DoTanuki yokai

Thank you guys it really means much to me. I did not spend much time making my template/guide and I liked the straight offset lines it made with the “outside” side. So actually this small tool can create 4 different patterns. For me the hardest part was getting the patina right and I started over and over again for weeks untill I thought it was acceptable. Thanks Ford for making so much of your knowledge available and finally , I would like to say that the work has changed my view of tsuba in general.

I wasnt sure how you guys would react and I’m very happy that you like it so far. They have some flaws that are visible in the pictures but I won’t point them out as they could be interpreted as done on purpose. The first Tsuba is for one (i think) exception made after Ford Hallams YouTube Hosa Kusa Tutorial. I don’t had renaissance wax and used Seshime Urushi to seal the patina. After I finished the first one someone asked me what I would engrave on it, that hit me hard and I wasn’t sure if it looks to plain. I was a long time struggling with the idea of making the Hitsu Ana bigger or not. This would fit the Higo style probably better ? After I have a lot of unfinished project I decided to stick with my design and move on. For the 2nd Tsuba with the pine tree I made some test engravings of the full tree on brass but was kind of a waste of time since the copper feels very different.

I know who posted the picture but I don’t want to call him out because he is a real good guy I think

The 2nd one must be made by someone that can not even barely hold a chisel. They are around 7,6cm in diameter and the first weight 108g and the 2nd 116g. When I saw the pictures on my Computer I have realized that taking the pictures in the box hides the Nakagoana What do you think about them ? The 15€ was for the copper I used to make them. I thought this was a good exercise in working with copper and actually it is a very relaxing activity. Thanks for Looking

The big dealers have special conditions with UPS for example that allows them to send swords. Many shipping services won’t send swords and because of the Ukraine war EMS that shipped swords stopped many flight routes. This is what it was last year and I don’t know if something has changed.

But then I can see a similar appearance on this blade https://www.aoijapan...the-66th-juyo-token/ . Now I would think it could be the result of a complex construction like San Mai or something else, not a flaw If it really is a Naotane it could be a good buy but it would be to much unnecessary head scratch for me.

Can we also see the last Kanji of the signature ? What I see is 宇多國 but there is only the first strokes of the last Kanji on your picture. Nice find so far but I can’t add anything on the Koshirae. Edit: Geraint was faster while I was also unable to find a match for the Bonji

Mumei, if it really is a Naotane it wasn’t good enough for him so why should it be good enough for me Here is my highly speculative guess without seeing the blade in hand why it is so cheap and unsigned. The picture we have show a lighter color close to the edge what I would interpret as softer then the part above , it could be the result of taking to long from the fire to the quench in my opinion. It could just be the light on the convex surface of the edge but it looks to me it is visible on both pictures. Sorry for the bad smartphone edits. Also no Horimono and the Kaeri seems to be only a fog of Nioi what I only want to see on old blades. The Hadori seems to make a good job making the Hamon look more organized. If I’m wrong in my observation please feel free to correct me or share your opinion. Edit: The polish also got some ugly spots.

I follow him on Instagram since he began I think and I’m very impressed when I see how much he tries and experiment to improve his cases. (Reducing reflections on the Glas and stuff like that) Also I love his Tsuba case with the mirror to see both sides of the Tsuba. Latest picture from his Instagram profile. Im not a Tsuba guy but this Hirata Hikozo Tsuba in the middle looks really nice

I don’t think that the Yasuri need to be done with a file when Ford is actually doing it with a scraper in his Video or do I miss something ? I would want to see both sides of every Tsuba before I say something but even then I’m not an expert. I think every Tsuba should feel nice in the hand and there should be no edges that can catch your clothes.

Looks non-Japanese to me, who is the smith ?

I look at the pictures over and over again and I think the Horimono are more likely bad then polished out so much. The next problem I think I see is the polish or the pictures. What makes the blade bad quality is the very weak hamon in the middle of the blade that is visible. But I’m not even sure how much of the Hamon is actually real the blade looks for my like it was worked on to trick someone with Acid and all together but could be the pictures. I would say it is suriage but I’m also not sure with the pictures. Also I don’t see any measurements of the blade. How thick and long is it ? Maybe a picture that shows how much thicker the Nakago then the blade is would be nice.

If you work with urushi you should always have some oil (I use cheap sunflower oil) near to clean it from your skin because water won’t wash it off. I always wear gloves and sometimes I get it on my skin but never had a reaction. I’m not sure if I’m allergic I never tried on purpose to find out. But actually the cashew in the lacquer is only there because what they take from the cashew nut shell is cheaper then the synthetic alternative. I have never used cashew lacquer but I think it is like most Polyurethane based lacquer ?

When looking at it I can imagine that what looks like nanakonuri is just the appearance of the lower and foundation layers that come to surface irregulary but I can’t really see much in the picture. For your question i would say do it in the style you are familiar with and don’t stick to the old design. At this point you will have to lacquer the complete saya and I would make the horn parts in same or fitting color. I don’t know what color for the Saya would be fitting with unlacquered horn. What kind of lacquer do you plan to use ?

The pictures does not show what I would be looking for in an Awaraguchi blade but the price is much lower then I would expect for it. I wonder how the blades description avoid the term Nashiji. I always cringe a little when someone talks about Awataguchi and Nashiji thinking the Ji is of the Nashi.

I have expected much worse but it really looks like a nice sword but not like Masamune indeed. The Kinpunmei also looks well done but relatively new. A very similar sword with Masamune Kinpunmei and not waterproof provenance for being owned by some famous WW2 Admiral was sold for ~12k€ some years ago.

Living in Europe and too lazy to use a vpn i can’t see the listing. Can someone post a picture of the Masamune so i can also have some fun ?

Actually as Ko-Uda I think TokuHo would be no problem in my opinion but your attribution says end of Nanbokucho to Oei period I think. (?) Just from what I have seen it is seldom that the Ko Uda get an attribution to a certain smith. With this attribution I don’t know what would happen In my Opinion all blades from Nanbokucho and older should have TokuHo or I would start looking for reasons why not (flaws).

I remember this blade I think it could fit here.

Grind it flat and get some plain fittings

Nice blade, I also don’t think it is a katzuuchimono. From what I have seen blades with Shobu Zukuri have less tapering in Mihaba what makes them heavier what speaks also against a cheap sword. Does the Boshi turn back ? On the pictures it looks like it don’t, what gives the appearance of Naginata Naoshi but the Nakago looks Ubu. I would say nice find and I love the strong looking Sugata. How long is the Blade ?

To my untrained eye they look like pure gold and of high quality. I look at how thin it is and that alone is a sign for quality and I wonder why they would make it this thin when it is not gold.

“Inaba no shiro usagi” is the theme with the hare jumping over the waves I think.

Looks like something Yamato related but I can’t say more without seeing the Nioiguchi and Jinie. I think The guide from Darcy is a little complicated and will in the end not give what I (we) are looking for. I like this one more http://www.ksky.ne.jp/~sumie99/hamon.html also look at this http://www.ksky.ne.j...ie99/appreciate.html Edit: also a picture that shows the bare blade from directly above it so we can see how it curves is useful.

Maybe Tadamitsu 忠光 or Nagamitsu 長光 but the first kanji is just a guess could also be Mune. Looks like a nice blade do you have the size of the cutting edge, it looks like a big Hira Zukuri Wakizashi. The engraved sign is a Bonji(Sanskrit) but don’t remember it from seeing now. Edit: It looks authentic but is shortned it is called Suriage and common on many old blades. I think this blade was made in the Muromachi period.