kissakai

I wouldn't touch it Lose the patina and you lose the history

They are very nice images What do you use as a background

Hi William Buying on the NMB is advised and save money on books at the same especially if for some else If you fancy one PM the seller and ask all the questions and if satisfied go ahead I haven't heard of a sword mis-described on the NMB but I suppose there are exceptions and genuine fakes I would expect anyone fraudulently selling items the would be removed ASAP If a seller adds a note to his item that states he wishes no comments then I would be wary. It still may be kosher but would raise some doubt to me personally

Thanks Thomas I build up more of picture as a whole and somewhere are some truths Maybe worth Shinsa so I'll look into it. Unfortunately Paul Martin hasn't visited the UK for a few years

Hi sabiji There you go

The spacers (seppa) are not difficult to make by using a thicker plate. Loads of info on the internet I had to make a couple and this made a big difference

Thanks Brian I'm still wearing a silly grin Although not proven there is a good chance that all the koshirae are original to the sword especially when looking at the papers (four in total) Don't possibly get more Ubu than that. A very good day today as heard this morning that Robert Haynes wants to buy one of my tsuba I'll also be bidding on a Japanese bronze later in the week Grev

I met up with Jon today and everything was as shown/described This (in my opinion) was a brilliant buy that I so pleased with and a smooth transaction and a pleasant few hours with someone not to far away Thanks Jon

Hi Luca I know how difficult an undertaking this can be so I applaud your post and PDF

Alex If you look at the video it will tell you a lot more

Hi Jon Often on the NMB there are people who have bought swords and then ask if they are real. This shouldn't happen when you see offers like this one How has this not been snapped up in the UK is beyond me You think it has everything then there even more I think I have enough swords but you can't believe how tempting this one is to me

Great write up - thanks As it your own work It may have helped make the mei images as large as possible as you are not restricted to there size Images are always better in colour but with so few examples I know you can't be fussy Will you be working on an other school?

Just tried a couple more but not too dissimilar from the previous set

I'm not sure if I see inazumi. There is some indication of a 'line' in the hamon but that may be wishful thinking I'll try and take a better picture of the hamon

Hi Stefan When posted before and people seeing it in hand their comments are below Mumei. Possibly Mito/Owari Shin-shinto. The hada is of itame and Mokume type. The hamon is a shallow midare/gunome in nioi deki. There is some evidence of activity such as sunagashi. It looks a bit like masame hada inside the hamon running through the hamon. The boshi is sugu and narrow. There is no kaeri evident. The nakago appears to be ubu and it is short and slightly funa-gata in appearance and ends in a ha-agari kurijiri. The polisher said that's it is a nice Tanto with lots of activity, the hamon at the kissaki is really unusual

I use a Canon EOS7000 with (usually) 18 - 55 Canon lens I only have three blades so I wouldn't buy a large light tent of extra lighting I'm just trying to get the best images using what I've already have I'm taking notes from this post and I'll keep trying but not with a ring light! I have a small light tent with two lights which I use for photographing my tsuba

Sorry to be repetitive - WOW Magical use of materials and patina

It all helps

Hi A couple of times a year I try to photograph a blade and always pretty rubbish I'm trying a ring flash and wondered if you see these as good or bad images Can they tell you anything about this tanto? I've seen some very impressive blade set ups but I just have the basic stuff I'm not looking for a school or maker just if they are useful as a record of this tanto You can be as hard as you like as I have a thick skin

Thanks Justin I take your points on board especially about the holes and I've amended my notes An interesting point about odoshi having a face It may be that the tare and hanpo from my set used different size odoshi! Do you think the odoshi I've used is acceptable for these low value items? What schoolboy errors do you see on my attempt at re-lacing?

I was referring to iaito only

I think this is a good idea and you don't have to pay mega bucks Especially if the tsuba has a theme you can relate to

Sorry about the title I previously ask for some advice and I've finished (?) my project I don't need any comments about the workmanship just any additional information that will help this type of project A synopsis is below but the PDF is correctly formatted I took this Tare to Mike Hickman-Smith to see if he knew someone who could re-lace it. After a bit of thought he said ‘why don't you do it yourself’? I knew how hard lacing could be, so I didn't relish the idea. I'm sure as you get older the 'just do it' hormone is pared right back. I asked a few people about me having a go and thought I'd try it Image in the PDF attached file I bought the odashi ge (cord) from Japan but one person thought that this was not the correct cord. I know there are differing grades of cord but this was OK for me http://www.morikk.jp/shop/products/detail/cn7/pg392542.html My old cord which had almost turned to dust Image in the PDF attached file Cord length As a beginner I had no idea how much cord to buy! I measured the cord before and after lacing one row. The lacing length of one row is 2.5” and the length of cord used was 16” so at least now you know how much to order. Advice from the NMB You need to prepare the lace by thinning out the ends into a point rub in glue to make your threading needles. You’ll need hundreds of little hidden support braces to flush out each himo appearance. I didn't do this part as there was no 'padding' under my old lacing The art of lacing armour is a lifelong learning skill. You need to suspend the mask and lames, you need to factor the spacing, and then cut your odoshi to the length you need. This is an image of one of my pieces that was restored by Dave Thatcher. You can see his rig and spacing/suspending technique. There are other ways to do this, but this way has also worked for me. Knockback from the NMB So, I'll write it hard when the others didn't have the courage. Any investment in this low level is a waste of money. Lacing diagram and tools used The process I started the re-lacing last week and finished yesterday. Although finding it difficult it was going OK until I had a phone call! After resuming the lacing, it was not until I got to the end of the first set, I realised I'd missed two holes. It was so tight I had to cut it off and will start again when my head is in the right place and have the patience which at my age tends to run out a bit too quick. Apart from the obvious error the next time I left some of the lacing quite loose, so I’d tighten it up at the end. The 'loose' idea was rubbish, so I removed the cord and started again. I tried again twice until I thought it was OK. First row completed. One person who has been a great help but wishes to remain anonymous said after I sent him the image below. Not the prettiest, but it's laced. You did OK for your first attempt. It does get easier. A perfectly reasonable reply. Part of the problem were that some of the holes were too small. I used an old button with a couple of different hole sizes to find the minimum size hole that accepted the cord. This was 2.5mm for my 7mm cord. The button was also a guide when making my 'needle'. If it passed through the button it would pass through the holes in my tare. I checked all the holes in the tare and some just needed a little clean up with a drill. The end result Image in the PDF attached file To sum up A beginners attempt which in my opinion is better than having those loose plates. If I undid all the lacing and relaced the tare it would look better and it’s something I may do but for now I’ve run out of cord. If I decide to replace this, I would need to know how to knot the end, keep it flat and where to tie it off. It may be better if the cord was a bit thicker. The grey area was the best method of tying off the cord at the end of a row. I ended up tying the ends of with a single knot with a touch of clear glue to keep it as flat as possible. I may tap the knot with a wooden punch to make it flatter. Mine did not have a knot at the bottom of the lacing and I wonder if the end of the cord is best tucked under the cross stitch a dab of glue before tightening it up as this will keep it hidden and flat Be patient and work in a well lite and clear space Ask for advice without being pushy. Remember this is possibly someones income source and tricks of the trade are hard learnt over may years of their trial and error If you look on YouTube and it mentions paracord then assume the information is worthless Don’t mess about with good quality armour Reflections I wonder what David Thatcher, Ian Bottomley, Bal and Mike Hickmans first attempts looked like and their thought process when starting out on the various types of restoration Image in the PDF attached file Help replies.pdf

Wonderful images and descriptions A great reference for sword blade features

Didn't think they would last long before a potential sale