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DoTanuki yokai

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Everything posted by DoTanuki yokai

  1. You could post a picture of the full blade without Habaki, so we can see the shape. But there is no unique ww2 Sugata and most look like older shapes what makes it hard to judge the age without seeing clear pictures of the polished steel. example of Sugata picture
  2. I don’t know but the blades look good, maybe not what they claim but who knows. 6 days left, we will see where this goes.
  3. The position of the moon in relation to Fujiyama depends on the province from where the swordsmith is looking at it. Maybe this is a joke but it will require further research.
  4. http://www.ksky.ne.j...ie99/appreciate.html if you go through the pages information part alot more information can be found. Your pictures show the steel pattern well but i wont be sure if the the "rough" parts are more influenced by the folding or the hardening. You will need to adjust your angle to the light to see the effects of the hardening work. When you do it like this in most cases you wont see everything at all but the most will happen around the reflection of your light source. I will try to explain what you can look for with pictures from Aoiart of a Hizen Naginata. Now you "play" with the relfection of the light and different things will be visible close to it. 1. This is actually the first thing i would check if i look at the Hamon of a blade. Is this Nioi or Nie Deki ? (I will answer this later in case you want to guess yourself) 2. Around the reflection of the light on the Ji you can see the Ji-Nie. In this case the surface is full of uniform reflecting little dots what is known as the Konuka Hada of Hizento. 3. Look how wide the Hamon is , this could be part of point 1. This varys much from wide Hamon of Soshu blades to very thin Yokoyama school Hamon for example. 4. There are some Ashi that are not very long and dont go down to the edge, they make this Suguha based Hamon more a Ko Midare in my opnion. These are part of the activitys in the Hamon called Hataraki. (the disconnected from the Hamon Ashi is actually a Yo) https://markussesko.com/kantei/ Hamon and boshi#1 of this articles will get into much more detail about this and all the other articles there are also full of useful Information. What i explain here is in my opinion why Hadori is the standard but many dislike it that dont understand this. I think it is this Omote and Ura thing where you have to invest some time with the blade in the right light to see what it hides. Hope this is of some help and easier to understand then the books are.
  5. I think it would nice display with the Fuji and moon in the Hamon. The condition of the polish looks not that bad and maybe it could also be a cheaper study piece if the price is correct. (Not sure how the condition of the polish really is) I would say the damage is from hitting something hard. The Saya has no hole what makes it more unlikely for me to be hit by a bullet. It is Ubu and signed so there is maybe no need for NBTHK papers anyway.
  6. DoTanuki yokai

    Hirazogan

    Thanks Manuel, this answers even a lot of questions that I would have asked at a later point.
  7. DoTanuki yokai

    Hirazogan

    One of mine but I was so disgusted by the square shape that I abused this piece for experimenting. I did my “Greece style” engraving with a “Hakobori” chisel (don’t know if this is the right name) and would like to ask if this would be also done with a “Hakobori” if I want to inlay wire in it ? This is wood in the first picture by Vajo, right ?
  8. https://Japan-forwar...Japanese-swords/amp/ maybe this is also of some help
  9. Not much going on here… I like the Tsuba and think it could profit from some rust removal with a piece of antler, only rub of the red rust. I don’t know much about how to clean the Fuchi Kashira but I would try to get rid of the green stuff. Maybe antler can do the trick again but i would ask in the tosogu section how to do it. The blades condition can be improve with regualary cleaning with uchiko and oil but don’t ask me how long this takes. To make a guess about the age we would need to see the Sugata of the blade in a picture like this without the mounts and Habaki. (It does not need to be both sides but need to see the complete blade.) Edit: I just assumed the signature is Gimei because you did not say anything about papers. If it is shoshin and you want to hear something about the blade the pictures need to be better Also some dimensions would be helpful to understand what we see. How long is the blade ?
  10. Would say Shin Shinto and the shape looks like a Minamoto Masao sword but I’m not saying it could be one.
  11. I’m looking forward to see more of your project! Can you tell us who are the craftsman that you work with ? I think beeing over 1,80m is not that common in Japan as it is in the US or Europe.
  12. Both swords look like they got an amateur polish, the shinogi and everything looks round. I would stay away from these.
  13. The blade is signed Bishu Osafune Tadamitsu the rabbit on the Fuchi Kashira could be the white rabbit of Inaba jumping over the waves. I can’t see much of the blade but with the Signature and size I would say it is from late Muromachi period. Edit: just saw the Date, I think it is Bunmei 3 the 2nd month = February 1471
  14. Not every Koitame or Komokume or mujifu is Nashiji and I read it more and more often here. Here are some stuff to think about http://www.ksky.ne.j...shigeappearance.html at the end of the page comes a link to this page that is also worth to read I think http://www.ksky.ne.j...sumie99/nashiji.html
  15. I wouldn’t ask collectors but the artists themself if they have ever made a perfect piece
  16. My thought was just if this shape of the Nakago Ana has for what ever reason a relation to the whole design it wouldn’t be a problem to make these look identical for someone who can make such a Tsuba.
  17. I don’t get why identical Nakago Ana is a proof for casting while the same Nakago finish on a blade is part of the swordsmiths signature and any difference would be considered suspicious ?
  18. If I would need to say something based only on that picture it is a hair. It is only visible on one side and not in the hardned area and does not look like ware. I think a scratch would reflect more light.
  19. I would say better save than sorry Jussi Baba Yaga i think the Swordsmith index gives only the main working period and knowing this I think the information is worth it.
  20. Hi Jon, can you share pictures of the blade or a link where it can be seen ? Thanks
  21. From my own experience how a blade is hardend can change nearly all of its appearance from color of steel to nioi or nie and the appearance of the forging pattern. I don’t have enough examples yet to say something with confidence but hardned a Tanto twice with very different outcomes or 2 small blades that I made from the same piece of Tamahagane but they look totally different because one was quenched with clay and the other without it. Im not a professional smith and lack the years of experience to say that I quenched the blades at the same temperature or if the water had the same temperature because I all do this with my amateur senses. Also my polish is some self invented stuff with artificial stones that is also very time consuming when done right but that’s what I don’t have I would stay with this in the Izakaya when it would be some controversial new thing but all this is described also by Mukansa smiths in the „Modern Japanese Swords and Swordsmiths: From 1868 to the present“ book in the interviews.
  22. Kanefusa but I will check some more and come back if I find someone. I have researched this some time ago but I never make notes of anything.
  23. After seeing this blade with the same signature with too much differences I changed my opinion and go back to „look at the blade not the signature attitude“. https://www.k-sword.com/product/伯耆守平朝臣正幸诚意咨价/
  24. Hoki kami Taira Ason Masayuki Date looks like: kansei 3 ( 1792) in February. Looks shoshin to me
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