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Found 30 results

  1. To (only) people who know what they're talking about: I am currently getting fittings together for my katana in shirasaya. I recently purchased a tsuba from the ebay seller Koushuya. This was after almost a year of searching for the tsuba that felt just right. I ended up going with this one, and I am very happy with the purchase. Apparently it's an antique from the Edo period. But I don't really care about that. I just really like how it looks.......makes me feel good. My first question: Should I leave this thing alone and fit it to my katana as is, or should I do something about the rust that looks like it might be eating away at the sukashi? My second question: If I should do something about the rust, what should I do/how should I do it? I don't want to damage/alter this thing (beyond necessarily removing rust) if I can help it. I really like it. Here are some pics:
  2. Hello to all. Long time collector of nihonto but new to teppo. I found this at an antique shop while on vacation in Tennessee. Thanks to some Facebook friends, I know the signature is Goshu Kunitomo Tayosuke Katsumasa. It also contains Niju makibari. Would really enjoy learning more about Tayosuke Katsumasa such as time period he worked, how he is viewed as a smith compared to other Smith's of the time. Any information is greatly appreciated! https://i.imgur.com/caJc0US.jpg https://i.imgur.com/3sjGU9d.jpg https://i.imgur.com/ahkZe9x.jpg https://i.imgur.com/Beft3Bg.jpg https://i.imgur.com/dn4vjjW.jpg
  3. Hi guys, I am looking for an original WW2-era Japanese leather Shin-Gunto 'combat' sword scabbard covering. The wooden saya it will go onto is 26" long, (66cm). The attachment ring is 3" down from the scabbard throat (7.62cm). So the cover would need to be slightly longer than this to fit properly. The cover doesn't need to be in perfect condition. Just looking for one that will display well. Also would like it to still have all or most of it's stitching intact. The tusba is an old Edo period solid iron piece, and is not cut out for a retaining strap. So no need for the cover to have the little brass snaps on it. Pics are from the auction. Just PM me here if you have one to sell or trade, or know someone who might. Thanks!
  4. Hi Everyone, I recently got an interesting yari off ebay but it is mounted in a tanto koshirae. It has very impressive lacquer work but the lacquer is cracking, has flaked off in places and it looks like at one point someone used a sharpie to blacken some missing spots that have now grown. I would love to get the yari out and see if it's signed but I am not sure that will ever happen since there does not seem to be a mekugi, it could be glued in, I am not sure. It is so delicate in places I am scared every time I handle it, is there anyone who could correctly get this restored or just stabilized that forum members know of? Maybe this is not the kind of thing that should be messed with at all and just preserved as best it can be as is. On a more general topic, has anyone seen yari mounted like this before? I remember reading somewhere that it was popular in the 1800's to repurpose mounts/mediocre blades to export. I would love opinions as to if this could this weird mounting style be a result of that or could it be a genuine mounting of something earlier? Thanks for your time and ideas. -J.G.
  5. Hi all, Not sure if a question like this even belongs here but while dreaming of well polished swords I saw this absolute rust bucket somewhere. I've got no experience whatsoever with neglected nihonto, so hopefully someone with more experience can help me out here. The shirasaya (is it??) looks very iffy, I've never seen it done like this. What is this? A 'fake' or something very unusual? The blade itself I also have no idea about. It might be genuine but it is in absolutely pitiful state. So even if this one were the real deal, would it even be possible to bring this back to a state where people would want to look at it? These pictures are unfortunately all I have. Best, Mark
  6. Hey there, I've recently received a wakizashi from my grandfather, which was previously "restored" in to a terrible state of being. I'm looking to try and restore at least the tsuka and saya myself, but a bunch of parts are simply missing. The kashira is not present, but the fuchi is, now I'm not sure I'd even be able to find a kashira to match the fuchi, but even so, I'd like to know what kind of design this even is, because while I like how it looks, I just can't figure out what it's supposed to be. The fuchi is slightly bent on the inside on one side as well, dunno how safe it would be to attempt to bend it back. It was quite a hassle removing it from the sword, as the guy who "restored" it had superglued all of it together. A few bonus images while I'm at it, it's where I got so far taking all of it apart: And what the sword looked like after that guy restored it some 30 odd years ago.
