Jump to content

parfaitelumiere

Members
  • Content Count

    142
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    1

parfaitelumiere last won the day on March 1 2018

parfaitelumiere had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

65 Good

About parfaitelumiere

  • Rank
    Jo Saku

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Not Telling
  • Location:
    france

Profile Fields

  • Name
    patrice

Recent Profile Visitors

165 profile views
  1. This is my example of udenuki no ana in collection. And a simplier design from same smith (myochin ki yoshishige) I have a question, I saw several early tsuba with only one hole on bottom, not two, one seemed to be a kokinko, not sure, but looked old, the other was an iron, but with ganmaku later add, and from what I remember, ganmaku was popular during momoyama period, so it means the tsuba would be older, and it also had one single hole on bottom, maybe it's for same purpose, and then fashion changed, two holes were more efficient than only one?!
  2. Hello I am looking for a used good condition saya, about 70cm long, and 2,3cm zori, Looking for used one, not newly made and I don't want to get one custom made. I already have a good saya, but there is a slot for a kogai and other fittings are not designed for a kogai katana, so I don't want to put a kogai on it, and I would prefer not to modify it, because it's in very good condition. I hope someone can have a good saya.
  3. sadly these are phone camer pictures, not hi resolution pictures, maybe you can ask someone you know who has some material, would be very interesting to study the old polish, was this a hadori or not, it seems hadori finish is not very old process, so I was asking myself what kind of finish was used during edo meiji period.
  4. that's interesting because I try to collect old bonsai and gardening tools I had no idea about how the mount was supposed to be. These scissors I use almost everyday, would require dissassembly to remove the pin, and make better adjustment, because these are old and used.
  5. hello, I wanted to know more about this kind of blade and it's use. Is it used for gardening or flower cutting? I have one like this, purchased as very damaged blade, and after polishing it got temperline and even decorative temperline, like some kogatana can have (waves and dots), it seems that blade could also have wave and dots in the ji.
  6. could be interesting to take high res pics of the polish, as this polish seems to be very old. The rust doesn't seem to be so deep, good piece, just needing a pole now.
  7. yes exactly, it makes me think of the antique european spindle watches, many had several cases, and some gold or silver cases were sold and melt. But getting the original shirasaya, tsunagi and koshirae, it's already a good thing.
  8. but changing shape is not taking a picture, makes me thing of the horrible computing to make a wide angle lens picture look square, this is not good. I took a look at 100% on the aoi Japan,one pixel is four pixel, making the real size half the actual file size. Easy to see when displayed at 100% you can see large pixels, and once you make a 50% display, you get full resolution. Btw the informations on your link are very interesting. I made new attempts to shoot complete blades, not yet what I want: the picture is 4200 px in size, taken from about 5 meters high, black silk velvet as background, this is the darkest background I found for now. Sadly it tends to take the dust, and everything very easy, from thousands of pictures, only a very few got a pure black background without post treatment. I used the 180 macro lens, on a old 6D camera, hand held, 400 iso 1/320 F 9, hand held no stab used, automatic focus, but using the wall as support to get less blurr. No way to get the black shinogi ji, i would need a specific built, but can be done, same for better quality, upgrade the camera, and use a fixed display, to reduce iso and remove blurr, also could be possible to make the hand focus, best would be wired to computer or ipad, because ipad screen is far better than camera screen, remote works very well, because you can manage the focus much better, and you can have live view, zooming and know the exact result in live. This 180 lens is very good, the camera is a bit old now, a new one would get much better results.
  9. I was thinking about scan too but it' very strange as the work is perfect, and not blurry, most of times, scan are ok with flat piece close to the glass, but as there is relief, 3D shape, as you get away from the glass, it's getting blurry. So my guess is more a photography. I saw their 7000 px long pictures are in fact 3500 px long pictures, far easier to take, I will make attempts, it needs a high light box with a hole on top to the camera, a black background under the blade, and some white and black reflectors, whote for mune to put it visible, black for shinogiji to put them dark, that was the process I made for my blade, also not put the blade parallel to camera, but a very bit off, so the hamon gets lighter through the hadori, and also, much easier to get the black shinogi ji, as the camera and black reflector are not exactly on same axis. most easy would be light box, with white walls and completely black roof and floor, mains issue is the focal lenght, if I use my 180mm I have to get about 4,8m away from blade for a full picture, and using the 85mm I still have to be about 2m away, if I use the 50mm, the shape will be really off.*In this specific cas the eos remote function can be very useful!
  10. you're right, for now and until I find someone to do it better, it will stay like this.
  11. I bought this sword 4 years ago. Uchigatana blade signed "munehisa" ,there is a 1cm suriage. Nagasa is 61cm Damn, taking pictures is very hard, I don't know how do aoi Japan to take 7500 px large perfect pictures of their blades...I used black reflector for shinogi, and white reflector for mune, but hardest part is to catch the temperline details, especially with this hadori polish... I have several issues with that polish, don't like the hadori in general, but this one has strong needle on shinogi, hard uchigumori on jihada, making it very hard to see and looking like defects everywhere, even there are some core steel spotsvisible (bottom picture) and last but not least, the hazuya finish, I hate this, do you think it should be interesting to make a new finish, hadori or not, but more subtile and mastered stone choice? Very very superficial rust on the shinogi, can be removed probably just my new uchigumori finish.
  12. what is strange is I read about zori variation, from strong koshizori in kamakura period to sakizori on late muromachi period, I took a look at several mihara, especially a very nice very large picture I found on aoijapan (btw, how do they take these wonderful pics?!) and that one is toriizori, I also read that mikara can be confused ith other yamato schools from same period, and last I saw the identical menuki with hozon papers, one saying west other saying east... About the hada, it seems the polish is not that good, I have other swords from same seller, and the uchigumori is too hard on my sword, making hada look like forging flaws, but polish has a cost. As this blade is in fact a daisho, with matching shirasaya and koshirae, I will take pictures, ask advices here before doing anything ,except finding tsuba set for them, I didn't buy the tsuba, were recently fitted san mai kinko, not very interesting stuff, the first sword I bought, same problem, koshirae and shirasaya were good, but mismatched tsuba, original probably lost, but I'm still kucky the shirasaya and koshirae were old matching set. I admit I have few knowledge only.
  13. I like this seller he is honnest purchased some tosogu from him, veery good. About papers, I saw some yellow papered "shishi on a ken" menuki from east coast, and EXACTLY the same menuki, outer and inner, but a different set, yellow papered as west coast....
×
×
  • Create New...