Grey Doffin

Tadashige Saku (Akasaka) tsuba made from horse tack Cheers, Grey

Hi John, Every sword you care about needs a bag for storage. The bag prevents UV fading and deterioration of handle wrap and sageo, and protects the sword from dust and curious fingers of people who don't understand how to handle the sword. Padded bags protect lacquered sayas. Also, if a sword is picked up up-side down, it won't fall out of the saya to the floor if it is in a bag. Of course, if a sword is on display you don't want it in a bag but, for reasons stated above, maybe you don't want all of your swords on permanent display. Grey

$250. Grey

Hi again Matt, Here is the care and handling brochure I mentioned: https://nbthk-ab2.org/sword-characteristics/ Grey

Hi Matt, The symbols are called Mon, a Japanese family crest. Your sword is a traditional samurai sword, not a WWII military sword, and the fact that the same mon appears on both the scabbard and the handle piece (fuchi) tells us that care was taken in mounting the sword and it might be something worth attention. Resist all urges to fix anything you think is wrong with the sword; well meaning amateurs often do unwitting damage. Please leave repairs to the pros. Normally here I would post a link to a care and handling website but I have a new computer and have lost my bookmarks. Maybe someone else will post it for us. If you have other questions and would like to talk with someone, feel free to call sometime. I'd be glad to help. Best, Grey 218-726-0395 central time

Hi Mike, If you drill out the rivet be careful not to drill deeper than just the peened head of the rivet; you don't want to mess with the handle or, as mentioned, with the tang (nakago) of the blade. You could try also a small cold chisel on top of the washer followed by a punch to push the rivet out. However you go at it, it would help if the sword were held steady. This could be someone to hold all in place while you use the drill or chisel, or you could clamp the tsuba in a wooden jaw vise on a workbench (as long as the tsuba is plain iron without soft metal inlay). Plenty of padding between the sword parts and bench & vise are called for. Don't be in a hurry to have your sword polished. Polish isn't necessary to preserve the sword, a light coat of oil will do that, and the more time you take to learn about the swords and polishing the happier you will be with the results. Grey

From what I can see, I bet the blade is either the working end of a broken katana that has been partially reshaped to erase the yokote (division line at the point) or something made quickly at the same time as the mounts were made. I agree that it is probably glued into the handle and there is nothing to be gained by trying to remove it (and the handle may get broken if you try). Grey

In case any of you are interested, this is the sword: https://www.japaneseswordbooksandtsuba.com/store/swords/q551-katana-papered-monju-patriotic-saying Grey

Hi Alden, You will find Care and Cleaning here: https://nbthk-ab2.org/sword-characteristics/ which will tell you a lot about handling your sword. I wouldn't use Never Dull; it alters the surface appearance and you want to keep everything original at this point. Alcohol should remove the cosmoline and is the easiest to find. Any light machine oil will do fine for your blade; sewing machine oil for instance. Stephen's towel on a counter top method for removing the handle should work fine. Have an inch or 2 of the towel hanging over the edge so you don't damage the counter and lay the side of the sword without the spring clip on the towel. Draw the sword back and slide it forward, increasing force as needed until the blade starts to walk out of the handle. Other than removing the cosmoline, don't try to fix anything; well meaning amateurs often do unwitting damage. If your bamboo peg is damaged or brittle, replace it with a whittled chopstick. This pin is important as it locks the blade in the handle and prevents it from falling loose. Welcome to the club. Grey

Hi Joe, I haven't heard of waxing shirasaya. Doesn't mean it doesn't happen or shouldn't be done but it may not be very common. The wood of the shirasaya is as dry or moist as it wants to be in its environment and that will have no effect on the saya-gaki. UV in sunlight, however, will fade the saya-gaki. If you want to preserve the saya-gaki keep your sword in a sword bag, which is where all good Nihonto belong. If you want the shirasaya on display, maybe a good quality UV blocking glass should be in front of it. Grey

Hi guys, I'm trying to make sense of what is written on the nakago of a katana that will be for sale. Below are pix of the nakago and paper. I get Mumei (Monju) and then (Kiri Mei) but after that I'm lost. Appreciate any help. Thank you, Grey

Thank you Kyle. Grey

Hi guys, I've been struggling with this one (which will be for sale); help will be appreciated. Thank you, Grey

Another one quite similar to the 1st posted. Grey

Mumei Kaneharu, I believe. Grey

Hi Charles, It is easy to find tables of wood pH levels online; here is one: https://www.researchgate.net/figure/Acidity-of-different-wood-species_tbl1_281295854 Looks like maple and poplar are possibilities. Grey

Hi Ron, This looks like it could be residue from the glue that held the label. I have used a liquid called Goo Gone, which I bought at a local hardware store. I used it first on a painted door with cellophane tape residue and there was no damage to the paint. I then tried it on a lacquer saya with glue or adhesive residue; the residue disappeared and there was no damage done. I would try it on just a tiny section 1st to see what happens. If it works you'll have to clean of the Goo Gone with a damp rag. Best of luck, Grey

Please post a closeup of the area of concern. Grey

Hi Ron, I think you would be smart to leave the saya be until you can show it to someone with loads of experience at lacquer restoration. Any attempt you make may be successful but, starting from zero experience as you are, it may also be a mistake you don't recognize until it is too late. I have long thought that some of us here on NMB are way too quick to suggest do-it-yourself repairs to beginning collectors. Restoration advice without having seen even one picture of the problem is a mistake. No offense meant towards Darrel; just looking out for the swords. Grey

Not to minimize the loss or make excuses for improper handling but don't you think a sturdier package was called for? This was shipped in a priority triangular tube made of standard strength cardboard, something I wouldn't trust for a sword across the state, let alone across an ocean. I always use stout cardboard tubes with secure plastic end caps for shipping my swords. Their being round means they are unlikely to have other packages stacked on top. Grey

Hi Matt, Unless the koshirae is something very special there is nothing to be gained from submitting for a new paper. Grey

Hi Joshua, Your sword is a very early fake, most likely from China and dating to the 50's or later, I think. Grey

Hi, name please, The sword is real and signed Bungo no Kuni no Ju Sadayuki. Resident of Bungo Province Sadayuki. Grey

Hi Tom, You would be very smart if you went slow on this; don't be in a hurry to get it to an "expert" who will polish it for $200 and tell you what you have. Nothing wrong with Boston MFA but, since Mr. Ogawa no longer works there, hard to know who you'll end up with and what knowledge he might have. As Brian said, wait for one of the members here to read the signature and then take time to learn a lot about Japanese swords before you do anything with this one. Here is a care and handling brochure you should read: https://nbthk-ab2.org/sword-characteristics/ Cheers, Grey

Nobutoshi, I think. Grey