Jump to content

lambo35

Members
  • Content Count

    41
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by lambo35

  1. I recently bought a tassel that is in frayed condition, it has the blue side/brown side strap but the tassels are all brown no blue. The two knot sliders are somewhat tapered, unlike I've seen on reproduction tassels. Any one seen this combination before?
  2. Buy what you like, tempered by what you can afford. Sooner or later you will no longer be here, you will be gone and the collection will be dispersed. Do what you enjoy under the circumstances you are in, your life will probably have greater quality to you and you may even live longer.
  3. I am a bit confused, is the lower mekugi ana the one closer to the nakago giri or the tsuba? Are not all references to upper/lower made with the blade up as one would hold it if reading the signiture? Thanx for the clarification.
  4. I think I would switch the chain and tassel.
  5. I have an unsigned Toyokawa anti-rust blade with 2 punch marks on the rear of the nakago mune.
  6. Narrowing the search. I need a fuchi that uses habaki friction with the throat of the saya to retain the blade in the saya. Chuck.
  7. As long as there are Japanese blades passing from owner to owner there will be questions, NMB is where the answers/references/referals are. NMB is this Newby's 1st go to source of information on this topic.
  8. Take all the parts off the blade, place the blade on a glass table top, slide different thickness cardboard/paper strips under the blade. You should be able determine any variation in blade straightness this way.
  9. Mac, great project for your Father. I would use a couple of drops of "Kroil" oil on each side of the stubborn screw/nut and let it sit for a couple of days, keeping the screw wet during that time. Then dry the screw/nut, then take a small jeweler's file with a serrated edge and carefully clean up the screw slot. If you can do the same with the two slots on the nut, do it, it will make the removal process much easier. Make sure your Dad has a nice set of gunsmiths screw drivers and keep the slots dry when your are trying to get the screw loose. The snap ring pliers could help, especially if there is a second pair of hands holding the pliers [ ]. That blade looks like a real challenge for your Dad.
  10. What is the time period of the Toyokawa rust proof blades with the square end nakago? I have a Toyokawa blade without the square nakago, more of a "traditional" profile. My blade only has the Toyokawa stamp, no signiture. Chuck.
  11. I would like one that could have been found on a Rinji gunto. I would also like a newly made leather blade retainer [for the tsuka and saya] that would keep the blade in the saya? Thanx. Chuck.
  12. Ken, the first thing I would attempt would be to locate a person in your area that has knowledge of Japanese swords and have them look at it. If that is not a likely scenario or cannot be easily done I would take a small tapered marlin spike and see if it will penetrate to the same depth on both the right and left side of the tsuka ferrule, the lumen on each side could be of two different sizes.. This is to see if it might be two pieces and a scew together structure such as a sarute or barrel nut on a kabutogane. If it is it should be able to to be unscrewed. You might then try to push the spike onto one of the sides with a little pressure and see if it can be unscrewed, if not, use a little bit of very light penetrating oil on the inside of the ferrule, [NOT on the ray skin!] and let it stand for a day or two before trying to unscrew it again. Try both sides, if it is a two piece structure it will come apart. Good luck. And by the way, very nice find!
  13. Ray, I recently purchased a flexible gouge device for wood carving from China that attaches to a Dremel tool. The signature on the nakago looks as though it could have been made by the same type of tool. Just a WAG.
  14. What is TLC? = Tender Loving Care. Chuck
  15. M1 Carbines and Garands, a non-op 1918 BAR, Arisakas, Mausers, U.S. military knives/bayonets and parts for my 1945 Willy's MB. My wife tells me "way too much c--p".
  16. The last 12 cm of the blade looks like a previous owner used it to roast marsh-mellows. Chuck.
  17. Mike, that would work. Please PM a price. Regards. Chuck
  18. This is for a restoration using a Shin Gunto tsuka. Chuck.
  19. Dave, I believe you are correct. The commander of the Japanese forces on Iwo Jima, having spent some time in the USA prior to WW2, like Yamamoto, realized the strength America's industrial potential. They both knew Japan could not defeat, only slowdown the Western powers. Chuck.
  20. Bruce, if you get the two screws, I can use the one you have left over. Many thanx. Chuck
  21. Just a WAC [Wild A_ _ Comment]. First, I am a very Newby in the field of Japanese swords, but I do have a little teaching background in Botany. So here is my WAC. Japanese artists are to me, known for accuracy in their art. The Sakura or other flowers used for a decorative purpose I would expect to be accurately portrayed. A 5 petaled flower, such as the Sakura [ Dicot, Angiosperm ] also will have a number of stamen [identified as the Crown in this series of posts] in multiples of 5 [5, 10, 15, 20, etc]. Therefore, a tsuba, made by a Japanese artist would reflect the true number of stamen in their casting of the Sakura. I have not looked up a picture of a Sakura flower, so I do not recall what the real number [ in multiples of 5 ] is. I would therefore believe a real Japanese tsuba, if I counted the number of stamen would have the correct number. A few of the pictures of tsuba above show stamen numbers other than the expected multiples of 5 [11, 12 ], Those are not what I would expect to find on any Japanese representation of the Sakura flower. One of the illustrated tsuba's has 4 per petal [ possibly correct ] therefore I believe this tsuba, which is accurate, is also Japanese made. What do you think of my WAC? Florescence not accurately represented = not Japanese made! Remember, I am really a Newby. Chuck.
  22. Positive response made Friday evening. This is a great site, thanx to all who contribute their time and expertise to making it run smoothly! Chuck.
  23. lambo35

    Midwest collectors?

    Western SD [spearfish].
  24. The pictures of the blade will not enlarge. Chuck
×
×
  • Create New...