Katsujinken

Where do you live? Impossible to speculate on value at this point. A polisher could open a “window” that might provide much more insight into how you should proceed. You should also get the sayagaki (writing on the scabbard) translated. It looks extensive, but with better photos someone here might be able to help.

No, you can’t fix a hagire. Yes, it can still be polished (though you may want to explain the situation to the togishi). And since you’re not planning to fight with the sword () and the value is sentimental, I say do what will make you happy!

The plates could be later additions if the menuki were modified for use on something other than a tsuka (like a tobacco pouch, coin purse, etc.)

These are lovely.

Yep, this is normal. F&W assume any Japanese sword shipment will have ray skin.

The perforated date in the upper left was introduced in the late nineties, I think. Perhaps someone can provide a more specific date.

Ah thanks so much! I thought I might be off.

I think this says 心 強い. Do I have it right?

SOLD and donation sent to the board! Thanks all.

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That is 100% not Heian. And that mei sure is in a strange spot. Move along...

Note that depending on the value of the sword there may be some import fees.

Perhaps they were modified for decorative use on something other than a tsuka?

What’s your budget? That’s really going to determine the mix of characteristics available to you. As for period, I believe that every collector should have some Koto if possible. As for UK dealers, Pablo Kuntz of Unique Japan is now based in the UK. But other dealers outside of the UK, many of whom are on this board, would be happy to work with you I am sure. With a budget in mind we can make more specific recommendations. Good luck.

I used to own that Shoami tsuba. It’s quite enjoyable! Lovely fukurin.

Why on EARTH would you do that with the sword?

Also, worth noting that insurance values/appraisals often are/should generally be ABOVE what the retail market will bear, and are not the right barometer for deal making or negotiation. To clarify what others mean to say re: the current attribution, they are trying to confirm if the blade has gone through an actual NTHK shinsa, which is not the same as having an opinion from a member of the committee. In any case, for “ubu/signed” Koto work I’d much prefer a NBTHK kanteisho. And ubu at 71cm seems short to me for the time period you hope for. And I agree with Brian 100%. But photos will be helpful!

This has been covered elsewhere, but it is standard to require a tax ID during import when packages are above a certain value. A SSN is a tax ID, but it is also possible to get a separate number you can use (usually for businesses). So the SSN is not required, but a tax ID is. Most people only have their SSN though. Nothing nefarious here.

Always a treat to see a great shinsakuto get this kind of treatment. Congratulations! PS: I think Tanobe sensei liked it.

The last two comments are spot on. I’ve got nothing to add! :-)

Grey is great!

Where on the east coast are you? A bit of a moot point with the pandemic, but the New York Token Kai would be a good bet for in person help when the time comes. As others noted, this sword was likely made during a period of mass production. That’s not necessarily a bad thing – it’s still a traditionally made sword that is nearly 500 years old, and this sword was made to be used and not to be worn on a merchant’s hip. However, the ultimate value will be driven by the quality of the workmanship in the blade itself. You’re safely in the $2000-$6000 ballpark though, I think. One question: what is the length of the cutting edge (straight line from tip/kissaki to the notch on the tang/nakago)? With an in person evaluation you can figure out if it’s worth making additional investments (polish, shirasaya, etc.).

A properly oiled blade (i.e. not too much oil!) will not damage a shirasaya as long as it is stored properly – laying down and not standing up vertically.

Indeed an anti-corrosion bag is not really for display: https://www.bluguardvci.com Yes, you should oil the blade whenever you’re not studying it (see more in the short guide Grey shared above).