Grey Doffin

Bishu Osafune Kiyo ? (tough to read upside down). Not a gunto; an earlier blade. Grey

Hi guys, Mark and I just took in a bunch of swords new to the market and a couple dozen kodogu also. If you're going to be here at the show be sure to stop by our tables for a peek. Going to be a very active show, I think. Grey

I think the koshirae is Meiji, if not later. The blade could be earlier. Grey

Hi Matthew, Here is a care and handling brochure you should read twice: https://nbthk-ab2.org/sword-characteristics/ scrool down. Best, Grey

Hi Gabe, If you do for yourself what you're asking us to do for you, not only will the answer be closer to your tastes but you'll learn a bunch in the process. Come up with 5 smiths you think you'll like and are approachable with your wallet; then run them past us here to see what we think. Grey

The signature does read Kuniyuki. Grey

Hi Brian, You can have new sharasaya made for your blades but you can't buy off the shelf shirasaya; each is custom made for the blade. However, cracks can be simply repaired if the repairer knows what he is up to and no one who doesn't know has tried already. Grey

Also, if the 2nd picture in your last post is the cut offs after they split post glue up, you shouldn't be seeing all that rice paste. A proper glue job is 2 pieces of wood in total contact with an invisible glue line, not 2 pieces of wood with a bunch of glue separating them. The joint you picture is doomed to fail even with the proper rice. Years ago at one of the Minneapolis shows Chris Bowen and Larry Klahn put on, I watched a Japanese saya-shi make shirasaya for a tanto. I was surprised to see him work almost entirely cross grain with a small knife, not along the grain with a bent handle paring chisel. Grey

And they will probably be on my table. Grey

Echizen Ju Kinai, I believe. Grey

Thank you both, George & Mark. Grey

Hi Guys, I have to tie another efu tachi and the link from Guido is defunct. Can anyone supply another that works now? Thanks, Grey

Hi Paz, No idea how much it would cost without knowing a lot more about the sword. Would not have to be sent to Japan. Don't know if it can be restored without knowing a lot more and, more to the point, don't know if it should be restored. Grey

Hi C.M. We need to see more and better pictures before any of us can tell you much about the sword: close ups of the tang, blade, point, and any of the mounts you have might help. The habaki, that gold colored collar near your index finger in the picture, might be better than average and might suggest the blade is worth a close look. Mean time, here is a link to a care and handling brochure you and your dad would be smart to read twice: https://nbthk-ab2.org/sword-characteristics/ Resist all urges to clean or fix the sword in any way; restoration should be left to those with proper training and amateur attempts often do serious damage (to both the sword and its value). Looking forward to seeing more. Grey

Hi Dave, I suspect a cast fake for your tsuba. The rest of the pieces are, most likely, real but real low quality and late. Unless someone else has a better idea. Grey

Hi Paul, The similarities in the tang and fuller are as meaningful as 2 cars being similar in that they both have 4 wheels: yes, but doesn't tell us much about the relative quality. Just noticed you're in Minnesota; what part of the state? I'm in Duluth. Grey

Hi Paul, Your sword is currently just barely katana length; it used to be an inch maybe longer but has been shortened. It looks like it has been improperly buffed; lines aren't sharp and hamon & hada (temper and grain) are indistinct. There are defects on the blade which seriously degrade the value. If I had to make a guess on age I'd say some time between the 16th and 19th centuries (not considered old for a Japanese sword) but I could be off on that. I don't think much more can be told without in-hand examination by someone knowledgeable. Grey

Hi Paul, This is an older blade, not WWII. More pictures are needed before anyone can tell you much more. Grey

Hi Paul, No active rust that requires attention; leave the tangs (nakago) alone. The bottom sword, the one with 2 holes, iis probably older and samurai, not WWII military. It is OK to replace the washers (seppa) if some are missing and the tsuba wiggles a lot. It is mandatory and important that you replace the missing bamboo pin (mekugi) and that you do it now. Without the pin the blade can fall out of the handle and do serious damage either to itself or to you (or maybe to both). Get a decent quality chop stick and whittle it to fit. Grey

Hi Brad, Not much I or anyone else can tell you about your unsigned wakizashi just from pictures; someone knowledgeable and honest will need to see it in hand . Meantime, here is a care and handling brochure you should read. https://nbthk-ab2.org/sword-characteristics/ Grey

Just like when a large tree falls in the forest, he will be missed. Grey

Hi Justin, The fist on fist method is illustrated in the brochure I linked you to. If that doesn't work, you can try this. Place a bath towel on a counter (see picture), lay the blade on the towel and, gently at first, bring the sword forward so the black horn fitting at the beginning of the handle strikes the edge of the counter. Increase force as necessary but keep an eye on the black horn; it is tough stuff but it can crack if you push too hard. This method works in all but the most stubborn of instances. Take it easy and stop trying if you're uncomfortable with the force you're using. Note: this method works with plain wooden handle (shirasaya), horn if you're careful, mounted blade with a plain iron tsuba, but not soft metal, which would be damaged. If you get the handle off, take pictures of both sides and replace the handle (using the method in the brochure) and the 2 piece pin. The pin is very important; it prevents the blade from falling out of the handle and breaking its point, either in the bottom of the scabbard or at the floor after it passes through your foot. Resist all urges to clean the tang of the sword; leave it alone. Resist all urges to try to fix anything with the sword; well meaning amateurs often do serious damage. Best, Grey

Hi Justin, The metal pin is 2 piece and either a friction fit (male & female halves) or threaded (either right or left hand thread). This could be fussy to take apart without doing damage. Where in The States do you live? Maybe we can put you in touch with someone who has dealt with one of these before. Mean time, here is a page with a care and handling brochure you would be smart to read: https://nbthk-ab2.org/sword-characteristics/ Looks like it could be a better than average sword. Go slow and get some educated help. Grey

Hi Jay, You asked "What helped you determine it predates WWII?" 40 years of study:-) Pictures aren't going to tell us a lot; this needs to be seen in hand by someone who knows what he's looking at. Grey

Hi Jay, Your sword is older than WWII, sometime between mid 15th and late 19th centuries and hard to say much more without better pictures. Where in The States do you live? Maybe there is someone knowledgeable and honest nearby who can give you a better idea what you have. It needs to be seen by a properly trained polisher before you decide to have it restored. Mean time, here is a page with a care & handling brochure you should read: https://nbthk-ab2.org/sword-characteristics/ Grey