Grey Doffin

Sorry but I have to disagree a bit. Rice glue is best; it doesn't stain the wood, it won't damage the sword, and it is reversible if the saya ever needs to be taken apart, cleaned inside and reglued. It is necessary that the crack, whether along the seam or along the grain, can be closed completely - no gap - because no wood glue bridges gaps. The 2 halves of the join have to fit snugly together. I use a wood wedge/s to force the crack open a bit and I apply the rice glue with a strip of plastic packaging blister (when you buy a toothbrush the back of the package is paper and the front is plastic blister. That's the plastic to use). Andy's answer just popped up. Since the crack is in the original seam the wedge can go in the mouth of the saya to spread the crack a bit. Once the glue is in the crack remove the wedge and squeeze the saya tight, wipe off any glue that squeezes out, and wrap the saya tightly with bands (I use an old sheet torn into long this strips for this). I usually leave all alone till the next day so any moisture inside the saya can evaporate. Grey.

A different, less expensive but just as informative option, and in English, is Dmitry Pechalov's Japanese Swords: Soshu Den Masterpieces: https://japaneseswordbooksandtsuba.com/store/book/sword-books/c265-Japanese-swords-soshu-den-masterpieces-by-pechalov/ Grey

Here is the book on my site: https://japaneseswordbooksandtsuba.com/store/book/sword-books/b663-soshu-den-meisaku-shu-by-dr-homma/ to give you an idea what to expect. Such a pity that all books haven't been digitalized, but then, no one would bother to write books. Why go to all the toil and trouble if your work will be stolen? Grey

Hi Matt, If you take photos on a black background, those of us with old eyes will be better able to read the signature. Grey

Hi George, Having koshirae made for a blade in shirasaya is a common desire of beginning collectors and it is almost always a bad idea. Let's say you spend $2,000 for the blade in shirasaya and another $4,000 for the kodogu and labor necessary to make the koshirae. When you are done, if the blade is nice and the koshirae is well done, you should have no trouble selling the set for $3,000 or so. When a collector wants a blade and koshirae, he wants period koshirae, not something put together yesterday by a western collector. If the aim is to have a nice blade in or with koshirae, that is what you should buy to begin with. If you want koshirae to go with your blade in shirasaya, consider buying an existing koshirae mounted on tsunagi (wood blade) to display next to your blade in shirasaya. The blade won't fit in the koshirae but it is best kept in its shirasaya anyway. This will cost much less than having koshirae made. My 2 cents, Grey

Hi Arno, If you take your photos on a black background we'll be better able to see what you have. Grey

I also doubt that this is Japanese; sorry. Grey

I agree: Masauji Saku. Grey

Hi Travis, The sword is real but appears to be fairly low end. Do not have it professionally restored; you don't know any where near enough about it to make that decision. Here you will find a care and handling brochure you should read: https://nbthk-ab2.org/sword-characteristics/ Grey

Hi Kyle, If you use a black background for your pictures we will be able to see more detail. Why are you so sure the sword is retempered? The large chip likely happened at the hands of some yahoo playing samurai. Grey

Hi Charles, If you take pictures on a dark background we'll be able to see more detail. Grey

This doesn't look right. It is either low end WWII war time or a fake. Grey

What is a retrospective appraisal? Grey

Sorry Dale but I have to strongly disagree; donating to a museum, local or otherwise, is a terrible idea. If donated the tsuba might be put on display for a short time but then will be relegated to the basement where they will rot away. If the collection is important and the museum has a serious interest in and knowledge of Nihont, that's another story but common stuff and a common museum is a recipe for ruin. Tsuba and all other Nihonto art are best kept by collectors who appreciate and know how to preserve them. Grey

Hi Susan, It would be easier for us to see what you have if you take your pictures on a dark background. Your camera is reading off the light colored background and detail has been washed out. Pictures of both sides of the tang (part of the blade inside the handle) and of the whole bare blade with a yard stick beside it will help. Look here for a care and handling brochure: https://nbthk-ab2.org/sword-characteristics/ Best, Grey