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Shugyosha

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Everything posted by Shugyosha

  1. Ron, You probably don’t want to leave your contact details on the open forum. There are bad guys looking for stuff like this.
  2. Hi Durrell, Kanekage. 19th year of Showa (1944) The month is obscure though.
  3. Hi Corry, Sorry I missed the part about a black line indicating an oil quenched blade. It certainly can, but in your blade I believe I can see nie along that line which don't form with an oil quenched blade and also I think I can see a bright line of nioi running up to it. Is the dark line limited to what is shown in the picture? I would expect it to have formed elsewhere along the hamon and on both sides of the blade if oil quenched, however, I'm not sure what that dark line is, but my feeling is that it isn't oil quenched. The scabbard is actually lacquered rather than ray skin - the lacquer has been stippled? to form that rugged effect.
  4. As regards the tsuba, it's possible that this isn't an original part of the fittings then. Some enterprising dealers will swap out an attractive tsuba to sell separately and replace it with something they have hanging around. I'd not mess with the leather scabbard cover then as removing it might damage what's underneath.
  5. Hi Torvald, I don't think that it's oil quenched as it isn't a war-time blade. There is some activity in the metal which is evidence of it being a folded blade, though this isn't very prominent and that might point to it being a shinshinto blade - so late 1700's to the Meiji restoration (1863) maybe earlier than that based on the colour of the patina on the tang. Most older blades are a "put together" in the sense that they don't come in their original fittings as these tended to get damaged and wear out over time and so got replaced as required. Looking at the butt end of the tang, this looks like it might have been messed with to make the sword fit the hilt rather than the hilt being made for the blade but that doesn't look like it was done recently. The usual tell for this is multiple holes in the tang and hilt. How does everything fit? If the scabbard is tight but not excessively so and there's no rattling with the tsuba then the chances are the blade and fittings were intended to go together. The washers are used to adjust the fit and most swords have them to fine-tune the spacing of the tsuba, habaki and hilt. Anyhow, there's nothing to suggest that the hilt guard and metalwork on the hilt aren't of a similar period to the blade - they aren't modern. Have you tried to take the leather cover off the scabbard? That might have been fitted for WW2 but there may be a lacquered wood scabbard underneath.
  6. I'd go gold. I think they will stand out amidst the gun smoke better and increase your chances of your daimyo rewarding you with a larger feoff.
  7. ‘Cos it’s hard to kantei a drawing? Even good photographs leave me for dead.
  8. I must admit my first thoughts on no.5 were that it’s a “mod bod”. There’s enough re-enactors and some war bow shooters in the UK for it to be a bodkin replica.
  9. Hi Matthew, Maybe Kawada Iichiro - there might be other readings. Something about the way this is written makes me think it’s not a genuine Japanese sword so think twice if you’re looking at buying. If you’ve bought already, I hope I’m wrong.
  10. I think you may have the guard on upside down. Shouldn’t the quillion? Stop an opponents blade from contacting the sword arm? As it is, it will ride over it. Looks like an older blade with a Bizen style nakago jiri though.
  11. The hada doesn’t look refined enough for the real deal to me. The layers seem too thick and it’s neither true ayasugi hada nor masame hada. It just doesn’t quite fit quality wise for the event it is supposed to commemorate and the person that we are told commissioned it. http://www.aoijapan.com/img/sword/2014/14615-1.jpg
  12. What Ian and Jean said: better quality and less elaborate. Maybe something like - http://www.touken-matsumoto.jp/en/product/shousai/FU-1927 Or this set is a little more refined: http://www.touken-matsumoto.jp/en/product/shousai/FU-1701
  13. This article on Nihonto.com discusses signatures on kazu uchi mono under the sue Bizen section. https://www.nihonto.com/a-brief-study-of-bizen-blades-of-the-muromachi-era/
  14. There may or may not be some significance to the choice of Bizen or Bishu and the syntax:
  15. 16th year but don’t know what it means in the context of “Jumyo”. Am I the only one who thinks the yasurimei and signature are odd? I’m on my phone so I’m not getting details of the blade. The tang doesn’t look authentic to me but I’m happy to be shouted down.
  16. I think Nara Terumasa plus kao. Haynes H 09589.0. Working around 1838 “mostly did nanako work for the Ishiguro family”.
  17. Mutsu no kami Fujiwara Kanenobu 3 smiths signing this way in the second half of the 17th century. interesting set of fittings - well worth the time and money for the package.
  18. Hi Barrett, The blade is 700 or so years old and so won’t be in its original condition but the quality of workmanship and state of preservation have been judged good enough to pass Juyo shinsa.
  19. Edited to remove comment. Bob is right in his post above.
  20. I’m conflicted on this one as different features take me in different directions. Going with Sue Tegai. At least until I change my mind again.
  21. Hi Eric, Any chance of a clearer picture of any detail in the boshi?
  22. Hi Geoff, The safest thing to say is that your collecting goals will evolve in line with your taste and that this tends to be a function of increased knowledge and experience. If you can focus on getting an idea of what amounts to good quality items in whatever area you start off in and pursue purchases accordingly, you'll lose little money and hopefully make a profit if you decide to sell them and move into a different line. Patience and self-restraint are useful qualities if, like most people, funds are not unlimited as it's easy to buy a number of average items rather than a couple of good quality pieces. At the moment I have a bunch of stuff that I feel I've outgrown; the thing that is stopping me from selling these items is knowing where to put the money next, so I'm trying to be patient.
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