. I literally don't even know what it's like to NOT have dyslexia . As I understand it, there's varying levels severity with dyslexia, so I must have the more common mild version... So it may be the cause for mistakes in spelling here and there, but it's typically no biggie. It makes me a slower and more careful learner, and I think that's a good thing. I even read slowly, which is how I was flagged to then be diagnosed while I was in school. I still have to google MENUKI and MEKUGI half the time, so I don't mix them up -Sam6 points
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Interesting discussion. There are at least three (four?) systems of transliterating Japanese to English, some from the 19th century. I used to agonise over this in my early days of collecting, but no more. My view is that we should be as good as we can by example individually and be gentle and encouraging with other folk as Jean has done, without being didactic in the matter. The Hepburn system is the preferred method, but these days I reckon we should roll with the punches instead of being overly precious about it. The way to have the stuffing knocked out of you is to study Japanese intensively for a few years... BaZZa.4 points
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LB142 straight guard Type 30 bayonet with bright blade,豐田自動織機(Toyoda Automatic Loom Works)made, under Nagoya arsenal‘s (名古屋陸軍造兵廠)supervision .Ser# on the bottom of the pommel should start with Hiragana ろに,which means 100th Series.4 points
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No. Atobori was a historically common and context-dependent practice from the Edo period onward. To recap.. Atobori (後彫り) refers to carving in a blade separate from the original design for the blade at its time of manufacture. That is to say after the sword was originally forged and finished, rather than as part of the smith’s initial “conception”. While often viewed critically by modern collectors, atobori was quite common practice from the Edo period onward. The prolonged absence of large-scale warfare in the Edo period reduced the practical emphasis on armor-piercing and battlefield durability, while factors such as balance, handling, and visual refinement gained relative importance. Within this context, atobori bo-hi were sometimes added to existing blades to alter weight distribution, improve handling characteristics, or adapt older swords to contemporary preferences. Atobori was also influenced by aesthetic fashion. Certain periods favored the presence of hi as a visual element, particularly on otherwise plain blades. Adding a groove could visually sharpen the sugata, emphasize curvature, or lend an older sword a more “classical” appearance in keeping with prevailing taste. When carried out by skilled hands, such work could be executed in orthodox styles, including nagashi terminations, making the best atobori difficult to distinguish from original carving. In the Meiji period, motivations shifted further. The abolition of sword-wearing and the collapse of the traditional samurai market led to the modification of many older blades to enhance their visual appeal to collectors, tourists, or foreign buyers. Atobori bo-hi from this period were often added to make a blade appear more dynamic or refined, sometimes with little regard for historical coherence, though the quality of execution varied widely. In the early 20th century, atobori continued for mixed reasons. Some blades were modified for martial arts use, where balance and handling were prioritized, while others were altered during remounting or refurbishment. As before, the workmanship ranged from careful and traditional to purely cosmetic. Importantly, atobori does not automatically imply deception / fake / gimei or poor quality. Many atobori hi were executed competently and reflect legitimate historical practices. However, because the carving was not part of the blade’s original forging concept, any but the best often reveal subtle inconsistencies in proportion, termination logic, or stylistic harmony when compared to original work. For this reason, experienced observers tend to assess atobori not by a single technical fault, but by the cumulative weight of visual, stylistic, and historical considerations.4 points
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Smartphone in hand it feels akasaka senjuin mino. Datewise late Nambokucho or beginning of Muromachi. Mune does not match, but everything else looks good for it....3 points
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Ian, concerning the hi, it is a gut feeling. I have seen a lot of hi and this one makes me feel uneasy, it takes time to carve futasuji hi, (there are seen mainly on koto blades, Nambokucho, short ones in the first part of Muromachi). Why carve futasuji hi on a low quality tired blade. BTW, all these info can be found in Nihonto books, buy the Nakayama Kokan, the Connoisseur book of Japanese sword. You will learn from it. have look on the futasuji hi of this Tametsugu blade:3 points
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The blade is proposing to be by Chikuzen Daijo Taikei Naotane and dated Tenpo 8. This is a very famous late Edo period swordsmith and there are many gimei (fake inscriptions) purporting to be his work. Compare with authenticated examples.3 points
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Hi Friends sorry for the delay. Past days i have a trouble uploading images. The color is more realistic in that pictures. Thanks for the info! In Spain the tradicional day for the Christmas presents is on 6th of january, i still have some time. Gemini (better app providing images análisis rather than chat gpt ) sais its late edo too and the fruit is kachi guri, representing dry chessnut joined that simbolice like rokujuro said Fortune and prosperity.2 points
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Museum displays sometimes need a little tweaking here and there. This is a high zunari. The kabuto pole section is usually adjustable, and in this case maybe could be lowered a notch, or they have inserted too much stuffing in support of the ukebari. (Possibly they've lifted the kabuto higher to give visitors a better view of the menpo.)2 points
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@Hudson Pat, well the mounts look to be shingunto. Pics of nakago not too clear. left one is date: 昭和康辰春 Showa kou tatsu haru Showa year of dragon spring (1940). right one is the smith . Last two kanji are 作之 "saku kore" made this. I will look further into his name. Edits now added. I added an example. Well made swords, initially made in Manchuria, under Japanese supervision then later in Japan. See the newer email by Kiipu2 points
