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Bruce Pennington

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Everything posted by Bruce Pennington

  1. Here's an interesting one: http://www.militaria.co.za/nmb/topic/30772-interesting-mikasa-dirk-whotstamp/?hl=mikasa
  2. Removed the naugahide today. Sure enough, the tsuka was grooved for the rayskin and there were square cut-outs where I presume the thin metal plates went for the retention screw. The Bubba had replaced them with a modern nut.
  3. I like it when they are already with the sword, but I’m mostly looking for the sword and it’s condition. I have gone out and bought tassels for each of my swords, if they didn’t have one already.
  4. I thought I saw something of a rubbed-out stamp on the fuchi, but after enlargement, I don't know what it is. Maybe just dings from assembly. Looks original though, not from Bubba. I was hoping it was the legendary “maru-Ai" (愛)” stamp. But it doesn't seem to be.
  5. Thomas, As these are very early in the production, maybe the Kokura inspectors were adding their approval in addition to the Nagoya inspectors; then, for unknown reasons, later discontinued the practice. We'd need to see some other blades in the number-range to see if they all had the 4th stamp. There are a couple of other 95s with a 4th stamp, the "jin" of Jensen Arsenal, on Tokyo made blades. But the reason for it might be different than these two.
  6. Trystan, I just went back to the Japaneseswordsindex.com and realized they've made a "typo" and put the exact same kanji in the "Ne" spot as in the "Ha" spot. Checking other charts, I agree with "Ha."
  7. I don’t think I’ve ever seen a sculpted tsuba on a 95 without the hole for the tassel.
  8. Well, and update. After showing the choices from Steve's post #5, Guy re-evaluated: "I just looked at it again and expanded the size. I think now I see 佐. When I first looked at it, I thought the last 3 strokes were 口, but I was wrong. I would have thought that 兼佐 would be Kanesa. But when I researched the kanji 佐 I found that for names it can be "suke." Sheesh! - Guy" http://www.warrelics.eu/forum/Japanese-militaria/2nd-second-opinion-mei-759013/ I don't see either name on the Japaneseswordindex.com oshigata page. Maybe someone with a Slough's or Marcus' book can compare the mei of Kanesa (if it exists) and Kanesuke.
  9. That's a good one Trystan! You're good at Japanese, do you know the translation of the kanji? Seems like the hiragana "Ne": The "Toyokawa + 1" collection is growing!
  10. Steve, Fabulous work. Seriously can't wait for your book. Please don't let silly things like work, marraige, new baby, etc, get in your way!!! Ha! Now I feel like there might have been some legit transitional 95s come through here that we may have dismissed as "brass" fakes. Are you saying that ALL aluminum handles were coated with almite? If so, it must have worn off with the paint in the gunto we see today that are bare aluminum. I have a #10506 that clearly has the almite coating still. Looks like it was after the transition because they were "moving" the ito for the screw.
  11. Thanks for the article Dave! Since it is such a simple wrap, I will go for it. We have enough examples to go by for me to copy, and like you said, the knot at the end is the only real challenge, but looks do-able. In the end, if it looks crappy, I'll still send it off for the pros to do and I'll have learned something of the craft in the meantime. Thanks for the menugi, Neil! I'll order the ito from Fred's website.
  12. From Guy at Warrelics: “ 豊佑作 Toyosuke saku”
  13. I tried to get a menuki from him, but he's blocked me!
  14. Chris, That really is a beautiful hamon! Smith is: 兼永 (Kanenaga) Real name: 渡辺 万次郎 (I don't know how this translates) Don't know anything about the smith, maybe one of the nihonto guys can help. At that price, you got a great deal!
  15. Thanks for the update, and thanks JP for checking on that!
  16. Thanks Neil. I've left a phone message with Fred (his website email system seems to be inop at the moment). I'm hoping to negotiate a lower price since the wrap is so basic with no folding. It looks so simple I might consider buying the ito from him and doing it myself if he's not willing to work with me on price.
  17. This - 昭和十六年 - comes out to "1941", and the stamp is the "Seki" stamp. By '41, it would represent smiths working in the Seki prefecture and/or for the Seki swordsmith guild
  18. Thanks Neil, I'll contact him. Email on the way! I'll get some photos to you when it's finished and you can decide if you want it, thanks!
  19. My humble thanks to each of you!
  20. Just what I was hoping for! And as varied as our tastes are in collecting. I really appreciate Michael's perspective. I was so focused on trying to clear a profit, no matter how small, that I had forgotten a greater ideal - being known for quality. Regardless of the Type or item's life path, should I simply pass on a Bubba-job to make a buck?! *sigh* I'll take it on the chin, if I have to, and get this one repaired to a respectable point. When ready for sale, I'll simply explain it's condition, past and present, and let the chips fall where they may. Anyone know the guy that everyone always recommends for a tsuka re-wrap? DaveR - do you re-wrap tsukas? Oh, and I'll need a couple of menugi.
  21. Nice little one Kenny! Kanji are just “10 3” or 13. Don’t know the significance.
  22. Thanks Possom! I didn't have that one, I appreciate it!
  23. I just picked up a Rinji Sheishiki (Type 3) for resale and it's got, what I thought was a leather wrapped tsuka. But after a closer look, I think it's a post-war Bubba-job. Did the Japanese use naugahyde in WWII? Google says it was invented in the USA in 1936. So, I guess it's possible on this 1945 gunto, but it just doesn't seem right to me. It's a sloppy seam and the kabutogane has the hole where the end of an ito wrap would terminate. So what do you think? If Bubba-work, then I have another question for you to opnine about: Knowing that for $200 or less, I could get this re-wrapped in the correct Rinji way ... but should I? Or should I simply resell "as is" and advise the new owner that he can get a rewrap? I'll be frank, I bought it for $600. A re-wrap would bring my costs up to $800. And that's probably right up to the market top-end for a late-war Rinji. But I think it would be more attractive for re-sale if it looked better. As you can see, I'm not good at this buying & selling stuff! But as a rookie, I'd like to hear your thoughts.
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