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parfaitelumiere

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Everything posted by parfaitelumiere

  1. both shapes identical, makes me think of one I saw on yahoo and exactly same as one someone shared here some months ago. high detail cast, would require larger pictures of the second one to get better idea.
  2. good For me it looks like six real kozuka have been used and mounted as dinner knives or forks.
  3. how is the back side? These kozuka seem to be good, ost fo the times, low quality ones used for cutlery were identical on both sides.
  4. quelles sont les dimensions de ton fourreau? Je suis en France, j'ai peut-être un fourreau qui correspondrait.
  5. you can check 2 tsuka from same seller, one has drgon menuki, at first view, quality is not bad.
  6. The first set looks nice, second all the details look like faded, and the gold color looks weird, I don't know if cast, or just old, but with new patina and gold plating...
  7. I can confirm these are not cast, eyes are solid gold and silver is foil. When I made golden eyes on a tsuba , I used same technic, a hole, a gold wire and a nanako pinch and you get same result. The silver was very dark when I got it and I cleaned it. The inner size has the copper part with 4 small sheets and all is hold together with some soldering. I have seen, owned and even modified cast stuff, and this set is not.
  8. Hello, I have this menuki set, and thinking about goto Eijo, I saw a similar set, same theme, birds are quite similar even water is very different. But I also saw a water and reef kozuka with goto eiho sigh, and the water is very similar to my menuki set. What do you think about it?! Second picture is a fitting with goto eijo NBTHK attribution.
  9. the parts are inlaid, the inner is flat, I have another with chrysanthemus theme and parts are also inlaid, but other with takabori technic. I saw the details when I took the pictures.
  10. I am not sure, but the name is maybe hirazogan for the inlay, making no relief, with katakiri engraving, like brush painting. This is takazogan, making relief inlay:
  11. I just bought this, was thinking about ko-kinko, design looks very early. I was first thinking about a several layers item, but it seems to be solid, I don't have the tsuba in hand for now, so it's possible the decorative layer to be very thin, and explaining why it seems to be solid on seller pictures. What is strange is the other side, plain, meanign the other decorative plate has been lost or removed?! Size is about 65mm round, and 2,9mm thick.
  12. It could be considered as a nanban tsuba, as it's a chinese made for exportation, and if the nanban term could include actual work....joke.
  13. A better shot of my sword guard. The size is 78x73x6mm The seppa dai is 33x21mm There is a older rectangular cut remain, meaning the guard would be previously mounted on a non Japanese sword. I like it, and I like how it will fit with my goto dragon fittings.
  14. About what I want to make, I already jave the fittings and tsuba now.
  15. I just won this one at auction, the work looks quite good and there are no hitsu ana, I like it. It may complete my goto style dragon tosogu f-k and menuki set.
  16. For international paypal is good. For trustable contact, let's say, in Japan, it's valuable, as you pay a very low fee for money transfer, it's immediate and safe, as f&f. As seller, it's not the same game, more expensive. Also, one bothering thing, issue we got together Stephen and me, is I completely forgot two things: -adding fees, I didn't want to add fees in my sale price, as I am considering it's money I am accepting to loose, but I will think about it for now. -not telling a exchange rate using paypal calculator, by simulating a payment, because the rate is different from one way to another, this is the issue we got, I told a price in USD to help calculating, when he asked me the USD price, using paypal rate we have here (about 1.10$ for 1€), what I forgot, is the rate is different on other side, he paid 1.18$ for 1€, making paying the USD price I was thinking to be right, bu making me losing too much, as I am not fortunated, I had to refund, not possible to loose money for me. I am sorry for that. So, I think knowing the paypal too well, it's a good tool, but needs to think twice about how it works.
  17. I sent you email. Price, depending on time it takes, probably about 100 to 150$. If you already have the tsuka and fittings, make a measurment of distance from hamachi to seppa, when all fitting are in place. If you only have blade and saya, you still have the choice, depending on thickness of various elements, but it would be better to get mekugi hole on first losange on ura side, this is my taste and it seems to be the most common choice. the distance between mekugi ana and hamachi looks quite short, meaning quite short habaki and short fuchi too.
  18. not as good, 3D printer has many defects especially scanning, I remember at the dental workshop I was, we had many issues with the technology. However, a katana blade will bring less issues than dental work, too much gap won't bring so much issues and too stiff fit and required pressure won't make the teeth explode, so 3D printing can be another way, even a 2 components silicone is much cheaper than a 3D scanner.
  19. hum I understand better now, the silver waves remeinded me something but didn't care so much about it.
  20. it can be possible to make a cast of your blade area, using lets tell, 2 components silicon paste, this will provide a way to get a casting of the area from pu resin, then it can be a way to make a habaki fitting PU resin wothout shipping the blade via posts, the best would be to get a few centimeters of the tang, and a few centimeters of the blade. Providing motohaba, motokasane, hamachi and munemchi is not enough, because the shinogi height ratio, the ji shape and curvature, the exact position of both machi can vary even providing same measurments. it can be possible to modify existing habaki for a blade, but it's very difficult. Making a new one on existing polished blade is also a tricky operation because it can bring damages, this is why I am thinking about csting the tang and first blade centimeters, it can provide a blade replica that doesn't fear to be damaged I see you also have the saya, meaning a cast of the saya along 3cm or more would be required too. I may be able to make a habaki if you provide the casting, kinkise, I can't, brass or copper, I can, using a thick layer, forging etc, not so hard to make. The shape copy process is used everyday for dental repair, so it could be used for Japanese sword market.
  21. I read page 2, saw the yahoo link, and watched details of both tsuba. Unless the tsuba on sale on yahoo is exactly yours, and it's not, it would explain why the carving details are identical. But it's not, because some casting defect on seppa dai on reverse side are different. The filing lines, engraving, and pinching are strictly identical, and this is impossible, even the ishimei pinching is identical, that is impossible, unless both tsuba would have been high precision casts.
  22. My first thougt when I saw it was "nice engraving on cast stuff", makes me think about something I own, often see, a eagle or falcon on a pine branch, and two plovers on bottom, quite rough finish on mine, but it also makes me think about some meiji dragon, snake and other well made brass tsuba. Then I saw the first comments, starting to think, "ok I was wrong, but really had a meiji or taisho taste, wouldn't think it was modern poor thing", weird.
  23. Here is a repair I made on a song period marine excavated bowl. When I got it, the rim was damaged and underside was fully white. I cleaned it, with needle and other hand tools, and kept a coral foot as a proof, and mde lacquer repair.
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