Grey Doffin

Hi Ron, This looks like it could be residue from the glue that held the label. I have used a liquid called Goo Gone, which I bought at a local hardware store. I used it first on a painted door with cellophane tape residue and there was no damage to the paint. I then tried it on a lacquer saya with glue or adhesive residue; the residue disappeared and there was no damage done. I would try it on just a tiny section 1st to see what happens. If it works you'll have to clean of the Goo Gone with a damp rag. Best of luck, Grey

Please post a closeup of the area of concern. Grey

Hi Ron, I think you would be smart to leave the saya be until you can show it to someone with loads of experience at lacquer restoration. Any attempt you make may be successful but, starting from zero experience as you are, it may also be a mistake you don't recognize until it is too late. I have long thought that some of us here on NMB are way too quick to suggest do-it-yourself repairs to beginning collectors. Restoration advice without having seen even one picture of the problem is a mistake. No offense meant towards Darrel; just looking out for the swords. Grey

Not to minimize the loss or make excuses for improper handling but don't you think a sturdier package was called for? This was shipped in a priority triangular tube made of standard strength cardboard, something I wouldn't trust for a sword across the state, let alone across an ocean. I always use stout cardboard tubes with secure plastic end caps for shipping my swords. Their being round means they are unlikely to have other packages stacked on top. Grey

Hi Matt, Unless the koshirae is something very special there is nothing to be gained from submitting for a new paper. Grey

Hi Joshua, Your sword is a very early fake, most likely from China and dating to the 50's or later, I think. Grey

Hi, name please, The sword is real and signed Bungo no Kuni no Ju Sadayuki. Resident of Bungo Province Sadayuki. Grey

Hi Tom, You would be very smart if you went slow on this; don't be in a hurry to get it to an "expert" who will polish it for $200 and tell you what you have. Nothing wrong with Boston MFA but, since Mr. Ogawa no longer works there, hard to know who you'll end up with and what knowledge he might have. As Brian said, wait for one of the members here to read the signature and then take time to learn a lot about Japanese swords before you do anything with this one. Here is a care and handling brochure you should read: https://nbthk-ab2.org/sword-characteristics/ Cheers, Grey

Nobutoshi, I think. Grey

Hi Tony, As soon as possible or even sooner, replace the mekugi. Without a mekugi the blade can fall out of the tsuka and badly damage its kissaki or your foot. Whittle a bamboo chopstick. Grey

It is my understanding that usps has halted priority and 1st class shipping to Australia (and Australia only, due to a lack of space on the few flights from here to there); priority express is still available. Just last week I sent a book to Oz by express post and I have had no indication that there will be any trouble other than the normal for pandemic times delay in getting the package out of the US. If I had tried to ship the book by regular priority it wouldn't have been accepted at the post office. Cheers, Grey

Hi Frank, Here is a link to a care and cleaning brochure you should read twice: https://nbthk-ab2.org/sword-characteristics/ Don't be in a hurry for a new polish; they are expensive and very easily damaged in the hands of someone without experience in handling the sword. The polish doesn't protect the sword; clean off the old cosmoline with some alcohol and a soft cloth and then apply a very light coat of machine oil to the surface (except for the tang) and all will be fine. Take some time to learn a lot more before you start throwing money at your sword. The more you know the happier you'll be with the results when you do have the work done. If you'd like someone you can ask a dozen questions at once with feel free to call. Grey 218-726-0395 central time

Hi Gareth, Please post a picture of the nakago (tang) against a dark background. Your camera is adjusting to the white background and we can see no detail on the nakago. Grey

Hi Ben, Tokubetsu Hozon it is and looks to be legit. Grey

Hi Tony, The book originally sold for $50 but then went out of print and won't be reprinted; the price went wild. There was a time when a copy in good condition would bring $500 or more but, Jim Dawson came out with his book: Swords of Imperial Japan 1868 - 1945 Cyclopedia Edition, and the price for Fuller & Gregory dropped. Last time I had a copy in stock I had it listed at $175 when it sold. Grey

Oops! My mistake. Grey

Hi Gabriella, The whole signature is Yanagawa Ju Hisakuni Saku: Resident of Yanagawa Hisakuni made. Your sword is signed on the side of the blade that was used, with a few exceptions, for early tachi form swords (before 1400) and the signature looks to be very much younger than that. As your sword doesn't fit with any of the exceptions I'm aware of, I suspect your sword's signature is bogus. Anybody out there have a better idea? Grey

Nick, Your question is much like the one asked of an older lady on the streets of New York by a young man with a violin case under his arm, "How do I get to Carnegie Hall." Her answer, "Study." What Barry wrote makes sense but there is so much more to it. Study. Grey

Hi Kenny, If you take your pictures on a dark background we'll be able to see details. As is, your camera is calibrating off the white background and the nakago is left in the dark. Grey

Hi John, I am a bit bothered that an iron tsuba that comes across as being of great age shows no evidence of having been mounted: no divots or copper inserts in the nakago-ana to adjust the fit or cushion the nakago from wear. Grey

Hi Jose, I believe this possibly was made as is or, more likely, fashioned from a broken sword tip with the horimono added, done shortly after WWII to sell to someone in the occupation as a trinket to take home. Grey

Hi Tor, Definitely not an oil quenched blade, I see no reason to suspect that the bottom of the tang has been messed with, no evidence either that the tsuba has been replaced (maybe it has but no way to know): no reason to call this anything but a samurai sword that was traditionally made sometime between the 16th and 19th centuries. Resist all urges to fix it in any way; leave any restoration to those with proper training. See if you can find someone with years worth of knowledge to look at it in hand, which is the only way you're likely to learn much more about the sword. Cheers, Grey

Hi Dave, Here is a care and etiquette brochure that will tell you, among the rest, how to remove and replace the handle: https://nbthk-ab2.org/sword-characteristics/ You and whoever will end up keeping the sword should read it twice. Cheers, Grey

This is a 100%, honest to God, true fake. Grey

Hi Jon, I can't see every character clearly but if the smith was true to his form it says, Noshu Seki no Ju Ni JU San Dai Fujiwara Kanefusa Kore wo Saku. Grey