  7. I am trying to date this blade. I can't figure out which Kuniyuki made it. I am also trying to figure out if it is worth the money to do a full polish and mount. Please help. I am new on here so bare with me.
  8. I bought a blade with habaki, so I need to make everything else myself. Koshirae: I decided to make aikuchi with buffalo horn fittings with flower motif
  9. saved blade... sashikomi finishing. Blade was very rusty. I started my work with kongo-do Then I used next step stones after uchigumori-do I used hazuya and jizuya Send Your feedback, please.
  10. Dear NMB Members, my Name is Tim and I bought a Kogatana from the Edo period. Unfortunately I don't know the accurate year, but it is signed and I need help with the translation. Because of the polishing process or just the time the kanji are not that easy to see. I tried to reconstruct them, but I am not sure, if they are correct. In the photos you can see the blade from two diffrent angles and the kanji I reconstructed. Regretfully the third character is nearly completely gone. I would be happy about any thoughts and help with the translation, with best regards Tim
  11. Dear all, Here I am, in my never ending quest for spare parts related to menpo / hanpo. I still have a few hanpo in need of a throat guard. If you have this kind of spare part available for sale, please contact me by PM. Any type welcome. The tare must be old, genuine, and in decent condition. Thank you for your help.
  12. Hey all! Just joined as I saw that you're all a very active community and as I cannot read signatures so I thought I would ask for help with this particular wakizashi. It has a kikumon on the nakago and then a smith signature. I would love to be told any sort of information you guys can glean from the signature. Age, smith, apparent rarity would all be much appreciated. I've only recently started to acquire more nihonto for my collection of blades and I am now sitting at a little little over half a dozen nihonto of varying types. It has the original silver foil habaki and a shirasaya. If something special, it would be my first nihonto to choose for restoration to display mounts. Pictures below, feel free to ask for more and I can try to get more! Thanks very much! ~Chris
  13. Hello all, I am relatively new to collecting Type 95 IJA swords and, like others, have been looking for parts for a restore-able Type 95 Iron Tsuba sword for some time. I am looking for; 1. the sarute screw (NCO grooved variety) 2. the brass throat piece for the saya that screws into top of saya. Mine is a bodgey I think because it is just the brass top collar (no number) and does not have the brass throat piece that goes into the saya to be screwed in place. Failing obtaining the throat piece (above) I may have to buy a complete Type 95 saya if any exist at a reasonable price. Condition is not really important but the parts must be genuine. If I cant obtain these parts/replacements then I will seriously consider selling the sword and the broken saya (may/may not be genuine?) can go with it. Love to hear from you and thanks in advance. Rob
  14. Dear Fellow Collectors, Hope you are all good. Hoping to get some advice from you all about cleaning up a blade myself. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Japanese-samurai-sword-katana-with-koshirae-tsuka-tsuba-/123183169971?nma=true&si=RKKWZP2A9GTVpzekT9%252BbWeIMNak%253D&orig_cvip=true&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2557 I’ve been collecting nihonto, and nihonto books for a good long while, and I have employed professionals to do restoration work in the past numerous times, but I would very much like to try and clean (just clean, not restore, not polish) this sword and koshirae myself. I envision the following goals, and would gladly take advice from anyone who has knowledge of how to achieve these: Clean as much of the rust off of the blade as possible without damaging the jacket steel. —In my mind, sandpaper, wire brushes, steel wool, etc. are NOT options. Those options would certainly be quick, but they would potentially compromise the jacket steel and disfigure the blade. —I am hoping to find some advice about specific chemicals, oils or electrolytic processes, etc. that can be used in combination with “elbow grease”, to slowly work away the rust on the blade and fittings. Ideally these would be chemicals and oils that will not end up “acid etching” the blade in the process. —Electrolysis to remove the rust may not be possible because I don’t want to remove the rust from the nakago, and submerging the entire blade in order to remove the rust on the blade via electrolysis would probably result in that. Submerging it in part could be possible...? I will likely end up leaving the saya the way it is with the exception of cleaning up the kojiri as described above, and the koiguchi as described below. —Do you think I need to remove the kojiri to do this? It seems I would need to given the amount of rust it has picked up, but perhaps not. —I would appreciate any advice about removing the kojiri and reapplying it after cleaning, if people think that is necessary. I