16k

Thank you guys for your input. Glue was made today. Tomorrow I’ll try it. Thanks again.

wow, that was done by a pig! That’s really surprising. Maybe it was done later on?

Good vibesGood vibesGood vibesGood vibesGood vibesGood vibesGood vibesGood vibesGood vibesGood vibesGood vibesGood vibesGood vibesGood vibesGood vibesGood vibesGood vibesGood vibesGood vibesGood vibesGood vibesGood vibesGood vibesGood vibesGood vibesGood vibesGood vibesGood vibesGood vibesGood vibesGood vibesGood vibesGood vibesGood vibesGood vibesGood vibesGood vibesGood vibesGood vibesGood vibesGood vibesGood vibesGood vibesGood vibesGood vibesGood vibesGood vibesGood vibesGood vibesGood vibesGood vibesGood vibesGood vibesGood vibesGood vibesGood vibesGood vibesGood vibesGood vibesGood vibesGood vibesGood vibesGood vibesGood vibesGood vibesGood vibesGood vibesGood vibesGood vibesGood vibesGood vibesGood vibesGood vibesGood vibesGood vibesGood vibesGood vibesGood vibesGood vibesGood vibesGood vibesGood vibesGood vibesGood vibesGood vibesGood vibesGood vibesGood vibesGood vibesGood vibesGood vibesGood vibesGood vibesGood vibesGood vibesGood vibes.... to Brian,

Thank you, I’ll pay a lot of attention. When I look at the two halves, looks like very little glues was applied. I think I’m going to try and respect the same spots, taking into account that it will probably spread when pressure is applied.

Thank you Dave, that’s awesome. Any idea how it takes to dry up?

Thanks, that’s a definite idea. How about leaving the blade bare on a kake and soak it in oil?

Hi guys, So I have this split up Shirasaya. So far, I’m using the paper bands method to hold it but today, I’ve decided to make rice glue and repair it. I have the recipe and ingredients covered, but have three questions for those Who’ve already done it: - what tool do you use to spread it? A paintbrush I suppose or your fingers? Any tips there? - how long before it is dry and I can put the sword back in? - where do you store the sword in the ,meantime, knowing the Shirasaya is the only saya I have for it? Thank you for your help, Cheers, JP

Beautiful one, Mike, I’m jealous!

Yes. Spider rust is supposed to be rust from blood. But I guess it could be produced by other stuff too.

Site is working for me now.

I have, both from HK and the USA. Last Friday I received a package From the US for something Greg I had ordered in May. One is still missing. HK has restarted but has stopped again last week as they’ve shut down so,e post offices again. They should restart this week, at least for EMS.

Uuuhm! Probably a glitch! When I click your link, Dave, nothing happens.🤷‍♀️

Brian, Will there be an option to add our names at the bottom of the posts, because knowing myself, I’ll forget to add it most of the time JP

Well, here in the sale section. Otherwise, I recommend Ray, Ed and Gray since you live in the USA. All of them are great and trustworthy dealers. http://yakiba.com http://swordsofjapan.com https://www.japaneseswordbooksandtsuba.com JP

Fatal, no. They’re ware. But they certainly distract from the beauty and price of the blade. If the question is"can they be corrected", we’ll not by a polish. It can be repaired by a skillful polisher that can fill the ware with some metal, but it will still be somewhat visible and pricey. Not worth it Imho. JP

I guess active rust that was removed. Or could be some sort of bagage against a rough surface, like a rock that has suffered oxidation over time. You picture makes it hard to know if it’s just on the surface or indented in the ji.

I like the look of it. First time I connected, my initial reaction was: damn, I must have selected the wrong icon on my iPad! 🤣 JP

Personally, if all the items are grouped, I think it could even reach 2000. Flags are also valuable, as is provenance. The blade is in great condition, so 1000 seems a little low imho, but 1500-2000 is I think rather reasonable.

Perhaps Tokyo acted as a wholesale distributor. Perhaps was a way for the government to better monitor the number of blades produced and maybe a faster way to ship them where they were needed. Conjectures of course.

i wouldn’t hesitate too long if I were you! Buy it! It will be worth a fortune in a few years!

Yes, I was thinking the early one, with the green cover. I seem to remember an ad for officer swords, so maybe it was with it.

Bruce, I don’t have my books with me, but wasn’t there one in the Fuller and Gregory books?

That was my first impression. The stamp is so deep and perfect that it looks carved, not stamped. Also, that tang looks bright new. I believe what you said to be true, Bruce. Probably a real Showato and somebody filed the nakago to make it look like a Mantetsu tang then added a good looking mei (maybe a little too good and a bit large I think)

All I can say is that if gimei (probable), the faker did a rather good job at reproducing the strokes.

Easy test: take a magnet. If it’s attracted= iron or steel. If not, aluminum. Not even sure the Ray skin is real. Looks like plastic.