Speck Of Rust

[bnacorda]

Hi guys,

 

I was cleaning and oiling one of my swords today and I see I very tiny brown dot on the blade. I paid special attention to it and oiled it thinking it was dirt then put it under a magnifying glass. Looks to be a very small rust spot. Not sure if it was there before but I hadn't noticed it. Blade is oiled and maintained. What's the advice going forward for something like this?

 

Thanks,

Ben

[TETSUGENDO]

Anytime you unsheathe one of your blades it should be cleaned and oiled before being put away.

 

-S-

[Blazeaglory]

I have spots like that on my Paul Chen. They look black but up close are a brownish color. They dont really grow or anything and I dont think its truly active rust but you never know

 

Just keep and eye on it. 

[ROKUJURO]

Ben,

there is a way to try to remove the rust spot with a pointed piece of ivory, bone or antler. A thin piece of pure copper will also work. These materials are softer than the steel of the blade and won't leave scratches.

In case you are not successful, there remains only the TOGISHI!  

[Katsujinken]

Ben,

 

there is a way to try to remove the rust spot with a pointed piece of ivory, bone or antler. A thin piece of pure copper will also work. These materials are softer than the steel of the blade and won't leave scratches.

 

In case you are not successful, there remains only the TOGISHI!  

 

 

But DON'T use a penny. Jean means pure copper. If you're unsure, nothing is the best thing to do.

[TETSUGENDO]

Heavy gauge copper wire, 6 gauge or smaller, is very useful for this purpose as it can be easily formed into shapes for various applications.

 

-S-

[ROKUJURO]

Yes, of course PURE copper! But very probably none of these methods can make the rust spot disappear without trace! Together with regular inspection and frequent (very light) oiling It is just a try to prevent the rust from spreading.   

[bnacorda]

Thanks for the advice everyone. At this point, I'm going to make sure its not active or spreading. I think its been there for a while since I do clean and oil it every time I look at it.

Its very small to the point that I have to look for it every time. Id rather not cause any damage or scratch it so will wait to see if I can borrow someone's deer antler at the next sword club meeting. If I can make it to Michael's this afternoon, might end up buying some copper wire or sheet. Thanks again!

[TETSUGENDO]

Ben,

 

You need a good old fashioned hardware store, electrical supply shop, or automotive supply for heavy gauge copper wire.  Forget Michaels, thin copper sheet or fine gauge wire are useless. I would think it is availble on line in many places, AAMOF Amazon is as likely a place as any.

 

-S-

[Stephen]

If you cant find any Pp me shipping and ill send you a 1" square of copper plate.

[Ed]

I would proceed very carefully.  I was given old pure copper coin decades ago for this purpose, it left marks.  Haven't used it since.

 

Maybe the dreaded uchiko would help here, being an abrasive powder. Gentle application might remove the rust depending upon the severity. ??

[bnacorda]

Thanks for the offer Stephen. As long as its not active and not getting bigger, I'll just leave it alone for now. All the Orchards Hardware stores closed nearby so I'll have to go to the mom and pop hardware store sometime this coming week. I don't want my impatience to get the best of me and start scratching away at it. Its very small. Keeping it oiled and clean. 

 

Hi Ed, I cleaned it with uchiko but it didn't come off. Didn't want to do anymore than that. I have a couple of "copper" coins too but I don't know if its actually copper or not. This is making me practice my patience anyway. 

[Guest Rayhan]

Hi Ben

 

With even small amounts of rust the best option is to have a polisher look at the sword and evaluate the need for restoration. But, we don't all have a togishi within arms reach so the next option is to use (as some have pointed out already) the Uchiko powder.

 

To use the Uchiko, first wipe all residual oil from the sword. Then using a cotton bud (Qtip) apply isopropyl to the rust area to prep the surface and remove microscopic traces of oil, only in this section where the rust is.

 

Then prepare a mix of choji oil and uchiko powder in a small bowl or small glass dish. (You will be tapping away with the uchiko pouch for a while but it is better than trying to open the pouch (never, ever open the pouch forcefully and when using uchiko please wear a mask). So, oil and uchiko in mix, dip a cotton bud in the mix and gently begin to slide the cotton bud in the area affected by rust. Do not do circular motions and do not move from ha to mune, keep the pressure consistent following the same movements in the direction of kissaki to hamachi but only in the rust area.

 

It will take time but the rust will leave.

 

Every few applications you will need to renew the oil/uchiko mix. You will also need to check progress by wiping away the mix and using isopropyl once again to see the result.

 

Once finished, re-oil the sword properly before letting it rest in shirasaya.

 

The area you work on will take a lighter colour for a few months.

 

*this method is for tiny areas of rust and red rust in particular. It should not be used on freshly polished swords.

[Guido]

One of my other hobbies is brain surgery. I’m self trained, and learned most of my skills from the internet, especially the NMB (Neurosurgeon Message Board). I mean, why would people waste money on a trained professional when the pituitary gland can be removed with just a few quick cuts of the scalpel? Just make sure to use sharp knifes, and always wear a surgical mask!

[Guest Rayhan]

Guido...are you comparing brain surgery to removing a spec of rust...? Really?

[kissakai]

He is just taking the micky!

In English 'horses for courses'

[Guest Rayhan]

He is just taking the micky!

In English 'horses for courses'

I know but the mechanics are slightly different ????

[Stephen]

I think we're making a mountain out of a speck.

[Blazeaglory]

I think we're making a mountain out of a speck.

How true haha

[seattle1]

Hello:

 If you have just a speck of rust that stands proud of the blade surface, and the surrounding area is in polish, it is very unlikely that use of the right penny will scratch anything. Of course practice on something out of sight, perhaps under a habaki, to prove it to yourself first. The US penny 1797-1959 is 100 % copper, but likely to cost far too much. The British penny, 1961-1970 is 97 % copper and if not of collector condition can be had for four bits or so from a coin dealer. Current US pennies 1983 to now are from 2.5% to zero copper except for a light plating and of no use for the above.

 Arnold F.

[TETSUGENDO]

Arnold,

 

Your post should read U.S. penny was 100% copper from 1793 to 1857.  Typo no doubt. 

 

-S-

[seattle1]

Hello:

 Thanks, typo indeed.

 Arnold F.

[drbvac]

The methods to remove a spot of rust using a softer material really only apply to a rusted area that is higher than the surface of the blade. A rust spot that is in a pit or lower area of the blade will be very hard to pick out and all you will do is scratch the surrounding steel all to hell and make the whole area a mess requiring a toshigi for sure - leave it alone.

[Blazeaglory]

Honestly if its not red or growing just oil the sword and keep an eye on it. It happens from time to time in carbon blades. I think some call them "pepper spots"?

 

But yeah, trying to fix it yourself will probably just makes things worse.

[Surfson]

I have had "stains" like that that came out with acetone, followed by uchiko.