Alex A

^^^ Great book, and you wont find many (if any) at that price.

Thanks gents for the pointers, appreciated Mariusz, fitting that you mention "some", Ko-Katchushi & Ko-Tosho, spending a month trying to get my head around them eventually led to this thread. I get what your saying, all utilitarian, but fair to say that some are more so than others. From then on, ive moved onto Onin, then Heianjo. (bit like the above, but jazzed up with brass inlay and prices seem more affordable) Il get there, cheers.

A simple question (I think), from a Tsuba simpleton. In terms of quality and skill, which tsuba from the Koto period do you think are the best, and why? Cheers.

Watched this in full last night, totally agree, jokingly said to my lad "i wouldn't last a week", lad replied, "wouldn't last a day" A point made about the number of unskilled polishers being a "dime a dozen" ruining decent blades, so true. The sensei didn't hold back with the criticism, old school training, reminds me of my first job, how times change. Interesting documentary, thanks.

I'm agreeing with you, going to say Late Muromachi, Katateuchigatana (one hand strike sword) ,now suriage. Had a few koshirae since then. Someone with more knowledge may say I'm talking nonsense, or give you more details, but your on the right lines. Your pics could be a lot better, killing my eye lol

Hi Chris, I'm thinking its suriage, original mekugi-ana just off the end of the nakago. Just as an example, look were the bo-hi ends (slight machi okuri on this example) , that's why I think suriage.http://new.uniquejapan.com/a-bizen-1514-sukesada-wakizashi/

Pm sent.

My rule of thumb for nihonto related special ops is to simply remove a zero Enjoy the restoration!

Good luck with that, perhaps bending the truth a little wont hurt as much

Hi Ben, according to JW Bott (the sword of Japan book), a groove cut by the swordsmith who made the sword, will usually run the full length of the sword, including the nakago. (maybe others have a different point of view?) A groove cut at a later time, known as "atori-bori hi", will normally stop in in the vicinity of the habaki to preserve the signature. Yours was cut later, how much later I dont know, a few months?, fifty years?, who knows, sometimes ware gives you an inkling. Look into your sword, look to see if Horimono was common to the school. How common horimono were on mass produced swords is a good question, I can only assume not to common, taking into account the 1000s up on 1000s made which were considered disposable. It was expensive for the Ashigaru and possibly low rank Samurai. Saying that though, there was money to be made on and off the battlefield, so who knows maybe the odd horimono was paid for with loot or by the reward from a severed head of an opposing big wig I'm not too clued up, be good to hear other views. Ps, I would save money on the koshirae idea, and stick with the shirasaya idea

Hi Ben, looking at your latest pics, with the one mekugi-ana, looks Ubu to me, a lot of these type of swords are Machi-okuri, with two mekugi-ana. I see your mekugi-ana goes through part of the mei, someone was none to fussy in the fittings/mei department, see that from time to time. In this case, I guess less care was taken with the non-custom made swords during those times. (sengoku) Its not an arty-farty sword, but a sword made for battle, reminds me of an Uda tachi I own. The Bo-hi is a nice bonus, someone at some time felt the blade was worth it. Looks a decent sword, not Kazu-uchimono, as a lot get labelled, in some of the cases I think unfairly.

Cracking pics!

Hi Darius, have a read of this for starters http://www.japaneseswordindex.com/tsuba.htm

Looks like late Muromachi Uchigatana, as used by the Ashigaru (foot soldiers). Plenty of Sadatsugu,s, as mentioned. Had a quick look for any using Suguha hamon (looks Suguha), one crops up, Tenbun 1530-1550, Satsuma, Suguha or Suguha mixed with Ko-notare Now, I'm not saying this is who made the sword (just an example), just having a quick look. Ben, that's what you need to do, look at all the kantei points, and see what comes up. All fun

Thats the one Jean. Reading my last sentence, folk could be forgiven for thinking im talking home decor, takes a while for the brain to fire up in a morn.

All depends what you want Darius, a wall hanger?, or a sword with some interest?. Folk soon get board with wall hangers. Best.

Darius, I think the price rules are with regards to stuff in the "for sale" section. If you wish to say how much you have to spend on a sword, that's fine. This is a good place to buy, so who knows, name your price and someone may have something. You could place an advert in the "wanted" section. If I were you though, id put it off for a short while, until you get a clear idea of what your looking for, and what price to pay. Learning for a short while will help you spot deals, and spot junk (there is lots out there). Remember whatever you buy, you will one day want to sell, so choose wisely. No rush, stuff always pops up, sometimes better stuff comes along after an hasty buy. One last book recommendation, id buy it whilst its still affordable, probably a great investment https://www.amazon.co.uk/Craft-Japanese-Sword-Leon-Kapp/dp/1568364318?ie=UTF8&*Version*=1&*entries*=0

$473!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! on amazon Only paid £20, wished id bought a dozen.

A few Mino Munenaga listed around Kanbun. Nakago condition matches the age, to me. If you look around you will find Kanbun wakizashi with O-kissaki.

Hi again Darius, this is an excellent starting point for new folk, lots of info http://www.militaria.co.za/nmb/topic/12646-advices-for-newbies-buyers-rules-of-thumb/?hl=%2Brules+%2Bthumb In your new photos, looks to be grain (hada), be good to hear what the guys down there think. Mumei (unsigned) Shinto blades are not as accepted as mumei koto, although there are some that say you should not buy mumei full stop and others like me (not so fussy). Yours may have the mei cut off when shortened = more guessing games. Its good that you are able to send back if not happy, I sent my first purchase back, after reading a few books, it opened my eyes. That book was "the samurai sword, a hand book". Its cheap, many other good starter books out there too. The less guess work with a sword purchase, the better. Good luck with the sword.

Not 7 (one handed katateuchigatana), I was thinking suriage (cut down) kanbun shape (9), or even kanbun being made to look like koto, then changed my mind, looks wide at the kissaki, but I could be wrong lol Defo not Nanbokucho Remember, there are always exceptions to the rules. Getting late here, a lot to this hobby, as you can see

And another http://www.japaneseswordindex.com/sugata/shape.htm

Its difficult from pictures Darius, this may be of use, give you bit more of an idea http://www.yamakawadojo.com/the%20japanese%20sword%20historical%20changes%20in%20shape.pdf

Hello, as long as there are no Hagire (cracks), I think you done well, I like the blade. One point though, better to know what its worth BEFORE buying in future. Be careful on Ebay.

Hard to get a grasp of the sori from pictures, but from what I can see, I'm guessing Momoyama/early Edo. Just to add, better buying swords in good polish, swords are expensive to have polished. You could ask a qualified polisher to polish out a window, and get his opinion.