Grey Doffin

Hi Louie, If this is done intentionally for some useful purpose, wouldn't you expect it to be done better? There isn't a true line anywhere on the nakago, the mekugi-ana is misplaced, and it looks like poop. Why would Japanese sword and koshirae smiths, who tend to do everything else nicely if not meticulously, choose to do this one process in such a slap-dash manner? Grey

Best guess is bad corrosion or abuse; don't think it was supposed to be that way. Grey

Hi guys, I'm assuming that this tsuba (which is for sale on my site) has something to say. Can anyone supply me with Romanji and a literal meaning in English? Thanks, Grey

I wouldn't try to alter the leather on the saya. As is it is original; anything you add will make it less so. Grey

I doubt that the rust will get worse; the oil will stop the process. And there is nothing else you can do to make it better. Grey

Very low end tourist trap, about as bad as it gets. Bone saya. Grey

I don't think the raised seppa-dai is a product of erosion of the surrounding plate; I think the tsuba was made to have the raised dai. Look at the border of the seppa-dai. It is actually a uniform double line. No way this could have been done by corrosion. Doubtless the plate has seen corrosion and in places the seppa-dai has also, but when this tsuba was made the seppa-dai was raised with a carefully carved border. Grey

I would guess that a properly trained polisher could repatinate the nakago so well that only someone with extensive experience would know the difference. Since shinsa panels are populated by people with extensive experience, you're back on the sliding scale I mentioned in my 1st post above. As for value, something as major as a repatinated nakago can't help but affect it negatively. Grey

Hi John, Not sure but best guess is it would be a large negative. If a blade would have been borderline with the nakago intact it would be unpassable with a compromised nakago. Maybe if the blade is otherwise spectacular and/or important it would pass. Grey

Hi guys, I just listed 9 new to me tsuba to my website, including 4 Namban and 3 signed Jakushi. Have a peek if you're interested. Thanks, Grey http://www.japaneseswordbooksandtsuba.com/store/Tsuba-&-Kodogu

where on an antique nihonto would be most useful to take a sample for metallurgical analysis, without diminishing the value/risking its overall integrity? From the side of the mekugi-ana on the nakago would do the least damage but still would do damage. Anywhere else on the blade, even if only a cubic mm, would be desecration. If you can find a broken blade have at it, but since this analysis has been done before and you would be adding nothing new, leave intact blades alone please. Grey

From Gyobutsu Tohaku Meito Oshigata, page 94. Grey

If I understand the book correctly and if I haven't made a mistake with my listing in the index, a sword by this smith was in the Imperial collection when the book was made. Grey

I do believe this is the Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtle from San Francisco, or at least that's what we called him back when he 1st surfaced. My first knowledge of his work was when a friend (who should have known better) gave him a nice wakizashi for polish. The blade came back completely screwed up, a godawful ugly mess. When the friend complained he was told that this had been a particularly difficult job and it could be put right if the friend would allow the polisher to make the wakizashi into a tanto. I kid you not. Grey

Report him every time you see his sale on ebay. Maybe ebay will finally take him down and we will have saved a sword. Grey

Hi guys, Just took in multiple copies of a brand new book by Mike yamasaki and others: Jidai: Timeless Works of Samurai Art. Very nicely done and reasonably priced; here it is on my site, from where you can order a copy if you like. http://www.japaneseswordbooksandtsuba.com/store/books/b921-jidai-timeless-works-samurai-art Thanks, Grey

Hi Bryan, I don't think those are delaminations in the shinogi ji, just slightly coarse grain. Always a good idea to ask who would we recommend for the polish before you send the sword for polish. If you can get to one of the sword shows in the US you can show your sword to Bob Benson (a properly trained polisher, one of 2 in the US, the other isn't Mr. Lohman) and ask his opinion. Grey

I would draw on the glossy side. Grey

I will be there, 1st table inside the door (it helps to share tables with The Big Kahuna). Since I drive to the Chicago show I can bring books. If there is anything on my site you'd like to see and maybe even purchase and not have to pay post on, let me know. Grey

Hi guys, I have the complete set of Nihonto Koza in Japanese and I need to clear some space on my shelves. The set is priced at $375 but could be yours for $300 plus post. Here is a link to the books on my site http://www.japaneseswordbooksandtsuba.com/store/books/b736-nihonto-koza-10-volumes-Japanese If you are interested please send an email, not PM from NMB, because I need my email folders to track business. Cheers, Grey grey@japaneseswordbooksandtsuba.com

Hi Bryan, Shimosaka was a group of smiths. Try google to learn more. Grey

Wooden habaki are made of 2 pieces glued together. Usually when you find a wooden habaki with shira-saya the habaki is part of the tsuka; it doesn't come loose. I can't recall if I've ever seen a stand-alone wooden habaki used on a blade as opposed to a tsunagi. I suppose it's possible but seems like it would be too fragile. Grey

Any glue you use will have to be clamped until it sets, and that can be difficult on something with non-parallel surfaces and as fragile as a wood habaki. A spring clothes pin carefully placed might do the trick. If you try this do a dry run first. Years ago at a demonstartion by a saya maker, I saw him glue a habaki with super glue and clamp it with only his fingers. I asked Chris Bowen, who was in charge of the show, to ask the smith why super glue (I was expecting rice glue). He said that since there would never be a reason to take the habaki apart and since super glue has such a short set time (a minute or so), it was the best choice for the job. This might be the best answer for you. Be careful to use only 1 or 2 drops of the glue and hold it securely bewteen thumb and fingers until the glue sets. Grey

Sue Koto, a translation of work from the NTHK and Yoshikawa Koen, is available from the JSS/US for $50 plus post. This is 2 volumes, 700 some pages of oshigata and text of swords from late Koto, swords that are often found out of the woodwork. As the neurosurgeon said to his patient, "This is a no brainer." Buy the book (contact Harry Watson: afu at suddenlink.net). Grey

In my state, and in others I'm sure, there is something called Use Tax. Any purchases on which you weren't charged sales tax, after a certain $ amount is reached, you are supposed to remit to the state the equivalent amount in use tax. Almost no one pays this because there is no way for the state to know what you buy mail order or online. I pay it for my furniture shop because I have to file income tax returns; if I want to deduct the cost of supplies bought from out of state I better pay the tax. I don't pay it on the book and sword business because the products will be shipped out of state once they are sold. Grey