Ken-Hawaii

That brings up the question of whether modern tosho can or should be compared on a one-to-one basis with, say, Kamakura Nihonto. How would one assign point values for different techniques, modern materials, etc.? Ken

What the heck is that, Brian?? Looks like a cross between a short yari & a fish gutting knife! Ken

Believe it or not, most engineering is done the same way - through "feel" as much as book knowledge & experience. Ken

Gerald, I have a tanto with an oddball hataraki somewhat like yours: but I've come to the conclusion that the smith's intent was to make the hamon appear like Fuji-san, & the hamon goes all the way up to the mune. Your blade, on the other hand, has hataraki that look random. Do you have any information on the smith or school? Ken

Hillman, would you please sign your posts per Brian's rules? I have one wakizashi with excellent hataraki, but I've never seen anything like your blade. Do they go above the shinogi? Ken

I would suggest not telling your father how bad a deal he made...or he may try to use it on you! Fake or not, it will still likely cut. Ken

If it wasn't documented, I would have guessed that it was a Photoshop blade.... Piers, are you back? Ken

Very nice blade, of course, but I'm wondering why it was remounted as it can't be much more than 150 years old? And I'm also surprised that it isn't signed; I'm not aware of any blade that Kiyomaro didn't sign & date. Ken

Great acquisition, John! Although Linda & I got to spend quality time at the Bizen-Osafune Museum, we didn't have your luck in watching a smith create a blade, & of course we didn't buy a blade while we were there. I wonder if Kanefusa-san would be interested in selling his blades here in the U.S.? I've tried to convince several of the smiths we met to do so, but no one has agreed as yet. As I mentioned in an earlier post, many modern smiths aren't able to earn enough money to continue making blades, but also don't seem to want to investigate new markets. As none of us want to see Japanese blades disappear over time, any ideas on what we can do? Aloha! Ken

Jacques, I rather doubt that the rest of the blade would be in decent shape if the nakago & machi were that tired, don't you think? Ken

Hi, Chris: Good photos, but please include some for the boshi & the other side of the nakago. Ken

Hi, Steve, & welcome to the forum. It would help us to know what type(s) of blades you have so that we can advise you correctly. Photos are good, too. Without knowing more than that, I suggest you download the NBTHK's sword care guide (http://www.samuraisword.com/care/Japane ... _NBTHK.PDF). That will at least get you started, & should also keep you from doing no harm to your blade. One key note: do NOT do ANYthing to the rust on the nakago (hilt)!! Ken

Hoanh, I have a Canon T2i, so the Raynox should fit any Canon EF-S lenses; it's a screw-on/clip-on unit (http://www.amazon.com/Raynox-DCR-250-2-5x-Super-Macro/dp/B000A1SZ2Y/ref=sr_1_22?ie=UTF8&qid=1345157800&sr=8-22&keywords=macro+lens). The lamp itself is a pretty generic flexible neck device- no sign of a manufacturer's name - & I'm using a Bulbrite LED2CTC (http://www.amazon.com/Bulbrite-LED2CTC-Chandelier-Candelabra-Clear/dp/B0030B3Q0W/ref=sr_1_21?ie=UTF8&qid=1345157581&sr=8-21&keywords=led+bulb). I also use a very tiny Nanolight flashlight from Streamlight (http://www.amazon.com/Streamlight-73001-Miniature-Keychain-Flashlight/dp/B0011UIPIW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1345157941&sr=8-1&keywords=nanolight) when I want to show a specific detail; it's amazingly bright for a flashlight one inch long! Ken

Hoanh, there are a number of other tricks you can use to improve your macro photography. First, consider getting a macro setup. The least expensive is the closeup macro filter set, $11.49 at Amazon, followed closely by the Fotodiox macro extension tool set kit for $11.95. But I've had my best results using the Raynox DCR-250 super macro lens. All of these require a solid tripod & preferably a remote shutter release to avoid vibration for short depths of field. Second & equally important is your lighting. A single-lamp LED bulb made a huge improvement in my results over a standard incandescent bulb or a CFL. I can't remember if I've ever used a flash successfully. You can also find good on-line resources at http://www.arscives.com/bladesign/swordphotography.htm, http://www.swordforum.com/forums/showthread.php?7458-Photographing-Swords-Lighting-Questions&highlight=photography, & especially http://www.swordforum.com/forums/showthread.php?96903-Object-Photography-Guide&highlight=photography. Do be patient, & take good notes on what didn't work, as well as what did. Ken

I'm amazed that anyone isn't watching the Olympics! That's why I'm dragging today.... Ken

Interesting indeed. Thanks, Henry. Ken

Ron, I don't agree that Steve is "fortunate" as he obviously did some serious study before choosing his first Nihonto. Now I might agree that he was lucky to find it. Ken

I almost feel sorry for Guido! I already owe him about a gallon of mai tai for all the help he's given me on our upcoming sword exhibition! Well, I guess there are worse things to drown in. Thanks for that info, Franco. Ken

Very cool, Andrey, especially as you were able to shoot almost exactly the same views without knowing about the much older photos. You obviously have a photographer's eye! Ken

Hi, Franco: The centerpiece in my collection is a papered blade so far "ahead" of the others that I can't even name the smith here, but although I spend a lot of time studying it, there are others that I prefer to handle & study. Exactly why that is, I'm not sure, but a blade that is essentially perfect in fit, form, & function doesn't interest me as much as those with some minor blemishes. On your question on guidelines & approach for buying a collectible Nihonto, I would like to submit the following article. I don't know who wrote it, but it has been invaluable in guiding me towards my ultimate collection: If anyone knows the author of this masterwork, please let me know, as I would love to buy him/her a very large mai tai!! Ken

Steve, please sign each post, per Brian's rules. Welcome to the forum. Ken

Please sign your posts, per Brian's rules. Your photos are not clear enough to hazard much of a guess. Please shoot some more showing both sides of the nakago (handle), the boshi (other end), & a couple of shots of the middle of the blade. The first two shots need to be well-focused closeups so we can see the details. Welcome to the forum. Ken

I think Lee's comment was what a lot of us wanted to say, Brian, but held back. I have a very similar blade to the one you were looking at - my very first real>fake, Japanese>Chinese, great hamon>acid-etched sword - that I now use to chop down small trees in my yard. The best I can say about it after about 25 years is that is is sturdy & sharp. Save yourself some money & go buy some more books, attend your local sword club meetings, & soon enough you will have enough knowledge to buy what you will really treasure. Ken

No one has ever said that the NBTHK is consistent. Your confusion is shared with many others, Justin. Ken

Again, I'm just curious, Brian. I'm glad you've invested in books so you can make informed decisions on what you buy. I'm willing to bet that the blade is a Chinese fake. Ken