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Everything posted by zook

  1. IMO - that’s too much money to pay for a mismatch ( in the states ) , I’m not sure that the European market holds for NCOs, but I acknowledge that militaria prices generally run higher in Europe ., based on other items I track.
  2. I'd be curious if there are any bid withdrawals - it's easy to do.
  3. Hey Rob - now this one looks crappy (Fuchi, handle, etc...) to me, not the quality fake in my eyes, compared to the more recent posts.
  4. Gents - just a quick data point as I returned from my 4 day trip to the Show of Shows in Kentucky (largest Militaria show). This was the first show that included the international dealer/collector community since pre-COVID, and it was very crowded! Lots of Japanese WW2 swords to be discovered. I was focusing on my "helmet" portion of my hobby so I only handled the NCO swords (easier to look at them for condition and quality then officer swords or Nihonto blades). I was pleased that of the NCO swords I saw or handled, all seemed very genuine ... almost all what I would consider in average condition (not poor condition, but definitely not mint). Attached is a good representative sword from show - to include price trends. I did not see one listed below 1,000 USD. I saw that most if not all were sold by last day. I did NOT see any copper NCO swords (I personally have only seen one copper at a major show since 2018). cheers - Dan
  5. Gents ... I know, I know ...I've been off in German dagger land for a while, but still stick around to learn and follow trends :). On this particular sword, if it's a fake - it's pretty darn good (my humble opinion) ... but, Tristan & Steve - what are your thoughts on the Kokura stamp? Does it seem solid to you? Regards, Dan
  6. Good intuition Chris . .. so if you collect Japanese firearms you are familiar with the Tokyo arsenal stamps on the Nambu's. A good tokyo arsenal stamp is similar in appearance on an NCO sword. If you do a comparison to this arsenal stamp, the difference kind of jumps out (to me, anyway :). ... as a starting point. The numerical fonts are also off the mark. Dan
  7. Catching up on posts ... the quality of the fakes are just getting better and better ... ! Dan
  8. Totally agree Brian, and Grey makes a superb point on the saya! To clarify a point I was making above on removal of cosmoline from surplus weapons, I have found the safest and most thorough way to get it fully removed is heat, but specifically extremely hot (boiling) water in a large pot. I remove the wooden stock from rifles, and I place all parts in boiling water for a few minutes, and one can see the cosmoline simply melt off and fall into the water (and stink up your residence to high heavens!!)... It is very odd looking to put a large cauldron size pot on the stove, and have a long rifle barrel dangling half way out of the pot, but since metal conveys heat, it just works, and it's the best way to get the cosmoline out of the "nooks and crannies" of the finer metal parts (Note: machine made gun parts, and NOT polished blades of any type construction . HOWEVER, boiling the parts, wiping off access, drying each part, re-assembling and properly oiling a rifle ... one can end up with a nice metal finish but still a ROUGH LOOKING STOCK where the cosmoline has spill over into the wood and permanently penetrated. There is nothing that can be done about that. Machine made Swords - I've learned long ago from more experienced collectors on here (Shamsy, Bruce, etc ) that on a Type 95 NCO (for example) there is no need to remove the saya and if the screw looks tampered with ... it's something that is worth noticing with caution as a collector. If I had an aluminum saya NCO sword with original paint remaining on it and cosmoline on the blade, then in my opinion- the only recourse is to remove the cosmoline by hand from the blade (much wiping and a box of rags) and I would totally leave the saya alone. I would do the same for later issue (wooden says) because I personally don't want to impact patinas nor run into challenges of re-assembly issues to get it back to the original state (as some late - war Type 95s were assembled crudely).
  9. Hey Kaz - I responded to your note to me, I call cosmoline the "Devil's Vasoline" .... there are so many better products out there in today's modern age. I have never applied it to anything. As stated, - if you just want to experiment , I totally agree with Bruce and others and get a junker. Better yet, ask Samurai Monkey for one of his junker swords on Ebay (lol). Seriously though - I have worked with Cosmoline A LOT on surplus weapons because I have had to remove it from about 20 plus surplus firearms, and I have removed it from two Type 95s. Upon removing, I have observed NO damage to the rifles, not even to the bluing ...when I removed the cosmoline, and I find the safest way to remove it is with HEAT. The type 95s I removed it from where already in rough shape. I my opinion, you can't remove cosmoline with heat on a 95 sword with aluminum handle (that has paint remaining) ...you will further degrade the handle if you do. It's just too risky. Dan
  10. Fuzzy … Asking for clear photos of stamps and serial numbers is a reasonable request for a treasonable chance to sell / Dan
  11. I see a lot of NCO swords popping up on Facebook militaria forums and folks tell the owner to examine tang for signatures .... !! Goodness . (Nice copper BTW!)
