Babu

Gentlemen, the harmonised code starting 97 is an identifier. The Customs proceedure code 4000.200 related to antiques. These are the codes that need to be on the parcel. However I had already identified in another thread that certain companies within the UK will not handle swords regardless if age. So if the company that you use uses Parcelforce to complete it's journey in the UK it will be down to the individual as to whether they permit it's progress or not . Most likely they will not. You need to find a company partnered with either Royal mail,DHL or a company that handles the entire delivery door to door and accepts swords over 150 years old. Note that I've stated over 150 years, not the 100 your all refering to, which is what the postal service advised me to do . So put CPC 4000.200= antiques. Description "antique sword over 150 years old exempt from the offensive weapons act of 2015 and legal to import and export to the UK." Put it anywhere on the parcel near the label as a statement. Check your courier accepts antique swords. You should be fine. You could also contract a UK based company to collect the sword from the USA thereby eliminating Amy possible rejection. DHL accept swords and are also in the UK. Royal mail again probably can offer the service. Don't try Parcelforce.DPD,UPS (unless exporting). APC DHL Express DPD DX Group (including DX Freight) FedEx UK Interlink Express Parcelforce Worldwide Royal Mail TNT Express Tuffnells UK Mail Yodel Royal Mail UPS Ltd

Pm sent. Ray use CPC code 4000.200 Antique sword over 150 years old exempt from the offensive weapons act 2015 and legal to import and export from the UK.

It will be on next week. There's always opportunity on here to buy swords.

As a point of reference and I can only go by prices I've paid. You can but a signed wakizashi in full polish for about $1000 in very tidy mounts I've one myself for $1100 that I'll list next week When you come to sell it because it's flawless and in good condition and polish you should get your money back and maybe a bit more. Always look to buy at a price that if everything went wrong and you needed cash, you know you could sell the item in a hurry and get what you paid for it back. That's just common sense.

The blade has what appears to be a huge blister and is totally out of polish. Most Togoshi charge around £150 per inch to Polish. However it is extremely unlikely they will be able to remove flaws on a poorly forged blade like that huge blister . In fact they may even open up more flaws. I do not think I would part with that money for that sword. It's not the best way to spend your money but hey, it's your dollar, so you do what you like with it. When you come to sell it expect to lose serious money if your lucky enough to find someone interested in the sword.

You have your translation it's down to you now, this is part of the fun. Just asking for answers is not going to be an enjoyable way to research. Copy and paste this into a search engine sagami_no_kami fujiwara hiroshige. You don't have to find a naginata to research the smith he will have made swords.

Your mei has been filed away then any traces have been punched out of recognition. To be honest its not a bad job so your sword would get a result at shinsa but what that result will be is another matter. I like the shape and you must remember that people's opinions on the NMB are entirely based on photos. Opinions are just that and bear no real weight in light of a hands on appraisal by someone of knowledge. I've had such varying kantei on my own items it becomes clear even the very best intended opinion can cause you to make a poor decision because it may be totally wrong . Always find someone with knowledge and let them tell you what they see in hand before you make any determination . Regards Adam

I agree there is nominal value in the handachi fittings but the blades got some big deep flaws that I would walk away from if its more than $200-300 maximum. I would only buy it for the fittings not the blade but the saya has some real damages.

Look up on Google the third generation of this smith and your answer should be revealed. It's time for you to do a little bit of research yourself.

Am I right in assuming that during this period these were used by the woman not the men as its sleeker lighter dimensions suggest? Nice item I had an almost identical one in full polish

I don't think it's possible to confirm if it is made from tamahagane or not. Even if this Smith was given an allocation, that still would not confirm this particular blade was made from tamahagane as he would also have made and signed blades of non traditional construct. All you could possibly determine is if it was water or oil quenched. I'm No expert but logic occasionally kicks in.

Perhaps but the picture was taken by a photographer given unprecedented access to samurai with instructions to comply with his needs. Picture was taken in the late 1800's and is part of a national collection not noted as staged photography other than the usual ”stand here” direction. Whatever the case all is mere speculation as of this point for any suggested thumb wear.You will never know, so cannot say it is or indeed if it isn't.

I'm not seeing anything like toran. Looks more like a ko midare based on Suguba from your last few shots. Toran would cover a lot more blade. Can you show where you think you see predominantly Toran?

Yes I like the first one more than the katakirabori but thats just personal taste. The designs are sort of ideas really. They often are perfect replications but don't have to be. In your second example we can see this is as you say likely a Daisho set. However I always thought true Daisho sets were cohesive rather than identical??? I mean similar in theme or connected but not exactly the same.

Brian I've seen swords with the lemon juice treatment and they also look exactly like that. What I can guarantee is that we will never KNOW what caused it.

I didn't say polish it it said rub it continually with oil until all the staining has gone. It's fairly recent and not blood of a contemporary nature, as that eats right through tamahagane if left.If blood is not cleaned off in a short order the salts an other ingredients in the blood will cause a reaction with the metal ranging from discoloration of the finish short term, to deep pitting if left on the metal long term.

Not sure what the expected outcome was sorry. It looks like you need to rub the blade a lot with oil based kanahada to get that staining off. It's probably not destroyed the blade but it should be neutralised if possible first. If you have any windowlene or similar alkaline based cleaner put that on, then soapy water nice n hot to wash it all off. Dry it, get some wadding like cotton wool and Clove oil or kanahada, rub the blade continually until the dark disappears. Will require time and effort ....no shortcuts with wire wool or abrasives are recommended. Just good ol' elbow grease.

The only Smith in hawleys signing sagami no Kami is HIR 398 a low grade Smith, so the likelihood of a fake signature adding value this naginata is very remote. He was active around 1688 and was part of the shimohara group. He also signed Bushu Ju fujiwara 15 point Smith. However you will need to compare your mei to known papered examples if they exist. I'll offer no comments as to condition or what looks like Acid staining. Regards Adam

Your images are broken links Dale.

I think the kinko tsuba very different although the theme is similar yours does not have the bird of prey so any assumption that he had it in hand is just that. The tetsu link to another is very much closer and bearing in mind designs were often copied I think it similar. However values are always based on condition and yours needs some very real preservation Krys. I do like it a lot though. I hope the active rust has not left a depression although I feel it probably has. Let me know when you sell it 😉

I honestly don't find external images very useful. I cannot zoom into them on my phone as I can images submitted directly to the forum and in years to come as a reference point for study your images will not exist which is very frustrating. Can you perhaps add them directly to your post Bjorn? It looks like gunome midare to me. Hitatsura is open to interpretation but generally it will have tempering in the shinogi ji as well and on the jihada. This blade is hitatsura and has tempering martensite in the hi groove and onto the mune. Appreciate they are poor images but they should still serve to explain.

Yes I wouldn't say it was Hitatsura really it's not any hitatsura I've seen anyway. For me hitatsura covers a lot of the blade and the shinogi ji. It's all over the place ,ergo Hitatsura. Nice hamon though

It's a collaborative effort really . He collected designs as much as made his own. Some will be other people's ideas some his, all put into the books for a client to select. Sadly due to this you cannot definitely say that a piece referenced in the books is by him unless signed in Soshu script. Especially as in your example where it's not his mei in the book but another's. However your tsuba example could be missing that mei in the drawing because it's really close workmanship. Get that mei translated and your a step closer. These books were also passed on to other artisans for decades . Things were added at later stages.

Looks like it's loosely modelled on a bosun's whistle albeit very elaborate .

I'll take no 6 if it's available if not which one is left?