Katsujinken

That’s fair, these are all opinions. And that’s the point. A paper is an opinion that is really a proxy for a shared understanding of a hierarchy of quality. There is an underlying taxonomy here that should be appreciated. (And by the way, Darcy has studied tens of thousands of hours more than any of us for decades now, spent more time in person with dealers and NBTHK luminaries in Japan, and handled more world class blades than any of us. I would say he is absolutely an expert. But who’s keeping score?) But how about Tanobe sensei? ‘I bought a Juyo Norishige to Tanobe sensei once and he looked at it with great interest and a big smile on his face. After making a lot of appreciative sounds he look at me and said, “20% Go, 80% Norishige.”’ This is the reality, and it is clear that this is how the top experts in the world conceptualize attributions to mumei blades. Are you saying you believe that a mumei blade papered to Naoe Shizu was absolutely made by one of Kaneuji’s students during the time they lived in Naoe? In many ways, that is the least interesting bit of information that could be conveyed. I’ve made my point though. To each his own.

I very much think it does, and Barry’s response above is also quite good. Now, I didn’t say that the indication of relative quality is the only information contained in papers for mumei blades. This is very much a three or perhaps four dimensional concept, one that most collectors really struggle with. As I said Darcy has written extensively on this topic, and I find his arguments authoritative and pursuasive. Here’s a good example, and there are surely many more to be found on this very board: https://blog.yuhindo.com/20-go-80-norishige/#more-152

Engravings are common, but that one is terrible and in combination with other things is a telltale giveaway for a blade that is not a nihonto.

Also, no one is really disagreeing with this. You need to pay very close attention. And keep reading. :-)

Yes, in the hands of an expert this is the whole idea, and it happens all the time. The authenticated signed blades set the standards used to assign attributions to mumei blades. The field is always evolving. This is also a very important point: Most Koto swords are unsigned due to shortening. Did you know this? Keep studying...

When a mumei blade is given an attribution to a school or even a particular smith what you have is a statement of relative quality and importance within a system of consistent measurement over time. So a Naoe Shizu attribution means the sword is better than Mihara but not good enough to be called Kaneuji. Brian is 100% correct, Freddie—with study and training kantei is nearly a science. Nearly. But you also recognize that no one has a time machine. Darcy Brockbank has written a lot about this (much of it on this board in the past). That you are asking these questions is not a bad thing. It just means it’s time for you to put real effort into serious study if you truly want to understand the answers.

Thanks Steve and Manuel. By the way I definitely agree that this is not a Suruga.

Happy to....thanks Steve! (This of course assumes the tsuba goes with the box...)

Most people (even iaidoka) do not understand what “sharp” means in the context of a Japanese sword. It’s totally different than what one needs to cleanly slice paper. That’s not what the blade was made to do! The katana especially requires a proper profile but that marriage of form and function must align with body mechanics and, dare I say, the right state of mind. Sigh.

This is definitely beyond me... thanks!

It’s tough to say really. The blade is out of polish, but it’s not in bad shape. Definitely worth preserving and maybe worth restoring depending on your appetite for spending money. If you’re looking to make money that’s a big gamble. Please do not try to improve the blade yourself and do not work with someone without formal training in Japan. That list of people outside of Japan is VERY short. Ask here first. But this is a solid sword with potential. I’m sure other folks with even more expertise will chime in. Do you know how to care for the blade properly? Lots of resources to be found here.

This is common on osuriage blades. Better photos that show more detail of the hamon and the tip would help with evaluation. At first blush this may be Muromachi or even late Nanbokucho. The nakago sori and amount of implied shortening point to Koto for me... But we need more photos.

Where do you live? Impossible to speculate on value at this point. A polisher could open a “window” that might provide much more insight into how you should proceed. You should also get the sayagaki (writing on the scabbard) translated. It looks extensive, but with better photos someone here might be able to help.

No, you can’t fix a hagire. Yes, it can still be polished (though you may want to explain the situation to the togishi). And since you’re not planning to fight with the sword () and the value is sentimental, I say do what will make you happy!

The plates could be later additions if the menuki were modified for use on something other than a tsuka (like a tobacco pouch, coin purse, etc.)

Yep, this is normal. F&W assume any Japanese sword shipment will have ray skin.

The perforated date in the upper left was introduced in the late nineties, I think. Perhaps someone can provide a more specific date.

Ah thanks so much! I thought I might be off.

I think this says 心 強い. Do I have it right?

SOLD and donation sent to the board! Thanks all.

On hold pending payment via installments! Will update this thread when the transaction is finalized in approximately one month.

That is 100% not Heian. And that mei sure is in a strange spot. Move along...

Note that depending on the value of the sword there may be some import fees.

Perhaps they were modified for decorative use on something other than a tsuka?

What’s your budget? That’s really going to determine the mix of characteristics available to you. As for period, I believe that every collector should have some Koto if possible. As for UK dealers, Pablo Kuntz of Unique Japan is now based in the UK. But other dealers outside of the UK, many of whom are on this board, would be happy to work with you I am sure. With a budget in mind we can make more specific recommendations. Good luck.