Grey Doffin

Adam, One man's odd duck is another man's Common Booby. Best to watch my site. Grey

Find a rubber headed mallet and tap on the bottom of the handle to bring the blade back down inside the handle where it belongs. Then you might be able to push out the remainder of the peg or tap it out with a punch and hammer. If this works, be sure to make a new pin right away; the pin is very important. The hole is supposed to be slightly off center, handle to tang of the blade. When the peg is inserted it draws everything together tight. Grey

Hi guys, My business partner Mark Jones and I have recently taken in a large collection of swords and I have been listing some to my website. Yesterday I put up a fine Jumonji Yari (in polish) and I just finished listing a long katana (75.6 cm) with Tokubetsu Hozon paper, signed Echizen no Kami Minamoto Sukehiro (Tsuda Sukehiro). https://www.japaneseswordbooksandtsuba.com/store/swords/q682-long-katana-tsuda-sukehiro-tokubetsu-hozon And there is more to come: some very nice pieces (a large shinsakuto gifted to a Sumo star and a fine daito from the Bizen Kozori School with wonderful itomaki no dachi koshirae come to mind). All are in polish and most have papers. There are good swords for entry level (beginners) also: quality work that won't break the bank. If you have a minute have a look and please keep checking back; I'll be listing more in the next few days. Stay well, Grey

Fake, 100%. Grey

Scroll down for sword care and cleaning: https://nbthk-ab2.org/sword-characteristics/ Grey

I don't think the scabbard is the problem and I see no reason why the blade can't be stored inside it (that's why you purchased the sword, right? So you can display it as a unit). I would make sure the inside of the scabbard is dry. Not likely it isn't but best to make sure. Leave the sword out of it for a few dry days; maybe place the scabbard in direct sunlight so it heats up to hasten drying. In the mean time, clean any loose rust particles from the blade with a cloth rag and apply a very light coat of machine oil (sewing machine or the other oils mentioned above) to the exposed blade (not the nakago). You can then put the sword back in its scabbard and no further damage should occur. You should remove the handle to make sure there is no active red rust on the nakago; let us know if there is and further advice will follow. If the scabbard is metal with a wood liner, it may be possible to remove and clean the liner. Let us know what type scabbard you have. Grey

Hi Charles, You have already good books for basics and appreciation. If you're looking for a book of oshigata to authenticate signatures, the best bang for the buck is probably Fujishiro's Nihon Toko Jiten: https://www.japaneseswordbooksandtsuba.com/store/books/b738-nihon-toko-jiten-fujishiro If you'd like pictures of great pieces with scholarship added, you could do a lot worse than Art of the Samurai by The Metropolitan Museum: https://www.japaneseswordbooksandtsuba.com/store/books/b475-art-samurai-metropolitan-museum There are so many fine books on tsuba and kodogu, it is hard to pick just one. You can browse my website books and if you see something that looks interesting feel free to ask questions. Cheers, Grey

We finally got a new roof last week and finishing up this week, which is the 1 thing that had to be done before the rebuild can start. It has been agonizingly slow progress but should be better now. Maybe back home this November or December. Thanks for asking, Grey

Scroll down for Care & Cleaning: https://nbthk-ab2.org/sword-characteristics/ Grey

Ikkanshi Tadatsuna katana, ubu, in polish, papered, & in koshirae for just less than $10K. https://www.japaneseswordbooksandtsuba.com/store/swords/q655-papered-long-ubu-katana-ikkanshi-tadatsuna Cheers, Grey

Hi Charles, Please tell us what you want to learn from the books and we can do a better job of recommending titles. Are you interested in blades or fittings, Nihonto in general or a specific time or school. Grey

Hi Jim, Pretty sure this is an older blade put into mounts from WWII. No one will be able to tell you too much more about it from pictures; it needs to be seen in hand by someone knowledgeable and honest. The advice you were given to not try to clean or fix anything was right on; don't do it. Make sure you put the bamboo peg back in the handle when you put the sword back together; it is very important. Grey

