TETSUGENDO

Peter, your Inro dates to late Meiji/Taisho, it's more an export item than one for the native market. The appearance of age is not natural. Sorry, it is not better news.

Peter, what great simplified coverage of the subject, a perfect intro for the beginner! -S-

Good thinking Chris, it's an enlightening photograph....perhaps another photo comparing only the tang forms and details. Cheers, -S-

Dwain, Again, UNPATINATED Shibuichi is not white, nor is it black, blue, or silver....it is varying shades of copper color depending on silver content. It sounds, to me, like you are describing the appearance of tarnished silver. Cheers, -S-

Luc, an interesting segment of Japan's history, thanks for bringing this to the attention of all here! -S-

Dwain, Most likely silver, from your photo it looks nothing like Shibuichi. Also, if you got a strong indicator for silver in your test its silver, most Shibuichi has a silver content ot 20/30+% and would not yield the results that an 80/100% silver content would. Cheers, -S-

Jeremiah, Not Bunnies, but these sure can be interesting and the fine ones have a special kind of beauty. Couldn't fault you for adding another! -S-

Here is another Dove by Myochin Munemasa, these are beautiful! Cheers, S.

Just for clarity, unpatinated Shibuichi is not white in color, it is varying shades of copper color depending on silver content. -S-

From The Walters Art Museum, acc.#51.209.2

If your comfortable foregoing the rinse Ken, as you will. I did check with a conservator and his opinion favors neutralizing the bleach, it is common practice when using an acid or alkali with a porous material. -S-

+1. -S-

Ken, Glad to hear that you had some success with the bleach, you appear to have neglected the neutralizing rinse....I suggest you rectify this! -S-

Chris, Another beautiful addition to the site, fine blade....all in all, an impressive presentation! -S-

Gentlemen, Yes Steve, a Bleach solution of 1part to 10 parts of water, followed by a neutralizing rinse, then a couple rinses in water should suffice. Finish by heating the piece with a hair dryer till dry, wait several days before applying finish of your choice. Jeremiah, sunlight would work but can be hit or miss depending on conditions, etc. A strong ultraviolet light source would be more efficacious. Pete, try to keep Puck at bay, dental picks should be left to the professionals.....imagine the ugly possibilities! Cheers, -S-

Ken, As I have stated, if your problem is caused by a micro-organism the application of Chlorine bleech should, in the majority of cases, kill it. If the problem persists, look to another cause and remedy. Cheers, -S-

Grant, Don't feel dumb, we all make mistakes....I certainly do. As far as the value of the tsuba is concerned....whatever soneone is willing to pay! Cheers, -S-

Thanks Ian, You've peaked my interest. I did a bit of research and found that there are numerous micro-organisms (bacteria and fungi) that 'feed' on iron, the most prevalent of these are Thiobacillus ferrooxidans and Leptospirillum ferrooxidans. Both of these bacteria, and many of the others (including fungi) can be neutralized with household bleach, and their handiwork removed by mechanical means, or the application of acids. -S-

Hi All, Just my two cents worth, but all I'm seeing is modern 'featureless' metal plate, as for rim laminations....looks like tool marks to me. Cheers, -S-

Fascinating Ian, "clean it off" in what manner? Cheers, -S-

Barring possible metallurgical interest....this 'CURIO' is a mute witness. -S-

Interesting 'relic' I suppose, It is certainly not a sword any longer. As they say....there is a buyer for everything! -S-

And, if strong enough, will probably etch the metal as well. -S-

If the affected tsuba is a plain iron one, the elusive tool you seek may be something as simple as a stiff fine bristle toothbrush. -S-

Malcolm, Thanks for the listings, I missed a couple of the titles. -S-