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Everything posted by lambo35

  1. Possibly a tape [scotch tape] residue stain? Can you "feel it" Chuck.
  2. Thanx Thomas. I couldn't tell how I messed up the link.
  3. The stamp on the blade in question looks [design] very much like the emblem on a SNLF green field cap. Chuck. https://www.gunboards.com/threads/Japanese-naval-field-caps-depot-or-makers-marks
  4. Hi Bruce, just the late war Yokosuka Naval Special T99's. I believe they also made various ordnance items, ammunition etc. Try this link: http://pre98.com/shop/scarce-Japanese-naval-special-type-99-earlyproduction Hope it works :] it does. When you get to the Pre98 page look for the following link: "Gone but not forgotten", it is there.
  5. The metal around the edges of the impression is rounded as though it were pushed down as in stamping. Maybe press stamping a very hot blade. Just my WAG! ps. How does it compare to stamps of the Yokosuka navel facilities/shipyard/factories?
  6. Is it normal for the fonts on the saya to be different from those on the blade, the above looks to be different, blade from saya. Chuck.
  7. I recently bought a tassel that is in frayed condition, it has the blue side/brown side strap but the tassels are all brown no blue. The two knot sliders are somewhat tapered, unlike I've seen on reproduction tassels. Any one seen this combination before?
  8. Buy what you like, tempered by what you can afford. Sooner or later you will no longer be here, you will be gone and the collection will be dispersed. Do what you enjoy under the circumstances you are in, your life will probably have greater quality to you and you may even live longer.
  9. I am a bit confused, is the lower mekugi ana the one closer to the nakago giri or the tsuba? Are not all references to upper/lower made with the blade up as one would hold it if reading the signiture? Thanx for the clarification.
  10. I think I would switch the chain and tassel.
  11. I have an unsigned Toyokawa anti-rust blade with 2 punch marks on the rear of the nakago mune.
  12. Narrowing the search. I need a fuchi that uses habaki friction with the throat of the saya to retain the blade in the saya. Chuck.
  13. As long as there are Japanese blades passing from owner to owner there will be questions, NMB is where the answers/references/referals are. NMB is this Newby's 1st go to source of information on this topic.
  14. Take all the parts off the blade, place the blade on a glass table top, slide different thickness cardboard/paper strips under the blade. You should be able determine any variation in blade straightness this way.
  15. Mac, great project for your Father. I would use a couple of drops of "Kroil" oil on each side of the stubborn screw/nut and let it sit for a couple of days, keeping the screw wet during that time. Then dry the screw/nut, then take a small jeweler's file with a serrated edge and carefully clean up the screw slot. If you can do the same with the two slots on the nut, do it, it will make the removal process much easier. Make sure your Dad has a nice set of gunsmiths screw drivers and keep the slots dry when your are trying to get the screw loose. The snap ring pliers could help, especially if there is a second pair of hands holding the pliers [ ]. That blade looks like a real challenge for your Dad.
  16. What is the time period of the Toyokawa rust proof blades with the square end nakago? I have a Toyokawa blade without the square nakago, more of a "traditional" profile. My blade only has the Toyokawa stamp, no signiture. Chuck.
  17. I would like one that could have been found on a Rinji gunto. I would also like a newly made leather blade retainer [for the tsuka and saya] that would keep the blade in the saya? Thanx. Chuck.
  18. Ken, the first thing I would attempt would be to locate a person in your area that has knowledge of Japanese swords and have them look at it. If that is not a likely scenario or cannot be easily done I would take a small tapered marlin spike and see if it will penetrate to the same depth on both the right and left side of the tsuka ferrule, the lumen on each side could be of two different sizes.. This is to see if it might be two pieces and a scew together structure such as a sarute or barrel nut on a kabutogane. If it is it should be able to to be unscrewed. You might then try to push the spike onto one of the sides with a little pressure and see if it can be unscrewed, if not, use a little bit of very light penetrating oil on the inside of the ferrule, [NOT on the ray skin!] and let it stand for a day or two before trying to unscrew it again. Try both sides, if it is a two piece structure it will come apart. Good luck. And by the way, very nice find!
  19. Ray, I recently purchased a flexible gouge device for wood carving from China that attaches to a Dremel tool. The signature on the nakago looks as though it could have been made by the same type of tool. Just a WAG.
  20. What is TLC? = Tender Loving Care. Chuck
  21. M1 Carbines and Garands, a non-op 1918 BAR, Arisakas, Mausers, U.S. military knives/bayonets and parts for my 1945 Willy's MB. My wife tells me "way too much c--p".
  22. The last 12 cm of the blade looks like a previous owner used it to roast marsh-mellows. Chuck.
  23. Mike, that would work. Please PM a price. Regards. Chuck
  24. This is for a restoration using a Shin Gunto tsuka. Chuck.
  25. Dave, I believe you are correct. The commander of the Japanese forces on Iwo Jima, having spent some time in the USA prior to WW2, like Yamamoto, realized the strength America's industrial potential. They both knew Japan could not defeat, only slowdown the Western powers. Chuck.
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