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parfaitelumiere

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Everything posted by parfaitelumiere

  1. sadly these are phone camer pictures, not hi resolution pictures, maybe you can ask someone you know who has some material, would be very interesting to study the old polish, was this a hadori or not, it seems hadori finish is not very old process, so I was asking myself what kind of finish was used during edo meiji period.
  2. that's interesting because I try to collect old bonsai and gardening tools I had no idea about how the mount was supposed to be. These scissors I use almost everyday, would require dissassembly to remove the pin, and make better adjustment, because these are old and used.
  3. hello, I wanted to know more about this kind of blade and it's use. Is it used for gardening or flower cutting? I have one like this, purchased as very damaged blade, and after polishing it got temperline and even decorative temperline, like some kogatana can have (waves and dots), it seems that blade could also have wave and dots in the ji.
  4. could be interesting to take high res pics of the polish, as this polish seems to be very old. The rust doesn't seem to be so deep, good piece, just needing a pole now.
  5. yes exactly, it makes me think of the antique european spindle watches, many had several cases, and some gold or silver cases were sold and melt. But getting the original shirasaya, tsunagi and koshirae, it's already a good thing.
  6. but changing shape is not taking a picture, makes me thing of the horrible computing to make a wide angle lens picture look square, this is not good. I took a look at 100% on the aoi Japan,one pixel is four pixel, making the real size half the actual file size. Easy to see when displayed at 100% you can see large pixels, and once you make a 50% display, you get full resolution. Btw the informations on your link are very interesting. I made new attempts to shoot complete blades, not yet what I want: the picture is 4200 px in size, taken from about 5 meters high, black silk velvet as background, this is the darkest background I found for now. Sadly it tends to take the dust, and everything very easy, from thousands of pictures, only a very few got a pure black background without post treatment. I used the 180 macro lens, on a old 6D camera, hand held, 400 iso 1/320 F 9, hand held no stab used, automatic focus, but using the wall as support to get less blurr. No way to get the black shinogi ji, i would need a specific built, but can be done, same for better quality, upgrade the camera, and use a fixed display, to reduce iso and remove blurr, also could be possible to make the hand focus, best would be wired to computer or ipad, because ipad screen is far better than camera screen, remote works very well, because you can manage the focus much better, and you can have live view, zooming and know the exact result in live. This 180 lens is very good, the camera is a bit old now, a new one would get much better results.
  7. I was thinking about scan too but it' very strange as the work is perfect, and not blurry, most of times, scan are ok with flat piece close to the glass, but as there is relief, 3D shape, as you get away from the glass, it's getting blurry. So my guess is more a photography. I saw their 7000 px long pictures are in fact 3500 px long pictures, far easier to take, I will make attempts, it needs a high light box with a hole on top to the camera, a black background under the blade, and some white and black reflectors, whote for mune to put it visible, black for shinogiji to put them dark, that was the process I made for my blade, also not put the blade parallel to camera, but a very bit off, so the hamon gets lighter through the hadori, and also, much easier to get the black shinogi ji, as the camera and black reflector are not exactly on same axis. most easy would be light box, with white walls and completely black roof and floor, mains issue is the focal lenght, if I use my 180mm I have to get about 4,8m away from blade for a full picture, and using the 85mm I still have to be about 2m away, if I use the 50mm, the shape will be really off.*In this specific cas the eos remote function can be very useful!
  8. you're right, for now and until I find someone to do it better, it will stay like this.
  9. I bought this sword 4 years ago. Uchigatana blade signed "munehisa" ,there is a 1cm suriage. Nagasa is 61cm Damn, taking pictures is very hard, I don't know how do aoi Japan to take 7500 px large perfect pictures of their blades...I used black reflector for shinogi, and white reflector for mune, but hardest part is to catch the temperline details, especially with this hadori polish... I have several issues with that polish, don't like the hadori in general, but this one has strong needle on shinogi, hard uchigumori on jihada, making it very hard to see and looking like defects everywhere, even there are some core steel spotsvisible (bottom picture) and last but not least, the hazuya finish, I hate this, do you think it should be interesting to make a new finish, hadori or not, but more subtile and mastered stone choice? Very very superficial rust on the shinogi, can be removed probably just my new uchigumori finish.
  10. what is strange is I read about zori variation, from strong koshizori in kamakura period to sakizori on late muromachi period, I took a look at several mihara, especially a very nice very large picture I found on aoijapan (btw, how do they take these wonderful pics?!) and that one is toriizori, I also read that mikara can be confused ith other yamato schools from same period, and last I saw the identical menuki with hozon papers, one saying west other saying east... About the hada, it seems the polish is not that good, I have other swords from same seller, and the uchigumori is too hard on my sword, making hada look like forging flaws, but polish has a cost. As this blade is in fact a daisho, with matching shirasaya and koshirae, I will take pictures, ask advices here before doing anything ,except finding tsuba set for them, I didn't buy the tsuba, were recently fitted san mai kinko, not very interesting stuff, the first sword I bought, same problem, koshirae and shirasaya were good, but mismatched tsuba, original probably lost, but I'm still kucky the shirasaya and koshirae were old matching set. I admit I have few knowledge only.
