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DTM72

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Everything posted by DTM72

  1. I think you may be mixing two terms into one. JI HADA - 地肌 - surface pattern of the hada SHINOGI - 鎬 - ridgeline of the blade All I can see on the surface of the blade are scratches or sanding marks. The line running parallel to the back edge of the blade (Shinogi line) is high up on the blade. (more taper, and less thick back edge) This is usually indicative of an older blade. Would need a better picture of the blade laying flat to tell for sure.
  2. That picture narrows it down to Bizen, Buzen, Bungo, and Satsuma. now we need to see the pictures of the overall sugata and the boshi to narrow it down even more. Since the nakago is suriage (shortened) we cannot pinpoint the school based on the nakago shape and filemarks. 安 光
  3. Was good bumping into you @ChrisW! One of my trips back to Indy, I will be sure to meet up with you and the ITK, even if it is just for coffee. @AlphaRaider would love to see the pics you took! I had the table in the far back left corner with 2 suits of samurai armor on either end of the table.
  4. Your possibilities now are Awa, Bizen, Bungo, Buzen, Musashi, Sagami, Satsuma. Muromachi is still a large timeframe. 安光 1st Bizen Meitoku (1390-1394) 安光 Buzen Kakitsu (1441-1444) 安滿 Satsuma (1368-1592) 康光 1st to 5th Bizen (1394-1555) 安光 Bungo Kakitsu (1441-1444) 泰光 Awa (阿波) Tenmon (1532-1555) 泰光 Musashi Genki (1570-1573) 泰光 1st Sagami Eiroku (1558-1570)
  5. OK, now we know Mike (Yasumitsu) lived in the 1392-1572 time period. If we can see how he signed his name, this narrows the search. Seeing pictures of Mike (the blade in question) will help us to determine where Mike lived. Help us help you.
  6. I agree 100% with the above, do NOT try to remove the handle, 100% chance of it NOT being signed and 75% chance of scratching the paint on the tsuka and messing-up the screw itself.
  7. There are 40 possibilities for this name. https://nihontoclub....a=All&school_nid=All It is much like saying "Does anyone know Mike?" We need much more info on Mike such as, Mike from New York that lived there in the 2010 timeframe. Showing us the papers is a good start. We can then see how Yasumitsu signed, narrowing down the search. Depending on the papers, we can then know what time frame. Seeing a picture of the entire blade with good shots of the boshi and nakago will help narrow the search even more.
  8. Ichihara Nagamitsu made gendaito blades during WWII. His work is usually of good quality. Please understand that polishing is NOT cheap. Remember the old addage, good work is not cheap, and cheap work is not good. Due to the condition of the blade, there will be a reduction in size to polish away the scratches and pitting. This usually, but not always, means you will then need a new habaki made for it. $300-$500. You will also need a shirasaya made for it $300-$500. <-- you don't want to put the freshly polished blade into the original saya that contains fine pieces of dirt and rust thereby scratching the newly polished blade. A reputable polisher will be about $125 per inch times the length of the polished area (about 27") Papers for a WWII gendaito can be obtained, but there is no question as to the authenticity of the signature, and the papers would add zero value to the package. So here are the conservative totals; Shirasaya $300 Habaki $300 Polish $3000 Total = $3600 <-- conservative estimate A Nagamitsu in good polish sells for $2500-$4000. If you dump $3600 into your $700 purchase, you are sitting at $4500. You may have a tough time getting your money back if you decide to sell down the road. It is your sword and your time and money. I just want you to make an informed decision before you venture down this road. Here is one in OK polish https://www.ebay.com/itm/255399059510 Another in OK polish with the more desireable logner signature https://www.ebay.com/itm/295537502674 Wishing you all the best.
  9. DTM72

    Tachi

    @owazamono @mdiddy @Mark
  10. Someone was nice enough to do this last year in San Francisco at the show/shinsa there. One persons generosity helped me to get two blades papered, when I was unable to attend. I figure this is the least I can do to "pay it forward" and help others. Dan
  11. I make my own "information" papers, with picture of nakago, translation of signature, blade dimensions, and information on the smith or school. I use a heavy linen paper that is similar to NBTHK papers, then place it into a top folding envelope, again, like NBTHK papers. Example below of a WWII gendaito from Emura that I owned. Buyer was very happy with the format, and the ability to read in English.
  12. DTM72

