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About zook

  • Birthday February 22

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    Northern Virginia, USA
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    Military Swords of Imperial Japan

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  1. Totally agree Brian, and Grey makes a superb point on the saya! To clarify a point I was making above on removal of cosmoline from surplus weapons, I have found the safest and most thorough way to get it fully removed is heat, but specifically extremely hot (boiling) water in a large pot. I remove the wooden stock from rifles, and I place all parts in boiling water for a few minutes, and one can see the cosmoline simply melt off and fall into the water (and stink up your residence to high heavens!!)... It is very odd looking to put a large cauldron size pot on the stove, and have a long rifle barrel dangling half way out of the pot, but since metal conveys heat, it just works, and it's the best way to get the cosmoline out of the "nooks and crannies" of the finer metal parts (Note: machine made gun parts, and NOT polished blades of any type construction . HOWEVER, boiling the parts, wiping off access, drying each part, re-assembling and properly oiling a rifle ... one can end up with a nice metal finish but still a ROUGH LOOKING STOCK where the cosmoline has spill over into the wood and permanently penetrated. There is nothing that can be done about that. Machine made Swords - I've learned long ago from more experienced collectors on here (Shamsy, Bruce, etc ) that on a Type 95 NCO (for example) there is no need to remove the saya and if the screw looks tampered with ... it's something that is worth noticing with caution as a collector. If I had an aluminum saya NCO sword with original paint remaining on it and cosmoline on the blade, then in my opinion- the only recourse is to remove the cosmoline by hand from the blade (much wiping and a box of rags) and I would totally leave the saya alone. I would do the same for later issue (wooden says) because I personally don't want to impact patinas nor run into challenges of re-assembly issues to get it back to the original state (as some late - war Type 95s were assembled crudely).
  2. Hey Kaz - I responded to your note to me, I call cosmoline the "Devil's Vasoline" .... there are so many better products out there in today's modern age. I have never applied it to anything. As stated, - if you just want to experiment , I totally agree with Bruce and others and get a junker. Better yet, ask Samurai Monkey for one of his junker swords on Ebay (lol). Seriously though - I have worked with Cosmoline A LOT on surplus weapons because I have had to remove it from about 20 plus surplus firearms, and I have removed it from two Type 95s. Upon removing, I have observed NO damage to the rifles, not even to the bluing ...when I removed the cosmoline, and I find the safest way to remove it is with HEAT. The type 95s I removed it from where already in rough shape. I my opinion, you can't remove cosmoline with heat on a 95 sword with aluminum handle (that has paint remaining) ...you will further degrade the handle if you do. It's just too risky. Dan
  3. Fuzzy … Asking for clear photos of stamps and serial numbers is a reasonable request for a treasonable chance to sell / Dan
  4. I see a lot of NCO swords popping up on Facebook militaria forums and folks tell the owner to examine tang for signatures .... !! Goodness . (Nice copper BTW!)
  5. Cal - I have reached out to Michael Bortner in the past regarding flag info (translations, authentications, etc) and he is most personable and helpful. He has his own website if you google his name. Photo of his book cover attached - Regards, Dan
  6. Yes - I am following the warrelics chat (Bruce mentions) on the Type 32/Type 95 and it has me breaking out the digital calipers later tonight 😁 ... fascinating topic. I just hope Monkey doesn't see that thread and throw one of his handles on a type 32 and create another "prototype" (sorry to be negative, but that thought crossed my mind!) Dan
  7. Ok Folks - Just to be clear - I am not buying this sword, so I don't have to buy the story! but I am helping out a friend and I have reach the limit of my abilities so I came to team of collective experts! Here is the background: I have a friend who is a collector/picker in the region where I live. He collects mostly military firearms, but stumbled across a person who sold him this shin gunto, stating he bought it from a vet who fought on Iwo Jima and recovered it from a cave. My friend asked me if I could tell him more about this sword, and I said we need to look at the nakago. Upfront - the word is not in the best of shape. The blade has not been properly cared for, nor stored correctly. The saya is in rough shape is missing much of its leather cover. When we examine the nakago, it was heavily coated with some bad rust and dirt. I carefully wiped down the nakago a few times with an oiled rag, just to remove particles and dirt. I can make out two characters to comprise of the signature, but I don't recognize the signature so I am starting here in the military side of the forum to see if we can solve it here (who the smith is). I looked over the nakago carefully we a magnifier and I see no evidence of any stamps. The other side has no markings, it is just the two characters. I assume this is a showa era sword, but appreciate any and all insights that I can provide to my friend on this blade. I apologize if it is hard to read the characters - best I could do given the condition of the blade. Thank you! Dan
  8. Yes - it seems like a nice copy for a "filler display" or reenactment. I'd be tempted to pay 30 dollars for it to use in that way! (I am sure it's being offered for a measurably higher price). With all the detail into the paint, etc.... I'm slightly curious why they felt compelled to put a serial number on saya drag - Dan
  9. Oh... also notice he doesn't ship to Russia or China because they have ripped him off ...
  10. Steve baited us ... He needed to put "Monkey" on his initial thread posting and I would have ignored reading it
  11. Good point Steve - done! I am off to sleep. Chat soon folks. Dan
  12. Another offered black saya for reference https://www.ebay.com...8?ul_noapp=true
  13. Oh man .... that one is hard for me to look at Trystan. Painting that handle is a travesty ... hard to restore
  14. From my man Showa ... Here is the link if you haven't already discovered: https://www.ebay.com/itm/233565899798?ul_noapp=true Steve has commented on these many times over in past postings. I believe I can see traces of green paint underneath. As I recall, there is clear documentation for painting the Type 32 swords because of the fact they were bare metal, but nothing for the 95. Stay safe - Dan
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