.....The plate does exhibit this very nice gradual and uniform thinning from the rim in towards the center, which I imagine was not easy to do.) Michael, while good iron TSUBA are indeed not so easy to make, as design and craftsmanship have to be on a high level, giving the plate an even or tapering thickness is not so difficult!
Usually HEIANJO inlays are brass/SHINCHU, but I have seen some TSUBA with a few copper inlays as well. This is the first for me that seems to have copper only.
Barry,
in principle, yes, but it seems that we have here a well homogenized iron, so the patination process does not reveal a crystalline or other structure as we might see in MOKUME TSUBA. The nature of TEKKOTSU is perhaps not what we are thinking it might be - I am working on that. TSUBA are not hardened like sword blades and thus we should not expect Martensite particles to protrude from the surface.
This kind of matte surface is probably caused by pickling/etching, a normal finishing process. All features speak for a nicely and competently handcrafted item, but indeed it lacks the vivid expression of some older TSUBA in NOBUIE style. I like it and I think it is a good find!
Chris,
for me a GIMEI price reflects the facts. Seller and buyer know what they are talking about.
In this case the photos do not allow for an estimation, but generally I think you are not too far, considering the whole package with a cut-off shaft.
Chuck, there are so many fake signatures, and the few authentic ones are so expensive, that I remind you to buy the blade, not the signature! If the blade has no major faults and is nice to look at, why not keep it as a study piece? Always depending on the price-tag, of course! A GI-MEI item should have a GI-MEI price!
Thank you, Pete! I always get that mixed up! Is there something typical on this KOZUKA that would allow an assignment to the style of a certain school? Iron KOZUKA are probably not that common.
Tony, as Ford explained, the TSUBA body is cast, but many of these TSUBA were finished by hand. In a high quality SHINCHU TSUBA, there is no other way. Of course, some of the items shown above may have been made completely by casting, and received very little work afterwards.
Gentlemen, recently I bought a KOZUKA decorated with - what I think is - fern sprouts and horsetail. I would like to read your opinions as to the meaning of this and if possible a school or maker. The KOZUKA is signed on the OMOTE but there is almost nothing left of the MEI Thank you in advance!
Gentlemen, a new TSUBA in my collection. Condition is not so good, but I am curious to know the school and period it was made. Motive seems to be Zodiac and stars constellation. Dimensions: 80 x 76 mm, thickness 4,3 mm (MIMI). Thank you in advance for your opinion!
I can understand that, but those are factory made items which probably could be replaced in case they are destroyed (if not too old).
Handmade Japanese swords are always one of a kind! It is the same with old ceramics.
Gentlemen, I use a non-expensive (Chinese) IAI-TO with a blunt steel blade. It is lightweight like an original and has a BOHI which allows for a nice TACHIKAZE. It is still dangerous enough to cause damage if you are careless, but this applies also to a heavy red oak BOKKEN. As we all know, this latter can be considered a deadly weapon. I don't feel so much the need to cut through something, but in that case I would simply use one of the better Chinese models. It is so easy to bend a blade in TAMESHIGIRI if you don't get the correct angle!