Grey Doffin

Hi Ed, Isn't the most likely option that this is just one more of the numerous gimei of Soshu Sadamune? Grey

I'm in. Grey

Hi Ben, I see some significant differences. This isn't saying that I think your sword is gimei; you need to compare yours with a variety of mei to get a better idea (you should be able to find many online and, of course, in books). How does the work compare with what Tadatsuna is known for? That should be the 1st test. Grey

Awadaguchi Fujiwara Tadatsuna. Pretty important Shinto smith if it's right. Grey

1st picture from the left: Mark Jones, Danny Massey, Wayne Bentley, Peter Bleed, David McDonald, me, Barry Hennick. 2nd: Mark's son Mark (M2), me, Bill Rannow, Peter Bleed. 3rd: Matt Brice and John Kurata. Thanks for the drink Brian. Grey

You can find oshigata in Fujishiro and Kanzan Shinto Oshigata Dictionary, if you have those references (if you don't you should). Sorry; it's too late for pictures tonight and I'm on the road very early tomorrow. Maybe someone else can post some for you. Cheers, Grey

Shinano no Kami Hirokane. Grey

Also, if the nakago corrodes after the habaki has been put in place it can become difficult to remove the habaki. Iron expands as it rusts. I'm still not 100% convinced there isn't a weld under the habaki; could we have a closeup of the area with the habaki pulled down as far as possible? Grey

But wouldn't you think, Kam, that if that's what has happened here, the misplaced mekugi-ana would have been plugged? Grey

Only reason I can come up with is a welded on nakago. Can we see a picture without habaki? Grey

Hi Ryan, The tsuba looks to be largely copper, mid to very late Edo, and somewhat generic soft metal tsuba (not easily attributable to any smith or school). It may have been improperly cleaned; the color looks off. But I'm sure someone else will know better. Grey

Hi Ryan, You have the date correct. Bring your sword and your questions to the show next weekend in Schaumberg (Chicago) and you'll learn so much. I'll be at the 1st table to the right; I'd be glad to take a look for you. Cheers, Grey

Tada something, dated Showa 18 (1943) (these pictures are upside down). Has an arsenal stamp (Showa stamp?) and is not traditionally made. Grey

I believe it is real, mediocre, and in poor condition. You can do much better. Grey

Don't get me wrong. I wasn't saying James shouldn't have bought the sword, just that he shouldn't spend money to have a polisher look at it. There is a tendency on NMB, for posters to suggest that blades need to be polished and I often think that would be a mistake. Grey

Sorry but it makes no sense to send this to a polisher. James would be out the cost of post both ways, the polisher certainly has better use of his time, and all that would be learned is what's been said here already: this is a ho-hum unsigned wakizashi with serious defects that isn't worth a polish. Swords like this get polished because beginners won't give up hope; old timers know better. Grey

I agree with the reading. Grey

Hi Mike, Earlier than 1940's; sometime in the 19th century. Signed Bizen no Kuni Osafune no JU Sukekane. Dated something 3 year a day in some month (we need a better picture of that side). Has to be worth at minimum $1,000, I would think. Here's a link to a care & etiquette website; make sure you read it carefully. http://www.nbthk-ab.org/Etiquette.htm Grey

Hi guys, I've had spotty at best email access lately and I think I've missed some messages from customers. My ability to answer the ones I did receive hasn't been great either. If any of you tried contacting me through my site and didn't get an answer, please try again; I think the problem has been fixed. Thanks, Grey

Nakago looks pretty recent and the blade is too damaged/defected to have much value. Koshirae is likely worth more than the blade and that's not a lot. Grey

Hi Ben, May not be hopeless. You would be smart to show this to a real polisher and ask his opinion. Grey

Hi guys, As mentioned above, I can bring any book on my site to the show. I also will be buying books at the show. If you have any to sell send me an email (through my site) and I'll let you know if it's something I can use. Cheers, Grey

Han Bing Siong (I'm pretty sure I've mispelled his name; sorry) wrote a series of articles on the subject for "Token Bijutsu" English edition. The math to show optimal placement was included. Grey

Hi David, I think you would be smart to put off having this polished. Spend money, time, and effort on educating yourself about Nihonto. Someday you may decide to have this sword polished and if so that's fine. But maybe by then you will have chosen a different time/school to focus your collection on and you'll be glad you don't have so much money tied up in this sword. At the moment you don't know enough to know what you want; go slow grasshopper. Grey

Sometimes you'll see 2 holes close to each other and these are probably 2 different tsukas at the same length of sword. When the holes are spaced along the length of the nakago it shows that the sword has been shortened once or more often. The proper distance between the hole and the machi is 3 finger widths for a katana or 4 for a tachi; if the blade gets shortened a new hole has to be made to maintain the proper distance from the machi. BTW, this distance allows for mekugi placement between the strands of the tsuka-ito and it also provides for the optimal attachment of the blade to the tsuka. Scientific testing and centuries of use have shown that this distance gives the best security. Grey