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You've done a fine job there, Jay. Really something to be proud of, restoring a piece of history like that. Small-bore Sakai guns from the mid-Tokugawa period onwards tend to be flashy, highly decorated for the rich merchants who would buy them, but yours is more understated, which may be because it is an older version.(?) According to Sawada Taira in his book Nihon no Furuju (and he is a proud resident of Osaka), guns of up to 3 Mon-me were sporting guns for hunting small game, or for target practice. Military guns only start from 3.5 Monme (bore of 13.2 mm) and above, most often around 5 (14.95mm) or 6 Monme (15.78mm). When you talk about the wider diameter of the front of the barrel, do you mean the exterior diameter, or the bore? If the exterior, then I suppose a bulge at the end could stop your hand from slipping off the end of the barrel when loading in cold or wet weather. (Last year I came into possession of a long Sakai gun like yours, and then more recently a shorter, heavier 5 Mon-me military version with larger bore.) For reference:2 points
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Thanks Piers, From reading that page you have provided, I see that it is rare for the front of the barrel to have a wider diameter that the rest of the bore. I assume for easier loading. My example has that characteristic too. I have provided the assembled photo of my gun. From what you have seen, is it possible to tell if it could have been a military gun or for a private individual such as a sporting gun? Thanks, Jay2 points
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I have discussed it a bit in the Guide, but generally if you see one of those with say Kaga Muromachi blade, they are reliable and the blade itself is often good grade because those were not dished out in huge quantities. If you see it with very top name, the modern judgement was obtained and was 1-2 grades lower. Blue papers are never crazy, they can be optimistic... or the modern team could be pessimistic, or even plain wrong.2 points
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荘司筑前大掾大慶藤直胤 = Shōji Chikuzen Daijō Taikei Fuji Naotane 天保八年仲秋 = mid-autumn of Tenpō 8 (1837 CE)2 points
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Modern generation...instant gratification and everything handed on a plate. You get used to it. Many of the people are innocent though...some sign up and forget their details to come back and say thanks. Some just assume it's implied. I try give them the benefit of the doubt. But yeah...it's common everywhere online nowadays.2 points
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Hey guys....I notice this a lot. Newbies with one or two posts, publish something with questions....they get a whole lot of opinion and discussion (mostly correct) but there is a distinct absence of acknowledgement let alone comment by the OP ???? Is it just me?2 points
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“Museum quality” means absolutely nothing. Knowledge determines the understanding of quality, not what some museum displays show us…..stuff they were left eons ago that they neither understand nor try to understand. Of course, there are some specialist exceptions but mostly I have little time for museums. Fine quality things are safest in collectors hands.2 points
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I recently bought this sword from a guy who's uncle brought it back after the war. It has a lovely active hamon and the nakago is profusely marked, with two holes, but I haven't had much luck with reading it. I really appreciate the quality of these traditional Japanese blades, but am very new to determining age, school, province, or reading the mei. Any help will be greatly appreciated.1 point
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Lewis, This style of shikoro is called a manju or o-manju, which was mainly used in the late Muromachi/early Momoyama (although of course, there are Edo examples too). It was in the Momoyama that the hineno jikoro came into being, with the shikoro having a more downward slant and the last lame being shaped to the shoulders, which ostensibly offered better protection. I also agree that Pier's observation is another partial explanation - the kabuto probably sits a bit higher than normal. This armour is a very well-known and often published example - it's a high level armour (as is evidenced by its being on display at the TNM).1 point
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Great. If I get a minute tomorrow I’ll post some molds for you to compare yours with. See here: https://www.militaria.co.za/nmb/topic/28754-accessories-for-the-tanegashima/page/2/#comments1 point
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G'day, I've just got my hands on a pretty large collection of WW2 Shin-Gunto, which I'll get around to photographing and posting on the board. I'm having trouble translating the script on both sides of the Nakago on this one which appears to me to be more stylized than usual, although I'm clear that may just be me. Its marked on both the Nakago, the Mune-Machi and the Tsuba with the stamp that Bruce claissified as the ‘Gi’ stamp in his excellent reference. I'd really appreciate some help. Its also production numbered in red as you'll see in the photos.1 point
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Yes and yes. You bought the first lot? It’ll be interesting to see what you discover once they’re in your hands. The ‘netsuke’ resembles those made in Hong Kong around the turn of the previous century, perhaps 1900-1920…(?)1 point
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Thank you, always interesting of others opinions a great way to learn more. This blade has a lot of activity to view. From memory the closest blade I came across in comparison to this one was a Go blade that I found here on NMB. Now I cant find the link, anyhow one has to be a realist to. I have not seen this thick of ara-nie mistiness on a Tametsugu blade. Uchinoke would point towards Yamato? I will read up Personally I dont think the kissaki has been to overly changed, but I also reacted when it came back. But this is a surviving battle blade so it is realistic that it has been through a "few" polishing stages. I have a few 100 more photos if someone wants a link and have a few minutes to watch blade xxx. -B1 point
