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Nobutaka

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About Nobutaka

  • Rank
    Chu Saku
  • Birthday 03/08/1955

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    Male
  • Location:
    UK

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  • Name
    Vaughan P.

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  1. I was wondering if anyone has had any issues dealing with UK Seller Ryujin Swords. I placed an online order with them in the last week of August this year. After waiting over a month I had only a small part of the order finally delivered and only one response to my emails. I hope there is nothing serious going on in this regard.
  2. Holding the blade in my hand, I'm struck by the yasurime; worn down. I'm also struck by the blackness of the patina on the nakago. If it were shinshinto, could what I see on the nakago be the product of only 250 or so years? Unfortunately, I'm not knowledgeable enough to answer my own question, let alone the evidence of the shape of the hamon and kissaki. I posted more high res photos of the nakago yesterday and hopefully others will have a better idea from them.
  3. Just added my signature. Sorry!
  4. Once again, thanks for your help and opinions - they are greatly appreciated. I had no idea this would generate such a lot of discussion. I've attached some better photos of the nakago ana's and habaki. One photo shows the obliterated mei, looks like a small rounded punch was used. As far as the width of the blade compared to that of the nakago, it has probably been polished a couple of times.
  5. I'm hugely indebted to everyone for their opinions - and glad it has been of interest. Here are the dimensions which I apologise for not including in my original post: Nagasa: 68.2 cm. Sori: 1.3 cm. Moto-haba: 30.5 mm.  Saki-haba: 22 mm. Moto-gasane: 6 mm+.  Saki-gasane: 4 mm. Nakago: 18.9 cm. Weight: 632 g. The polish is old but good. If it was gimei what would be the likely reasons for obliterating it?
  6. Here's some before/after photos of work that Ford has done for me over the years, for which I am eternally grateful. We are indeed lucky to have this world class artisan to help us. (I used Tamiya masking tape to firmly secure the kogatana in the kozuka, easy to use and easy to remove without leaving any residue).
  7. Hello everyone, I'd be grateful for any information or views about my O-kissaki katana. For example, is it likely koto or shinto, is it likely the mei was obliterated and the nakago shortened to make it seem like an o-suriage tachi? Thanks.
  8. Hi Justin, I found your thread and thought you might be interested to see my own Koto Gassan. It is signed 'Gassan saku' and has ayasugi hada as well. I acquired it in 2009 and purchased it from a Japanese dealer. I'll try to post a decent photo of the hada at a later date. Vaughan
  9. Thanks guys, I really appreciate your comments and I was especially interested in the brass plating instructions. I made sure that the copper strip I used for the machigane was firmly held by the sides of the habaki and I had to be careful not to jolt it before it was soldered, quite a nerve wracking couple of minutes. I put a couple of drops of Bakers soldering fluid into the join and put a piece of fluxed solder over the join inside the habaki and held it over one of the burners of the kitchen cooking stove. The solder used was Brownells Hi Force 44 which melts at about 475 deg F (264 deg C) which is low, and it flowed easily and quickly into the join without fuss. I didn't want to push my luck with a silver solder, not having had any experience of silver soldering. The gilt took to the solder I used, and coloured it the same as the copper and it became invisible. Vaughan
  10. Here's my first post, and my first attempt at making a habaki for my aikuchi. I followed the instructions in the book "Craft of the Japanese Sword". I used 3mm copper sheet hammered on a newly-acquired anvil with a wedge hammer. I only hit my thumb once but stabbed my finger twice with a rat-tail file. The workpiece was annealed at three stages. The machigane was secured with silver/tin solder. I used a stationary rotary disc sander to rough the final shape after which a series of flat steel diamond knife sharpeners were used wet to get the surfaces true. Then final finish with automotive sanding blocks. Gilt nego gaki finish courtesy of Richard Adams. Vaughan
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