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Found 13 results

  1. Hi everyone! I've just joined recently but I've been lurking about for about a month and have a few questions about polishing that I'd like to get others' points of view on. Feel free to add to/correct anything I have here, I've been admiring nihonto from afar for a long time now but only recently started actually learning about it, so it is what it is. First - everything I've been reading about polishing has an introduction that can be summarized as "don't you dare do it you're going to ruin EVERYTHING you absolute nincompoop", so I'm going into it with the expectation that no matter how careful I am, something will go wrong. Now that that's out the way - I've bought a few whetstones that are 3000/8000 grit and a nagura that's 8000 (assuming these are Japanese grit #s so I err on the safe side), and I have no intention of doing any reshaping. I know I can't be trusted with that, so it's going to be straight polishing to minimize risk. What I haven't done yet is buy the oil/supplies to finish it with. I've read Choji oil is what I need, but I'm wondering if there's a favored company to get it from, and what best to apply it with? Next, I have four blades total. Three of them are unmarked, unpolished (combat-polished?) "mystery swords" that I picked up fairly inexpensively (they may be awesome! they may be junk!), and one is a signed blade from WWII with the Seki blossom mark. Because I trust the guides and am assuming something will go wrong - and because I don't want to risk ruining one of the blades I bought to keep, be they trash or treasure - I'm tempted to buy a new blade. I was thinking of the cheaper, likely-machined WWII-era army/police swords that are always up on eBay for $200-$300 so that worst case I basically can't "ruin" it, and best case I make it a decent-looking sharpy-shiny and I have a chance of just reselling it and getting that money back. What does everyone think? I can't think of anything else to practice with that has naki, and I figure at least getting used the overall curved shape is better than nothing, but I'm very open to suggestions.
  2. Hey everyone, Its been bright and sunny today, so I decided to go out and try my hand at photographing a new blade of mine with the limited camera and skills I have. I was able to capture its hamon very faintly, but of course the picture quality is low. However, I think I got enough to maybe see what you all think of it. The blade is a wakizashi coming in at a nagasa of 14 3/4" with 1/2" sori which seems pretty standard. However, what isn't standard is the rather wild hamon that goes all over the place. It is in a poor state of polish and fairly faint, but visible for most of the nagasa. I'll let the pictures do the rest of the talking. Opinions? Anyone have an idea of school, age, etc.? Again, my apologies for the poor camera quality!
  3. I know a polish can be ruined from frequent drawing and sheathing, but does it ever fade out by itself? Thanks, James J
  4. Sansei