will likely keep the tsuka wrapped the way it is. I like the old worn look that it has, and I don’t want to try and do much with that. It looks like it is still tight and was well made at the time. Cleaning the menuki a bit would be nice but if they’re impossible to get out then I’m not going to fuss with it. I would appreciate any advice people would offer about cleaning up the tsuba. I don’t need it to sparkle or be shinsa worthy, but it would be nice if the details of it were a little less obscured. I suspect in this case that just a little bit of cleaning with the right polishing product and an appropriately thick rag would get me to the goal, but I have never really done anything like this myself so I don’t know what the best approach is. The habaki, koiguchi, fuchi, and kashira I think similarly to as the tsuba. I do not have any interest in trying to remove the kashira to clean it. As a point of clarity: I do not think of this blade as a project for the purposes of fixing it up and getting it ready for shinsa. I already have a Nidai Muramasa tanto (passed NTHK-NPO by Miyano, now in line for NBTHK shinsa) and a Ko-Gassan tachi (again, passed NTHK-NPO by Miyano, now being polished by Usuki sensei) so I have enough projects, and I know the difference between a Juyo candidate and a nice old blade that deserve to remain a nice old blade. From what I can see in the photos the seller provided, this is not a gem of a blade anyhow but it is nihonto. It is not a premium length, certainly made later than Shinto, maybe even Edo and maybe in the original koshirae, though I can’t quite tell if the tsuka has two holes in it or just some damage next to the mekugi. I can see a hint of notare in what little is visible of the hamon, obviously mumei, maybe a little bit of machi-okure, has been polished a few times in the past given the declining notch at the hamachi. The end goal here is to make the sword into a respectable but NOT mint condition, NOT shinsa worthy, example of an old working blade. I don’t want to make it into a museum piece here folks, I just want to honor it by getting it back into appreciable condition, preserve it further, and not have to spend thousands of dollars doing it. Any advice you might have to help me achieve this goal would be appreciated. Thank you! John A. Shea, MD
  15. Hey there, As I'm quite new in the nihonto world I require som advice regarding a wakizashi. Certificate: NTHK (Nihon Token Hozon Kai) Certificate date: 16/7-2017 Signed by: Chief Executive Officer Teiji Miyano Forge: TOMOYUKI Province: Bungo School: Takada Era: Muromachi Year: Bunei 1469-1486 Leaf style: Shinogi Zukuri Iorimune Kitae Itame Hamon: Suguha komaru gaeri Mekugi ana: 1 Full Length: 65.5cm Wakizashi: 63.5cm (sword) Nagasa: 43.5cm (cutting section on the blade) Sori: 1.1cm (curvature) Tsuka: 18cm (handle) It is offered at 1600 usd. I would be very grateful If there was anyone who could give there input. Thank very much. Lukas Gerdin
  16. This is a *very* indepth and informative thread on just how different lubricants, gun oils and other similar products perform for protecting metals. Worth a read and compare with your own experiences using some on swords. https://www.shootersforum.com/gun-cleaning/91566-results-gun-care-product-evaluation.html I thought the staining and corrosive tests were particularly relevant due to the different and delicate materials found in Japanese swords. Some of the more aggressive gun cleaning products and oils are good for cleaning martial arts swords but none of us would dream of using them on Nihonto.
  17. This sword was owned by my grandfather. The fuchi, kashira, tsuba and shito-dome are iron. The blade length is 22" to the mune-machi. There is no signature that I can see. Would this blade be appropriate for practicing Iado or katas? The wood tsuka core is cracked through the menuki-ana, and the ito and same are badly deteriorated. I want to use the existing menuki, fuchi and kashira to build a new tsuka, although I do feel kind of bad about unwrapping the old handle. Right now there is no way to secure the blade due to the crack in the old tsuka. I'm interested in any information about the origins of the blade and koshirae. Thank you very much!
  18. 1 old 14th Century Japanese Samurai sword available. There are 4 holes in the nakago. The kissaki was just as rusty as the rest of the front portion of the sword before it was worked on. And a healthy boshi was revealed. So rust removal was successful in this area. The rest hasn't been worked on yet. I just paid to have the boshi proven. This sword is priced so that once you put in your time polishing, there is good money to be made when selling it. This is a good sword for an amateur or professional polisher. The blade measures 24 13/16" (63 cm) from blade tip to notch in the blade spine. This sword has a brand new, $400 Japanese-made shirasaya. $1600 --Matt Brice
  19. Yves55

    Waves

    I hate to touch old (?) pieces, but the back side of this tsuba may need some restoration... What do you think? For me it's like a black lacquer. Any suggestions? 82 x 74 x 3,5 mm - iron - 138 gr.