Hi Malcolm, It could be a 2 piece pressure fit (tapered male & female join) but the slot in one side suggests a 2 piece threaded join. When you apply gentle persuasion, keep in mind that it can be either a right or left hand thread. Grey

Hi Xander, Nakago and tsuba in good condition shouldn't need oiling. The black patina is protective; it guards against rust. Grey

Hi ?, If I had to guess I'd say late koto or early to mid shinto but so much is unknown. Grey

Hi, name please, If the sword has no serious problems/fatal flaws (a big if) it should be worth $750. Grey

Hi Dan, The sword, which is 100% real, is signed Yamato No Kuni Junin Nagamitsu. The paper (I believe that's what you're referring to as COA) is the license every sword in Japan needs to have. It has nothing to say about authenticity, just that it is a sword and what the signature says. This Nagamitsu is most likely not the Nagamitsu you've been reading about. The wakizashi looks to be early to mid Edo period: 17th or early 18th century. Who ever the smith was, he isn't one of the important ones. Nothing wrong with that, though; looks nice. Grey

Hi Matthew, The handle is something someone in the west put together; everything else is original Japanese. This is an older, Samurai sword, not a WWII sword. If you can take a better picture of the tang with signature (rotate the orientation a quarter turn clockwise and use a raking light so the characters stand out), someone here will be able to tell you what it says. Do not attempt to clean or fix anything (looks like someone already tried to clean around the signature, which is unfortunate); well meaning amateurs often do serious damage. Grey

Hi Nick, If the mei is right and there are no serious defects, a polish by a competent togishi is warranted, plus a paper also if you like. My 1st Nihonto, back in 1983 or 4 was a wakizashi by Mitsuhira; he did nice work. Here is the listing in Fujishiro. Grey

What I said last week when another new collector asked the same question: I think you're setting yourself up for disappointment. Under $1K for a Nihonto will get you something that is either low to mediocre quality or a blade with serious problems. When the time comes to sell and move up, you'll have trouble recouping the investment. Double the investment and take the time while you're raising it to study. You'll know more, which will allow you to buy something worthy and pleasing to own. Grey

Yes; Goo Gone. Find it at any hardware store. Grey

Thank you, Grey

Hi guys, Can anyone tell me who has signed this sayagaki and who he is? Thanks, Grey

Hi Thomas, Yes; a legitimate sword and it looks like you have it reassembled correctly (unless the seppa (washers) are on in the wrong order, in which case I'm sure someone who knows these swords better than I do will point out). The red paint are likely numbers to help keep the parts together and they will tell you nothing about the sword's history. Grey

Hi Patrick, You can have a completely new koshirae, with newly made parts, or you can buy antique parts and have them fit to a new saya and tsuka. Unless you try to do either of these on the cheap (then what's the point?), either can be quite expensive. This will be an expense that you likely will never recoup. For instance: if your sword in shirasaya is worth $3,000 and you spend $7,000 on the new koshirae, when done you should be able to sell the lot for $6,000. Collectors would rather have original samurai mounts, not something recently put together by a westerner. The task you have chosen is often the wish of a newbie; far less common with the experienced. But, you say, "I don't plan to sell the sword." Unless you plan to be buried with it, it will be sold, either by you or your family. As mentioned, a much better solution is to buy an existing koshirae you like to display beside your sword in its shirasaya, which is where your sword is best protected. Orphan koshirae (separated from their blades), even those of good quality, can usually be purchased for less than their parts would be worth if bought piece by piece. The theoretical $3,000 sword above could be paired with a $2,000 koshirae and little or no investment would be lost when the time comes to sell. One exception to this would be commissioning a koshirae from a well trained and talented artist. Much more expensive but justifiable for esthetic/artistic/what the hell; I can afford it reasons. Grey