    Legacy Needs Help

    My Nisei dad and mom received this gift from her father when they were married in Japan after WW2. My grandfather was sensei and had his own kendo dojo. We lived in Japan for 2 years in the early 1960’s when my dad was stationed in Korea with the 25th infantry division. I was in junior high school at that time. We visited my grandfather during the summers and he came to visit us in Tokyo several times. The katana was kept at my uncle’s home in Hawaii down in their garage. What you see in the pictures is it’s condition after my dad retrieved it in the 1980’s. Termites destroyed the wood Saya and the Tsuka is what’s left. My mom is now 92 and we are thinking about what to do with the katana. I think we would like to try and bring it back to the condition it was; when it was gifted. We would like to find out how to do this and what it would cost. I believe we will keep the legacy in the family. Comments and any other thoughts would be appreciated. I am not well informed on these matters. We have two other katana. One that my dad won in a kendo tournament in Hawaii when he was in high school. Another that my dad brought back from the Philippines. He was stationed there in MIS under General MacArthur during WW2. These are still in excellent condition as they were always kept here. Thanks. - RayM
  5. Greetings, Pictured are two Nihonto. As you can see, the polish on the mune at the kissaki has a "dull" or frosted finish that runs about 5 1/2 cm on the mune from the tip of the kissaki towards the mune-machi. What, if any, purpose does this have? The only thing I've heard is that this type of polish is for Tameshigiri to give a visual reference to be at the proper distance to the target. Any other ideas?
  6. I bought a blade with habaki, so I need to make everything else myself. Koshirae: I decided to make aikuchi with buffalo horn fittings with flower motif
  7. saved blade... sashikomi finishing. Blade was very rusty. I started my work with kongo-do Then I used next step stones after uchigumori-do I used hazuya and jizuya Send Your feedback, please.
  8. Hello, I have two blades which would need a polish. But from commercial point of view, it makes no sense to ship to Japan. Therefore I want to ask you if somebody has ever dealt with Martin Hornak from Slovakia (http://www.nihontotogishi.com/). I found him on FB. Of course I am in contact with him via email and we are in discussion, but he is not responding on regulary basis my emails... Therefore I am not sure... On his HP he did not state to be traditional trained Togishi, but in email he said that this master is Joji Tamaki sensei from Kyoto?! What do you think? Many thanks for any comment in advance.
  9. 1 old 14th Century Japanese Samurai sword available. There are 4 holes in the nakago. The kissaki was just as rusty as the rest of the front portion of the sword before it was worked on. And a healthy boshi was revealed. So rust removal was successful in this area. The rest hasn't been worked on yet. I just paid to have the boshi proven. This sword is priced so that once you put in your time polishing, there is good money to be made when selling it. This is a good sword for an amateur or professional polisher. The blade measures 24 13/16" (63 cm) from blade tip to notch in the blade spine. This sword has a brand new, $400 Japanese-made shirasaya. $1600 --Matt Brice
  10. A couple weeks ago i received my first blade,a meiji mumei bare tanto in deplorable conditions with a lot of active rust.First i made a shirasaya(very weird looking )Then ,after some cleaning i managed to remove the red rust and 'partially' make it shine.The problem is that it has some big black stains along the blade that doesn't come off(Under light they look red/dark brown)Any ideas of how to remove them? Thanks -Jose
  11. Hello everybody i am from Holland and hoped that somebody could give me some info about a short antique wakizashi? I like to get some info if it is possible about who made the sword? And when is it made? And what kind of crazywild hamon is this? A while ago i bought an old short wakizashi with a nice old and signed tang onthe sword. The total length is 51 cm. The cuttig edge is 38,5 cm The edge thicknes is 0,6 cm. And the edge widenes is 2,7 cm. My friend is polishing swords for some years now and i brought him the blade to show his polishing skills. After a week he phoned me up and told me that it might be a n important blade because he had never seen such a wild and misty kristal hamon in his life. He did not know what kind of hamon this was. So maybe someone can tell me something about this mystery blade? The seller thought it might be made around 1500 and he called it a Magoroku blade or signature. I did not understand it very well that's why i am asking the expert here. Thanks for everyone who wants to help me out!!
  12. Hi,lets say i have a blade in very bad shape,extremely rusted,so my question is:would it be better to leave it like that,or take out the rust by force? I don't care about looks,i could always take it to a polisher someday,but i want to get rid of rust to prevent it from spreading,what do you recommend me to do? How could i start the proccess? Is there any way to remove the rust without ussing abrassive tools? I heard somewhere that wrapping the sword with a cloth with some oil and leaving it rest for a few days will weaken the rust so it could be removed,does that work? The picture attached is taken from the internet,my blade shape is similar to that one's Cheers Josh
  13. Hello members of the Nihonto Message Board. I've been looking at the following sword, for sale on ebay: http://www.ebay.com/itm/291374956517?_trksid=p2060778.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT As I see it, the pros are that it is a signed (suriage) koto blade from a known maker of the ko-Uda school, assuming that the seller has attributed it to the correct Uda Kunitomo. The cons are that the rust is obscuring most of the blade's features, including any flaws that polishing might reveal. While I think it would be rewarding to get the blade polished, mounted in shirasaya, and sent off to shinsa I want to make sure that I'm not romanticizing the results of buying a cheap blade in crap condition off of ebay. I would appreciate if you guys could not only give me advice, but also talk me through the reasons for the advice so I can understand what you're considering or seeing that I haven't had the experience for yet. Also, I understand that daito polish, shirasaya, and new habaki are quite expensive. If I bought this, the goal would be to have it ready for NTHK shinsa this summer- is that a reasonable timeline for the polish/remounting process? Thank you for the advice.
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