  20. Southeast Japanese Sword Show & Auction February 9-12, 2017 Tampa Airport Marriott Hotel SHOW SCHEDULE Thursday, February 9, 2017 Exhibitor Setup & Trade 5:00 pm - 10:00 pm Friday, February 10, 2017 Exhibitor Setup ONLY 8:30 am - 10:00 General Admission 10:00 - 10:00 pm Live Auction 7:00 pm Saturday, February 11, 2017 General Admission 9:00 am - 10:00 pm Dealers’ Dinner 6:00 pm - 7:30 pm Sunday, February 12, 2017 General Admission 9:00 am - 4:00 pm Please, see attached Poster and sign-up form. Bill Green 904-347-3144
  21. Hello All Looking for some advice on where to find replacement screws for ishizuke (Chape-tip) (model 44-blackish color), need one screw here, and one for Kuchi-Gane (throat) have no ideas where to even start as far as size etc (maybe .5MM???) Also need a couple of screws for am early war shin-gunto (the type with open cast patina covered Tsuba and the fairly standard OD green Saya. Any ideas on where to look? Thanks
  22. Hello All, Well, I guess I am another one of the inheritors, I picked up a Gunto last month while cleaning my Moms estate, both in a box that said give/throw away! My mom (age 94) said it was just junk that my uncle had brought back after VJ. I think it is a type 98 (or so my wobbly research would indicate) with all mounting etc. My brother painted the saya (arghhhh) to dress up as soldier in a school play. I never really noticed it, but regardless of value, my uncle did take the sword on Saipan, while serving as an Army tank crew commander. I then got the fever and bought a second unmounted blade at a local Gun show, probably just got hit by a Chinese stealth weapon, as I guess it is their intent to subvert and remove all the joy for imperialist new collectors. There is picture attached which I think is the Type 98 gunto no marking on nakago, and the tang seems like it was either cut or intentionally made short. Conversely, my gun-show unmounted blade seems noticeably heavier, and noticeably thicker right at the top notch point. The owner said the unmounted blade might have been Naval, but he was not for sure. I realize the script maybe important and tell me meeeahh, the sword is worth nothing or maybe something, I will get that checked later. If it turns out to be of little of no value I hope to make it into a restoration project anyway. Hence the following questions: My most immediate question is why the nakago (tang) lengths (measured from base of Habaki to the tip of tang) are so different? The one taken from my mother's home measures about 14 cm and the gun show 100 dollar wonder measurements from base of Habaki to tail is just under 20cm. Was there a standard tang length? My mounted Gunto has an almost straight cut at the end of the tang, and the blade itself has some what of a gentle curve, whilst the unmounted one has a pronounced long skinny tapper to it tang? Lastly are all meguki whole locations somewhat different?
  23. A couple weeks ago i received my first blade,a meiji mumei bare tanto in deplorable conditions with a lot of active rust.First i made a shirasaya(very weird looking )Then ,after some cleaning i managed to remove the red rust and 'partially' make it shine.The problem is that it has some big black stains along the blade that doesn't come off(Under light they look red/dark brown)Any ideas of how to remove them? Thanks -Jose
  24. Hello, Interesting in purchasing a Naval Japanese Gunto 1938-1944 in decent condition in the $900-1500 US dollar range. Also interested in Gunto blades in "rougher" shape for restoration projects as well $150-500 U.S. range I can be reached on the board, or at my email Jshawk66@gmail.com Thanks All
  25. After trying many forums and discussion boards I have decided to sell this sword. Translated Nakago-Izumo No Kami Fujiwara Yoshitake Shinto Smith Overall length is 31 1/2" Nagasa 23 1/2" Tsuka 8" Saya has several chips and a 3" X 1/2" strip of Laquer missing ne'er the Koiguchi which is also missing Kuri-Kata is intact There is a slot for a Kogatana but it is not present I will send you any pictures and help in any way I can $2000 + Shipping
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