  11. I like this seller he is honnest purchased some tosogu from him, veery good. About papers, I saw some yellow papered "shishi on a ken" menuki from east coast, and EXACTLY the same menuki, outer and inner, but a different set, yellow papered as west coast....
  12. This is typical from french auction houses, very bad response, and focusing on the wrong things, but the main issue is they don't commission specific photographers, I offered my services to 2 local auction houses, never got a reply... This can be very good as a buyer, Very bad as a seller, selling tsuba and asian stuff in a big auction house "aguttes", also natural pearl necklaces, I lost money, bad pictures, very late picture shown before the sale, their asian art expert didn't know anything about Japanese art, told me "I m good about chinese not Japanese", so I show him chinese stuff, a ming era "blanc de chine" and a quianlong zitan tray, he was as bad as Japanese stuff, I lost money on my sales....about the pearls, the comissioner is supposed to be "expert" but she didn't wnt to take any responsability, so I lost money... But as a buyer it can be very good, I made some good bargains, ivory christs, natural pearl necklaces, some asian stuff too, can be very interesting, but YOU have to be the expert and play by your rules for reselling.
  13. Hello, I purchased a blade described as sue mihara, hozon. Lenght is 68cm, 29mm motohaba, I tried to find some comparative pictures of other blades described as sue mihara, but the curvature looks strange, koshizori to my eye. Bades from pictures, not received the blade yet, I will try to make better pictures once in hand.
  14. your seppa may be a second hand used seppa, and the inner has been hammered to fit a smaller tang size. It seems it's not necessary "the biggest seppa on habaki side" it's depending on actual saya and fuchi size. I have a sword with exact same section on fuchi and koi guchi, so boith seppa are identical except the dents due to habaki, seppa are ginkise, so quite easy to damage to silver foil. I remember I had another sword, where saya and fuchi were different, and seppa were different of course, when I make new seppa, I keep about 0,5 to 1mm extra material all around to fuchi or saya, then I make the slope and then I make the cuts. I remember even seen once a kinkise seppa with asymetrical shape to match the fuchi takazogan shape, so I made same one a sword I have here.
  15. Hi Loui. I sent you a pm regarding komanagura, maybe uhigumori depending on price.
  16. Makes me think about a formal blank purple shakude tsuba set I almost bought some years ago.
  17. I saw this sword, and other seller's swords, the blades looked strange, like new wrong polish or so. I got same thought about the fittings, then I saw the horn kashira and the price...
  18. makes me think of many high level casts we see sometimes here and there, what is suspicious is the black and gold color process. I saw some meiji era cups, trays and other high quality engraving like this and the gold silver and other color are always solid inlays or foil plating process or at least mercury gold plating, and that tsuba has nothing like this on it, very suspicious. I remember such a suspicious cast some month ago on the forum, some said it was legit, ford included, I didn't put a comment, s it's not easy to put comments of that kind here. But some weeks later maybe, I don't remember, I found the exact copy on yahoo, signature every pinch detail exactly the same, so I put a comment. I also saw a rooster tsuba on ebay, looks the same, electroplating, patina on copper base, like used on modern iaito fittings (except gold plating)
  19. the copper seven god tsuba also looks suspicious to me. The imgur link I just see some code and letters .I really like the nanbam tsuba. This one I have is very strange, two holes on each side have different patina on outer side, easy to see some metal piece has been attached, like ring or chain maybe, very strange.
  20. Hello, I would like to see more tsuba examples without hitsu ana, This is what I try to collect. If you have examples to show, I would be happy to see.
  21. big size, interesting. What is strange is why the fukurin has been added and maybe the diameter reduced, it seems the design, even not the kiri flowers, but the hirazogan foliage itself is missing some room on the rim. Geraint, you're right, my mistake, the ana is on the outer side, I virtually put the tsuba near my belt, but forgot to reverse it, putting handle on front side... So it's a kogai ana, at the right place.
  22. the diameter also has been reduced. What is strange is the actual hitsu ana is on the kogatana side, I saw most of the waki have the kogatana handle on the inner side on the belt. Should it be a katana tsuba, reduced and modified to become a wakizashi tsuba? I read about a law late XVIII, for blade lenght, tsuba size, under 9,5cm for katana, and prohibited knifes in the katana sheat. I try to find informations about tsuba without hitsu ana, because this is the theme I try to collect.
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