    Tachi

    Sale is pending on my elaborately decorated tachi koshirae (Edo) with papered muromachi tachi/katana blade. <-- with that being said, I am now in the market for a tachi. The one I just sold was the highlight of my collection, but I received an offer I could not refuse. I am looking fo a new highlight. Points I am looking for can be found below. MUST BE IN KOSHIRAE. Ito-maki koshirae or other slightly flashy koshirae. Would also consider a phoenix or dragon head koshirae. Prefer signed/papered blade, but mumei papered is fine. Prefer Koto blade. Shinto is fine too. No showa blade unless it is spectacular. I am NOT a fan of simple suguha. Prefer at least a meandering notare. Sorry, I find sugu to be boring. Blade must be in good polish. Price range is up to $10000 USD. Can go up a little if something really catches my eye. Thanks to all! Dan.
  13. I will have a table at the show, but mainly display. Since I won't be too busy at my table, I would like to offer my service for shinsa to those who cannot attend the show/shinsa in person. This is how it works; Your item or items will be mailed to my home address, at least 1 week prior to the show. (sooner is better). You are responsible for the packaging and mailing of the item(s) to me. When you are shipping from your preferred shipping place, pay for the shipping, and pre-pay for the return shipping label. Add this label to the inside of the package prior to sending. If you pre register, please include a copy of the registration and any reply from the NTHK for subimssion times. https://nthkamerica.com/registration For swords and koshirae, the initial fee is $200 for me to complete the registration for you, or $100 if you have pre-registered and paid directly to NTHK. For tsuba and kozuka, kogai, kozuka, menuki, the initial fee is $125 for me to complete the registration for you, or $25 if you have pre-registered and paid directly to NTHK. My fee covers; Initial registration of the item(s) for shinsa submission <-- does not apply if you have pre-registered Receipt and safe storage of item(s). Notification and pictures will be provided to owner upon receipt. Transportation of item(s) to the show. (driven in a large SUV, no aircraft involved!) Preparation of item(s) for submission. Delivery to the shinsa team. Receipt of the item(s) from shinsa. Preservation of item(s) and re-packaging for return shipping. I will send photos of the worksheet to owner prior to item re-packaging. Worksheet(s) will be included in the packaging with the item(s). Transportation of re-packaged item(s) to shipping company, and tracking information provided to item owner. If the item(s) pass shinsa, that will be an additional $150 fee for the origami, for each item. This can ONLY be paid in cash on the day of submission. Include a check, payable to me, for the $150 and I will pay cash on your behalf at the show. if your item does not pass, I will return your uncashed check with your item. If you have any additional questions, please message me!
  14. I will have a table at the Orlando show/shinsa. For a fee, I will submit your item(s) for you, and return mail back to you with the worksheet. More details to come on this. Dan
  15. I couldn't find any other videos. I agree, this is WAAAAY too much for shinsa submission.
  16. @Michaelr will you be at the event submitting the blades? If you will be there in person, you should receive a scheduled time to take your blade(s) for submission. There will be a table outside the room for blade preparation. You strip your blade of all fittings and the habaki. You will make a temporary saya from newspaper. --> see youtube video link below. Once you submit the blade(s) to the receiver, they will give you a claim ticket and estimated time of pick-up. (Usually about 1 hour) You come back with your claim ticket(s) and get your blade and worksheet. You will know right away if it passed, or was rejected, or found to be horyu (shinsa cannot say yes or no to the signature). If you get a pass, you then pay the additional fee for the papers to be made and sent to you. Getting the papers can take 3-6 months. If someone at the show is submitting for you, they will do all of the above, and mail the blade(s) and worksheet back to you. Hope this all helps! Dan
  17. I am attempting to do something rarely ever works, but I have a nice kyu-gunto koshirae that needs a tsunagi. Rather than have a nice one made of wood, I would like to attempt to find a zoheito or murata blade, as I suspect this is what was in it originally. I would prefer a decent blade with little to no rust/staining. I used another wood tsunagi that goes to a different sword to gage what will work. Dimensions of what I am looking for can be found below. Nagasa : 24" - 25" (61-63.5 cm) Width at hamachi : 1-1/16" (27mm) Width at yokote : 3/4" (19mm) Thickness at hamachi : 1/4" (6.4mm) Thickness at yokote : 3/16" (5mm) Sori : 5/8" (15.5mm) Thanks in advance! Dan
  18. Authentic antler kake are usually pretty pricey. https://www.ebay.com/itm/166264708374?hash=item26b6261d16 Here are some fake antler stands from eBay https://www.ebay.com...?hash=item1f389c319e
  19. I would love a sword cake! Although I think the blade may have bent while cutting. Sorry Stephen, my inner fat kid reads cake every time I see the word kake. Some very nice sword stands listed at the link you posted.
  20. Good deal! Easily worth $400.
  21. I saw the signature and got excited, but after seeing the blade, felt overwhelming sadness.
  22. What Mark and Thomas state above are great ways of doing it. Easiest way, if you have time, is to go by a USPS, Fed-Ex, UPS place and ship the sword to yourself. BUT, if that is not possible, then checked luggage and direct flights are the best bet. Last bit of advice, stick an Apple airtag in the box or container with the sword. You can watch in real time where your stuff is going if you transfer planes, and ensure it continues to travel with you.
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