Grey Doffin

How about Umetada Shigenari? Grey

Afterwards the 3 blades were stolen by a Yeti and Bigfoot. Grey

How to care for a sword, including how to remove the handle: http://www.nbthk-ab.org/Etiquette.htm Grey

Something Senchu and kao? Grey

Just to clarify, and perhaps to sum up for those of us who agree with me, I'm not bringing this up for my benefit. I'm a big boy, I'm in the business, and I can take my lumps. The few times I've posted in this forum, I usually invite comments. But for someone who is new to selling, trying to build his collection by moving out a less desirable sword for something better maybe, it seems in poor taste to rain on his parade. If a new buyer spends more than he should, it's not like we haven't repeatedly warned him to study first and buy later. And to the question: "how can somebody leave a negative comment without any reason?" Somebody will. It's like your mother said. If you can't say something nice don't say anything at all. Grey

I have met and done business outside of ebay with the seller who goes by Komonjo. I find him to be a very decent fellow and I'm certain he has nothing to do with the Mutant Ninja Turtle or any other phony baloney polishing service in The Bay Area. Grey

Isn't there a rule/protocol/whatever that there will be no negative posts added to a For Sale thread? There is currently a thread in this forum that has been garnering unhelpful posts, including at least one by a moderator, most of which have been removed. I didn't want to further muck up the guy's chance for a sale so I started this thread rather than post on his. If something is an outright fraud or if the seller has invited comment, have at it, but shy of that I think we're supposed to keep our opinions to ourselves. Not fair to the seller if other posters are playing spoiler on his thread. Correct me if I'm mistaken, please. Grey

The absolute best for boning a rusty iron tsuba is fossilized ivory (mastodon or mammoth, can't remember which I have). Grey

Other possibilities that may or may not make sense. Rather than wax how about choji oil? While you're traveling the oil might soften the rust and make removal easier when you get back. I have been told more than once by old timers (of which I now am one) that a rusty iron tsuba can be boiled a bit, wiped dry, and then put in the freezer. The freezing causes water absorbed by the rust to expand and loosen the rust. Anyone tried this? Grey

I was the high bidder at $650 and have been in contact with Mr. Bone repeatedly. This morning he told me he had decided to sell to me because he wasn't expecting any other bids; I sent a check. I think this is a scam. Grey

I sent Steve a check for the katana earlier today. Guess I have to stop payment on the check and anyone else who has sent a check should do the same. Grey

Hi Luca, Search the Message Board for fiberglass pen. This will probably be a better tool for removing the red rust on the surface of all the small recesses of the carving. Grey

Thank you George, Is that Yostuwari or Yotsuwari? Grey

Thank you both. Grey

Hi again, Hakogake on the box for hibashi (tea ceremony iron chopsticks) that will be for sale. Starts Higo and I can't get the last 2 Kanji. Romanji and translation if necessary will be appreciated. Thanks, Grey

Hi guys, I know the label (on a box for a tsuba that will be for sale) starts with Owari but I'm having trouble after that. Romanji and translation will be appreciated. Thank you, Grey

Hi Steve, If you haven't already done so, make a replacement for the mekugi and do it ASAP. Having a Japanese sword without the pin in the handle is a serious risk of broken kissaki. Grey

Hi Steve, If you plan to have a bare blade touching the kake, oak may not be a very good choice. Oak has a relatively high acid content and may corrode the blade. I'm not sure an oil finish is more likely than other finishes to bring out the grain and colors already present in the raw wood; about the same in my experience. Grey

Hi Steve, The easy answer is to use nothing; I don't think finish is necessary on a katana kake. If you use an oil finish make sure it has a long time (at least a few days) to cure before you use the kake; uncured oil will stain shirasaya and might mess up lacquer. I don't think any clear finish (like varnish, shellac, lacquer, or poly) will damage any part of a sword once it is dry; ditto for paint. Stains should be no problem also, once they're dry, but they don't protect wood. They only change the color and they are ugly. Not sure what you mean by "enhance the wood as opposed to altering it". Any finish will alter the appearance of any wood and enhancement is a judgement call. Grey, a furniture maker.

Hi Joel, At any given time there are probably at least 100 guys like you: beginners anxious to buy their first katana, trolling ebay. Each of them have more money than knowledge about what they're attempting and they're all convinced they can make a smart purchase without first doing their homework. They can't. Collectively they will drive the price of this and any other mediocre sword on ebay above reason. Slow down Grasshopper. There will never be a time when there won't be a good katana at a fair price to buy, and once you know what to look for you can buy one. But first you have to study. Grey

Hi Joel, If you return the sword take the money and spend it on study: books and attending sword shows. The more you know the better the choice you'll make next time you go to buy something. With your current level of knowledge, unless you buy papered from a well respected dealer, you're likely to get another at the same level as this one. It's a fascinating study and there's no hurry to buy a sword; they'll always be available. Grey

Hi Steven, If I was 25 and knew my way around computers I'm sure that would be easy to set up. I'm a lot older and have very limited computer skills (I couldn't throw the damn thing out the window if I wanted to) so your idea will have to wait till someone else runs the site. Grey

http://www.japaneseswordbooksandtsuba.com/store/books/c195-nakamura-kakudayu-nobuiye-tanshu The book. Grey

Hi Dirk, I did give some thought to different wording for the store category. High Level Kodogu implies that the other category is Low Level Kodogu and I don't want to suggest that. I could use More Expensive Kodogu; what do you think of that one or do you have a different idea? What do others think? I know other dealers' websites group pieces by value so I'm not the only one. My intent was to not have the better pieces lost among the more common. Also, I've been making an effort to get higher end pieces for the site and I wanted to highlight those. Hi Bruno, I'm not sure I understand your question. There is no doubt, especially now with the internet, that there is a global market. Sitting here in northern Minnesota I sell as much to Europe as I sell to the US. I've even sold Japanese books to Japan. Cheers, Grey

Hi guys, Did a bit of housekeeping with the website and created a new store category: Tsuba & Kodogu over $1,000. If you check it out you'll be able to look at the 2, new to my site, Higo Tsuba recently added. Cheers, Grey http://www.japaneseswordbooksandtsuba.com