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I don’t think this armor fits in the category “form over function”! A certain gap between the shikoro and upper the edge of the sode is almost unavoidable. In this case, the uppermost plate of the sode (kanmuri no ita) is executed as ori-kanmuri no ita (angled). That should add some additional protection. We also have to keep in mind that the neck of the wearer was often covered by an armored collar (eri-mawashi). Lovley gusoku, BTW!1 point
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As far as I know, all the guns with a bulbuous muzzle still have a regular bore diameter at the end, none have a flared bore like a blunderbuss. So wouldn't help with the ramrod much. I think it is just aesthetic1 point
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I think the kissaki must have been worked to it's current form long time ago, and the polisher now probably just maintained it's form. Identifying the small details is always difficult to me but I think the two red arrows in your second post could be uchinoke (https://markussesko.com/2015/05/29/kantei-3-hamon-boshi-1/) I am liking Rohans and Kirills opinion about Yamato vibe.1 point
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I just realized I had taken that picture over 5 years ago. Honestly I don't know what the lines are, I have just thought it is more visible portion of hada for some reason. I took few pictures just now, in this sword you can see the squiggly line is at the end of bit openish nagare hada portion. I remember in the first picture I posted I wanted to try to take picture of the good hada and not this lower portion. Metallurigical things are way out of my league but I do think it is possible that the rougher nagare parts that show up on few portions of this worn down sword are core steel, and the fine hada that is on the majority of the sword is the surface steel. I also took a picture now that shows few more squiggly lines closer to the tip. It may not show up in the pictures but the sword is extremely wide. I personally believe it is ō-suriage ōdachi and the hi is added on later. Unfortunately the bōshi is missing as the hamon runs off, so the kissaki has been much bigger in it's original form.1 point
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Sorry, I've been kind of guilty of this recently. I posted about an old sword magazine I found and also asked advice on a wakizashi which I ended up buying. Unfortunately, I haven't posted updates or photos of either yet because the end of year vacation has seen me on the move between various friends and relatives. As soon as I'm back home, I'll update those two threads with pictures.1 point
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When it comes to subjects that are relatively obscure (such as Japanese swords) and especially that involve languages you don't know, stay away from AI. At best, you'll have a correct answer that will take a lot of work to verify, and at worst, you'll have an incorrect answer you have no way to verify.1 point
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Sorry but pictures are really bad, Nothing can really be said on the hada, same for hamon. I dislike the Hi, they are not as the ones used in this period. From my friend’s book (Markus Sesko) Japanese sword smiths, there is no smith with this kanji (tsune) in Muromachi period. Usually, in post Oei period, smiths used nagamei. Exception are scarce and often the swords were dated.1 point
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Good question Jean. This pattern of the Type 95 is secured with a barrel nut where the sarute is located. On later patterns, they added a mekugi in the more traditional location. Nice looking Pattern1 Copper hilt type 95. For those who may not know, they made less than 7000 of this pattern, making them pretty rare. Best of luck with the sale, -Sam1 point
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dont listen to him, DONT strip that apart. the tsuka is deformed and the wood liner is most likey damaged. meaning re-assemble maybe troublesome, you dont need to see the nakago its a machine made blade. you dont need to run the risk of devaluing it evan more. the photos are good enough for this type of sword. i have sold plenty of type 95s on the NMB including the copper handles. you can see everything needed to sell1 point
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Jason, I believe this is representing a waterfall, with the vegetation and insect in the foreground. If you notice the top edge of the grooves have a slight curvature, like the water at the top of a waterfall as it passes over the ledge. The bottom has no such curves. Also, I think this is wet-location vegetation such as may grow in the mist of a waterfall.1 point
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My good friends, I know that we have been through some major conflicts on some other of my threads on this forum (oh let’s think, like my "Tsuba casting molds?" thread!). But when the end is in sight (come on God give me at least 10 to 15 years!), everything doesn’t matter anymore. Maybe a little too much philosophy! Oh well! This is a great forum. And I will continue to put forward my thoughts on subjects, no matter what kind of backlash I get. Hey, that is just me! Starting tomorrow, I will start taking digital pictures of my collection to start cataloging them! Onward and with respect!1 point
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I like frogs... But yes, often what is seen in museums includes the donated "trashy" pieces of a century ago. Most good pieces in museums derive from big, important (&knowledgeable) collectors of Japanese art in the early 1900s and there were not too many. Hamburg Museum has some great ones, as well as Oxford collection. Other museums too of course. But then there were also other collectors which focused on other Japanese or Asian works, but for the sake of completeness also had some Tosogu - these are often questionable items.1 point
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A cast copy of the Victoria & Albert Museum piece Posted July 23, 2022 [Bottom of page 3] found on ebay https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/334888119734 described as Kinai - not even close! PS. the $105 AU postage for such a small object added to the purchase price of $176 AU [which is with a $30 USD discount] seems a trifle expensive for an obviously cast piece, to me.1 point
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