b.hennick

Hi Ray You pointed out a nice sword but I think it was pre-war.

I don't collect in that area so I'm not the perrson to ask. My first sword was a WWII blade. I bought it in 1976.I still have it. In 40 years I've handled a lot of swords. That is why I was able to reply to your initial post.

Characteristics of the best WWII sword: traditionally made by hand using traditional materials excellent condition - great polish, no kizu of any sort signed and dated by a recognised highly rated smith - his best work if the smith is deceased the blade should be papered by NBTHK hozon or tokubetsu hozon first quality mounts also in great condition Bonus - original general's tassel with provenance Failing the above go for either Yasakuni shrine smith, Minatogawa jinja smith or Star stamped blade - all traditionally made and within reach.

Thaks Grev! I hope to have some time to look at it after the weekend. Busy time of year - New Year!! Have a Happy New Year and thanks again for all your work.

Thanks for the files Grev. Can you explain how the mei probability works? Is there an easy way to get the translation/romanji of that kanji?

Good advice on Nagamaki on "naginata naoshi".

p.m. sent

Most tsuba under $1000 sell without NTHK papers. People often complain that the papers do not tell them much. They have a Higo tsuba that they think was made by a specific artist and comes back papered to Higo. If you have a $500 tsuba and you spend $250 to get papers I do not think that you immediately have a $750 tsuba. OTH, if you have studied a tsuba and think you know who made it and when it was made, you might want to see if shinsa results confirm your judgement or make you think more about the piece. If you have a $250 tsuba. with papers, you need $500 to break even. I suggest that you look at the messageboard sales section to see what is being sold with and without papers. You would probably be better to buy a $500 unpapered tsuba.

Welcome, John. I'm sure that you will find this a good place to learn and share...

See you there!

Robert see post #4

The joy of the season in photos are super. Thanks for those great pictures.

Hi Steve: I have had both iron and soft metal tsuba restored. I have used the services of professionals. In an article for the JSSUS Newsletter Volume 48 #2 Titled: Restoring Armour and Swords – Contrasting Points of View Part D: Koshirae I. Bottomley, F. A. B. Coutinho, B. Hennick and W. B. Tanner this work is illustrated. Follow the link to see the before and after images colour images of the restored work. Here is the link: http://www.jssus.org/images.pdf Figures 7a and b, figure 8a and b. In my case, I look at each piece and decide whether I can live with it in the condition found or not. If I decide that the piece needs restoration I pass it to the appropriate professional. I have not been disappointed.

Grey is my go-to guy for books. I have also bought many tsuba from him - no yari yet :-)

Hi John: Years ago, at a sword show, there was a display of Masamune and his students. I fell in love with a sword by a certain smith. I thought it to be the best of the group. I then set a target of buying a blade by him. It took several years. I had to sell a lot of things - some at loss, to finally get my sword by that smith. Perhaps you need to set the goal for a $10k sword - polished, papered (tokubetsu hozon) +/- koshirae. Reach that goal and see where it takes you. 10 $100 tsuba could get you one good $1000 tsuba.

This evening when scanning articles looking for Grey's article on packing a sword for shipment, I decided to re-read Paul's article on Awataguchi Norikuni. It was a joy to read. Paul's love of the blade and his journey to learn what it has to teach makes for an interesting read. I suggest that you take the time read this.Here is a link to the page: http://www.militaria.co.za/articles/Norikuni.pdf There are many great articles worth reading and re-reading posted on Nihonto message board NMB.

I have also used, artwork cases, fishing rod cases and cardboard cylinders from rugs. I have also like Brian #18 wrapped blades in saran wrap and fastened them to a board. None were problems but Ted's way was the best by far.

Any good shirasaya maker could do it. I'm sure that John Terado could make one for you.

The full box had foam. The foam was at least a couple of inches thick in all directions once the package was finished. Cutouts were made to match blade and koshirae. The blade was wrapped in saran wrap, in shirasaya in a padded bag. The koshirae was also in a bag. The cardboard forming the box was thick and solid. The box was taped to protect edges and openings.I couldn't ask for better.

Props to Ted Tenold who did the best packaging job that i have ever seen. I have been at this for a long time. When I received his package I was embarrassed by what I sent him. Thanks again Ted!

Could it be a locking device? It reminds me of something in my luggage to keep things in place. Owls are quite rare on fittings.

I too know of a fuchi that has had the signature removed.

I see the feature that you refer to but I do not see it as a typical hagire. I think that this one needs to be seen in-hand. Thanks for pointing this out.

I have seen a table with tsuba used a decoration around the rim of the table top. Someone drilled small two small holes for fastening the tsuba to the surface. Luckily none were masterpieces.