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The long top drawer is made of solid mahogany with a mahogany veneer base—I built it like I was making a humidor, and with two-way humidity control packs, I hope to be able to keep koshirae at a pretty constant 49% humidity.  

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The little drawer on top holds origami, and has a sliding tray for small accessories...

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On the bottom drawer, the face plate is hinged and swings open to reveal a keypad:

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Foam interior replaced with birch ply, and sword racks out of basswood.  A Gunsaver dehydrator bar is mounted between the two racks.  

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That is absolutely beautiful, the joinery is superb. If you were to make a business out of these you would never be out of work......

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This is very impressive, kudos. I can imagine your joy building such a beauty. Definitely something to be proud of !

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Yes indeed!  Quite a piece of furniture, it will add to the pleasure you get from viewing swords every time.

 

All the best.

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This is spectacular. Let me know if you decide to start producing these!

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I think you should write the combination here in this thread, just in case you forget it of course! :ph34r:

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I am in absolute awe of your skill. Incredible work congratulations. Also glad to see you have space for more swords

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Inspired now. Going to see if I can draft up plans for something similar.
Working on a non-Nihonto display coffee table currently and it it turns out half decent, may look at this idea.

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That's damn impressive, Richard! Well thought out & designed.  :clap:

 

Just remember that thieves who see your locking machanism can just walk away with the entire katanadansu. Bolt to something solid.

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I especially like the idea of the gun safe being the internals. From where did you get the metal fittings? John

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I just want to repeat what was said above- WOW WOW WOW. Thank you so much for sharing. If you are starting a list of potential buyers add me to it, I would even be willing to take this prototype ( ha ha )

  MikeR 

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A very lovely thing. Great choice of wood which must have been hell to work. :thumbsup:

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The gunsafe came with a little led light set in the inside of the drawer face, but I removed it and installed different lighting.  I used a diffuser filter and amber light gels to tint the light a nice candlelight color:

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On the underside of the gunsafe’s lid, right at the mouth of the drawer, there is a 1/4” metal flange set at 90 degrees that I drilled through.  I attached an aluminum led light strip bar (https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/aluminum-channels/micro-alu-led-strip-channel-universal/2039/)by drilling and tapping the bar laterally to accept #4-40 socket head screws.  Three screws hold the whole assembly in place, and I don’t lose any more headspace than the flange was already taking up:

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11 hours ago, PNSSHOGUN said:

the joinery is superb

Perhaps until you look behind the curtain—then:  buh buh BUMMM....

Nothing but butt-joints & brackets.

(The brackets have been countersunk with a router so as to avoid tangling up the drawers, but that was my only concession to professionalism.  All you need to build this box is a table saw and a router.  And a drill press helps.)

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30 minutes ago, Shugyosha said:

Great choice of wood which must have been hell to work. 

Not hell at all—I don’t have any veneer bags, or an air pump or anything.  I just cut the veneer, taped it to some MDF and rolled heat-activated veneer glue on both it and the plywood substrate.  After a few hours, a second coat to each.  The glue dries to a firm, plastic-y consistency.  Then you mate the pieces and iron them with a clothes iron.  
https://www.veneersupplies.com/products/Better-Bond-Heat-Lock-Veneer-Glue.html

Cost of entry is so low that if you have any interest at all in veneering, there’s no reason not to get a bottle of heat-activated glue (and a roller, and a veneer saw) and give it a go...

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