  12. Cal - I have reached out to Michael Bortner in the past regarding flag info (translations, authentications, etc) and he is most personable and helpful. He has his own website if you google his name. Photo of his book cover attached - Regards, Dan
  13. Yes - I am following the warrelics chat (Bruce mentions) on the Type 32/Type 95 and it has me breaking out the digital calipers later tonight 😁 ... fascinating topic. I just hope Monkey doesn't see that thread and throw one of his handles on a type 32 and create another "prototype" (sorry to be negative, but that thought crossed my mind!) Dan
  14. Ok Folks - Just to be clear - I am not buying this sword, so I don't have to buy the story! but I am helping out a friend and I have reach the limit of my abilities so I came to team of collective experts! Here is the background: I have a friend who is a collector/picker in the region where I live. He collects mostly military firearms, but stumbled across a person who sold him this shin gunto, stating he bought it from a vet who fought on Iwo Jima and recovered it from a cave. My friend asked me if I could tell him more about this sword, and I said we need to look at the nakago. Upfront - the word is not in the best of shape. The blade has not been properly cared for, nor stored correctly. The saya is in rough shape is missing much of its leather cover. When we examine the nakago, it was heavily coated with some bad rust and dirt. I carefully wiped down the nakago a few times with an oiled rag, just to remove particles and dirt. I can make out two characters to comprise of the signature, but I don't recognize the signature so I am starting here in the military side of the forum to see if we can solve it here (who the smith is). I looked over the nakago carefully we a magnifier and I see no evidence of any stamps. The other side has no markings, it is just the two characters. I assume this is a showa era sword, but appreciate any and all insights that I can provide to my friend on this blade. I apologize if it is hard to read the characters - best I could do given the condition of the blade. Thank you! Dan
  15. Yes - it seems like a nice copy for a "filler display" or reenactment. I'd be tempted to pay 30 dollars for it to use in that way! (I am sure it's being offered for a measurably higher price). With all the detail into the paint, etc.... I'm slightly curious why they felt compelled to put a serial number on saya drag - Dan
  16. Oh... also notice he doesn't ship to Russia or China because they have ripped him off ...
  17. Steve baited us ... He needed to put "Monkey" on his initial thread posting and I would have ignored reading it
  18. Good point Steve - done! I am off to sleep. Chat soon folks. Dan
  19. Another offered black saya for reference https://www.ebay.com...8?ul_noapp=true
  20. Oh man .... that one is hard for me to look at Trystan. Painting that handle is a travesty ... hard to restore
  21. From my man Showa ... Here is the link if you haven't already discovered: https://www.ebay.com/itm/233565899798?ul_noapp=true Steve has commented on these many times over in past postings. I believe I can see traces of green paint underneath. As I recall, there is clear documentation for painting the Type 32 swords because of the fact they were bare metal, but nothing for the 95. Stay safe - Dan
  22. Based on Steve's last post, I can only imagine (sarcastically) some guy in a remote shop, somewhere in China saying, " with everyone working from home, I have time on my hands ... I gotta get these stamps looking better!" ... can definitely see steady improvement in the copies, especially if one looks at all the historical posts and just looks at the trend of improvement.
  23. Hey Bruce - Sure thing - see attached photo. Previous owner put chalk or something in stamps. I'm not a fan of that, but leaving it alone for now.
  24. LATEST PICK-UP, and I figured I would just add it to this excellent thread! I see (saw) no issue with this Nagoya Ver3 (pattern 4) side latch that was on Ebay earlier this month and was pleasantly surprised to be winning bidder for this sword (unless NCO sword prices are now hitting a wall and are really dropping)! Stamps are fairly visible on this Seki. That said - I think I got a decent deal. Only big issue is a dent in the saya (visible in the photo) but it has no impact on sheathing of the sword and the blade is in pretty good shape! Matching serial numbers of #131322. Paint isn't bad ...some light rust on saya. I hope everyone is staying safe and are able to "maintain" in these trying times! Cheers - Dan
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