New option for corrosion protection

[cabowen]

Some kind soul recently sent me a bottle of a product called CO "Collector" made by Break Free for "long term storage protection". It is an oil especially formulated for the military for long term firearm storage. It was tested and found to be effective at preventing corrosion for up to 5 years with one application. It is said to be safe for all materials and recommended for use on firearms, in armories and museums.

 

I will be giving this a try and will report back if there are any issues. It looks to be a promising alternative for corrosion resistance.

[Jim P]

Hi Chris, Thought this sounds good so tried to get some but it looks like it cannot ship to Australia only US tried Amazon,Americana arms, brownells its getting a joke

they won't even ship a bottle of cleaner :?

[Rich S]

What ever happened to Renaissance Wax? I use it on my vintage

and antique knives, but haven't tried it on my swords. It is

supposed to be what museums use to preserve antique swords,

etc. Has worked quite well for my knives.

Rich S

[Stephen]

http://www.whatsinsidescjohnson.com/en- ... e-wax.aspx

 

http://www.productosdeconservacion.com/ ... ssance.pdf

 

I think SC Johnson paste wax would do the job well with less cost.

[cabowen]

Personally, I would rather not put wax on my blades. Wax sounds like something that will attract/hold dirt and grit.

[Stephen]

wax is such a finer film than oil, I see oil as a bigger collector of dust.

[cabowen]

But it has a much higher viscosity.

[ROKUJURO]

......CO "Collector" made by Break Free for "long term storage protection"......It was....found to be effective at preventing corrosion for up to 5 years with one application......

Chris,

 

I hope to read a report from you then .

[Stephen]

As do I.

[cabowen]

Will be checking it out...

[Stephen]

This is OT and if Chris minds Mods may remove.

For all the newbies out there and some experienced, I have had many a sword come thru the mail with way too much oil, some almost dripping off the blade, I can only image the inside of the saya, if you have beads of oil you have over oiled it. Just a fine film is all it takes, Chris may expand if he likes.

[cabowen]

[John A Stuart]

Ren Wax is a particular wax. I use it on rapiers, smallswords and such. They have blades in antique state and are not highly polished like Nihonto. I use no wax on Nihonto and use traditional oil and not on the nakago. This new product, I would not use unless it is readily removed with isopropyl hydrate, or until vetted by a responsible group. John

[cabowen]

 

This new product, I would not use ... until vetted by a responsible group. John

 

Guess that tosses out the US Military.....

[John A Stuart]

Chris, I was refering to its use on highly polished blades. When I did armoury duty, cosmoline was the long term solution. We had to soak weapons in gasoline and scrub to remove it. Of course that meant nothing, as the preservation of the weapons superceded the work to clean them. Just as I was mustering out they started using that impregnated brown wrapper for storage. Military usage of preservatives is a whole different kettle of fish as compared to museum conservation and preservation, like we would be more prone to use. That is why I mentioned Ren Wax. I wouldn't use it on any Japanese metalwork due to its removal problems. John

[cabowen]

I was just joking John...Your concerns are well taken and I will investigate the product further before using it on anything important. It does resemble regular firearm oil, maybe just a touch more viscous, but nothing like wax, etc.

[John A Stuart]

Oh goodness, I thought you may have thought I was saying the US Milspecs were being denigrated by me. Internet, eh? John

[Ken-Hawaii]

John, I really don't think you mean "isopropyl hydrate," mostly because there is no such compound...unless you mean the water that is in normal isopropyl alcohol. I probably made a billion gallons of isopropanol (anhydrous isopropyl alcohol) back when I worked for Shell Chemical as a Chemical Engineer in the late 60s, so I know the process pretty well.

 

I would use denatured alcohol (preferably methanol) to remove anything organic from a blade.

 

Ken

[Uechi]

What ever happened to Renaissance Wax? I use it on my vintage

and antique knives, but haven't tried it on my swords. It is

supposed to be what museums use to preserve antique swords,

etc. Has worked quite well for my knives.

Rich S

 

Putting on wax microcrystalline or otherwise is not smart. If you ever want to polish that blade you will have to use sufficient solvent to remove all the wax. If this isn't done you could most certainly screw up a polishers expensive stones.

[Stephen]

Not a concern on a blade in full polish.

[Uechi]

Not a concern on a blade in full polish.

 

 

It might not be a concern for years but sooner or later protective coating or otherwise you will get corrosion.When that happens look out.

[Stephen]

It might not be a concern for years

When that happens look out.

_________________

 

Thanks for the life expectancy,,,

[John A Stuart]

Yes Ken, my misnomer where I was thinking about the hydration of propylene to isopropyl alcohol. John