ROKUJURO

Ryan, I can read YOSHINAGA, but it was easier to read if you could show the photos in the right position (= tip up). There were several smiths with the name YOSHINAGA, so to tell you more we would need close-up photos of all details (without HABAKI) like HAMON, HADA and full-size photos of the blade. Exact dimensions may also help. One YOSHINAGA worked in the 14th century, but age is less important in Japanese swords than quality and condition, and signatures are not always (or should I say, seldom) genuine.....

Kevin, it is not really safe to judge by photos, but I suspect (left photo, from left to right) No. 2 and 3 and the rightmost are late copies. Right photo: No. 2 and the one rightmost do not look genuine to me. I have seen (and had) a number of YAJIRI, and the authentical Japanese ones were almost always finely and carefully crafted. Their tang is quite finely forged and evenly filed down to a level and smooth surface. As Ian wrote correctly, the copies sometimes have no 'neck' between blade and tang, while their Japanese 'models' do show that feature. This round 'neck' with almost the same diameter as the shaft is an important feature in arrows as the YAJIRI can only penetrate armour and bodies properly, if the impact of the arrow-tip is securely supported and transferred to the shaft. In direct comparison, European arrow-tips are visibly less carefully made (while no less lethal) and were mainly disposable items. The common socket arrow-tip model for warfare was forged in 2 to 3 minutes a piece and often used without additional filing and finishing. But I have to confess that I have not seen hundreds of YAJIRI, so it could well be that there are also mass produced ones which were less carefully made. However, the patina of the arrow's NAKAGO might also be a good indicator for its age (and authenticity).

Richard, I think that could have been caused by erasing a signature, if not done properly.

I like pigs without lipstick better!

Ryan, please sign all posts with your first name plus an initial as is requested here. I suggest that you don't invest any time or money into this one. The metal SAYA is not Japanese - not from the looks nor from the material. Original SAYA are made from HOO wood (magnolia) and lacquer (URUSHI). Better blades are available, but are made individually with differing length, width, thickness and curvature. Prices for late handmade ones ("naked") may start at about $ 1.500.--, if you are very lucky. The chances to find a fitting blade to an existing SAYA are generally slim. If you care to have a look at the many pictures of genuine Japanese swords available here on NMB, you may get an idea about the looks of a Japanese sword.

I meant the sloop Jon (M)B: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HW5yLvoJMD4

Perhaps SAGAMI no KAMI FUJIWARA YASUYUKI. Compare: http://www.sanmei.com/contents/en-us/p1636.html) P.S. It is a good idea to pass these warm days on a sloop....

Isn't that SHOAMI written on the box? Can't read the rest.

Dave, that has to do with the shafts used. It is aquestion of suited bamboo availability.

Kevin; some of yours look to be not Japanese, but I am looking only at photos.... .

Ryan, it is only a simple Chinese product of phantasy, but you should know that Japanese swords are never cleaned in a DIY manner. Before you start, read a lot about real Japanese swords, about patina versus tarnish, about the art of polishing a blade, about 'paint' on a SAYA. Your feeling about a sword being 'clean' and shiny may be different from the way the Japanese see it. By the way, Japanese swords are never made of Damascus looking steel.

....Recently I have come across some interesting examples, which might be good to post here..... Yes please, Piers! I am always interested to see them. I only have a few; as you mention correctly, they are quite expensive. I am very interested to learn about the differences between iron and steel items.

A misunderstanding of O(UCH)-SURIAGE? Why destroy a star stamped GENDAITO?

Well, the 'all-purpose' blade seems close to a YOROI-DOSHI with a thickness of 9 mm, but it may just be a very stout TANTO. The little I can see of the HAMON lets me assume it could be a MINO province blade. The simple KOSHIRAE looks late, but good. The lacquer of the SAYA seems to contain chopped straw (looks sometimes like copper) and perhaps mother of pearl (RADEN) or Abalone (AOGAI). All in all a nice package from late EDO period, I think.

I read MASATOMO

Flying Robert - YouTube Sorry, could not resist....

Robert, ask one of these: http://swordsofjapan.com/home/contact/ https://yuhindo.com/ yakiba1@yahoo.com http://www.japaneseswordbooksandtsuba.com/ Appraisals are issued by organizations like NBTHK in Japan

YAGYU motive, but I can't read the MEI. Quality or authenticity are difficult to judge from the photos.

Have signed in as well.

Welcome to the NMB Björn! I hope everything goes well with your permit and the sword! What kind of KATANA have you got? We are always interested to see pictures, and we help newbies with advice before they buy! Be sure to sign all posts with your first name plus an initial so we can address you properly. You can add your signature to your profile.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2JoCE0kWNEU

Pietro, congratulations!

Merci Jacques!

Stephen, you are right: lost to dream and lots to dream over as well!

http://www.shibuiswords.com/umetadaschool.htm https://yuhindo.com/umetada-tsuba/ The iron part of your TSUBA looks early to middle EDO period to me, but this is only my impression from the photos and not an expertise. Of course there is a way to have a SHINSA team issue papers for it. Glen, you can add your signature to your profile, so it appears automatically with every post.