IJASWORDS

The blade is Mumei. It is in nice polish. I will have to show it to some one more knowledgeable than me to identify.

Thought I would share this.

Bruce could explain the significance of the use of A, KA, SA, TA, RA, SE, NA...etc As prefixes. How many other prefixes are used?

Hi John, try rubbing a bit of chalk into it to maybe highlight it. Some times works. But you raised a good issue, I have knocked back many Koa's because of terrible rust on the tang, may be they are more susceptible to rust than other sword steels.

Sorry, the other way around.

Hi Bruce, a couple of mine, first one is a Spring 1939, the second is a Spring 1941.

Thanks, actually I was more impressed with the fittings. They look as new, the detail in the casting is beautiful, and the gold (gilt) highlights are present. Almost a reference piece in years to come to study what they really looked like.

I have found that under the leather combat covers, rust and corrosion is usually present. This could be from the residual leather tanning chemicals, as well as leathers ability to hold moisture for a long time when wet. I also think at least some leather covers were originally fabricated wet, and this allowed them to "shrink" giving a tight fit on the saya ready for use. The rarer canvas cover "breathes", dries quickly, and the very thick cotton used is probably inert.

Hi Hamfish, I would be surprised if the seller milkey1126 would sell a reproduction. From experience he knows his stuff. I could be mistaken, but would be concerned if it slipped past him.

Hi John, the handle is in above average condition. but not "MINT", as would be expected.

I decided to carefully remove (and replace) the WW2 canvas/leather combat cover from one of my Koshirae to examine the fittings. To my pleasant surprise the condition of the metal/paint/fittings was like it was made and assembled yesterday. MINT! Thought I would share what an original (Showa 1942) outfit would have looked like off the assembly line.

Hi Mike, John is correct. Here is an example of mine, 75cm Koto blade, and special order with lacquered Itomaki tzuka.

For a statistical sample of the blue/brown, here are about 20 of mine, around 51cm, give and take a bit of stretch and age.

Photo of examples from my swords. Blue/brown Army officer above, plain brown army in middle, and Navy example below showing length and color comparisons.

Hi Bruce, GREAT INFORMATION AGAIN! Jim Dawson's contact details are in the front of his book.

To Brian/Administrators, would it be possible to start a new category called "FAKES AND COPIES"? It would be a great help to novice collectors and first time buyers. So many newbies are getting "burned", and this is a great example to kick it off. It actually made me sick to the stomach to look at it, yet so many new less informed buyers are being sucked in. Almost every day we see a post of a dubious sword, and this forum could act as a reference for buyers to know what to look for before purchase. What a great public service this could provide. As noted in previous posts, copies are getting better and better, and this could be a good way to stay on top of things. I commend this suggestion for members to get behind. Neil.

This is an important and impressive piece of work, well done.

Hi Edward, looks like a sword made for example in Indonesia (Dutch East Indies) during or close to the end of WW2. The local inhabitants saw Real military Japanese swords, and tried to emulate them.

By the way Chris, nice NCO mate.

It amazes me how many copper handles NCO's do not have matching numbers, or no numbers at all on the Saya throat. If Bruce's theory is true, how were so many swords taken apart during the war by souvenir hunters and why? Of were the Japanese arsenals/armories issuing non-matching swords after repairs for example? I also have a non-matching copper handle sword, who the original soldier (now deceased), picked it up from the battle field and swears that it was that way when taken from a deceased enemy. I would hope Shamsey or Stegel may have some information or thoughts on this conundrum.

Looks a lot like the typical stainless steel blade, often seen on KAI's.

Andrew, your question confuses me a little. You could study a thousand showa-to and to the eye will all be different. The post of Dave R is the definitive answer to your question, and as Bruce explains, the level of the polish would show the the characteristics of that blade. And sword smiths made blades of varying quality. One smith could make "knock outs" for the war, and could equally make a great blade as a special order. If you read SLOUGH's book, he grades the smiths, and these smiths could make a range in quality.

The mandrel theory is possible, but I have many gunto saya that exhibit wildly different curvature, and cross sections. This would mean a multitude of mandrels?

Aluminium is very difficult to get paint to adhere to, certainly for any length of time and with hard usage. It has been common practice to etch prime the aluminium with a chemical (usually chromium based) that bites into the aluminium, but also "keys" the paint finish. Acid chrome compounds leave a goldy yellow colour on aluminium and its alloys. You may have noticed some aircraft aluminium components look a goldy yellow colour before painting.

Midare?