Mark S.

At the very top of this site next to the NMB logo there are 3 lines. Click on it and go to both the Nihonto Info and Downloads section. There is a wealth of FREE information right there. I highly recommend downloading the Nihonto Compendium by Markus Sesko. Then move on to Markus Sesko’s website and there are all kinds of books to purchase. The downloadable books are less expensive and at certain times of year he offers large discounts (usually X-mas, but there have been others). The A-Z of Smiths, the Koto, Shinto, and Shinshinto Meikan, there is a breakdown of schools book (sorry, don’t remember name), and the Encyclopedia are good references. Sooner or later you will be recommended “The Connoisseur's Book of Japanese Swords” by Kokan Nagayama and “Facts and Fundamentals of Japanese Swords” by Nobuo Nakahara Others will give their ideas as well.

Does the nakago condition and shape match the picture on NBTHK THozon papers? If they papered it this way, then at least they felt condition was rather good.

Dew on ginkgo leaves?

It doesn’t look like a mei in that last photo, and it wouldn’t ‘curve’ around the mekugi-ana like that. It could be real?… but it is in very poor condition and the ability to restore is questionable. WAY too many unknowns to blindly make judgments on, not even sure I could do it in hand. Of course this is just my opinion, but I would pass unless they are practically giving it away which is unlikely.

I know it is a minor point, but even the habaki was tailored to fit the hi on the blade. Someone thought highly of this blade.

Very much like it. Well done.

It may be easier to make the glue from rice powder? A little more controllable. Here is a link:

Steve, I really appreciate your time to put this into the proper context for me. You are always extremely generous with your time and knowledge. Mark

Shinsa paperwork and tickets arrived in mail yesterday. If you are submitting items, keep a lookout for your envelope. Thanks to Chris B. and looking forward to the show.

Which is why I stated: “He is recommending the use of paper bands so you won’t be tempted to try some other type of glue or adhesive.” There is a specific reason a specific type of ‘glue’ is used.

Thank you (as always) Steve. I have seen the last two characters referred to as “o tsuruku” and “tsuruku kore”. Based on the context of “made for”, are either of those two correct, or would they read as something else?

Just to add a bit to Grey’s wonderful information, the storage scabbard (shirasaya) is designed to be taken apart if necessary for cleaning and the proper ‘glue’ he mentions is basically a paste made from rice. He is recommending the use of paper bands so you won’t be tempted to try some other type of glue or adhesive that is too permanent and then the scabbard is ruined if it needs to come apart later, or worse the blade is damaged if some of the uncured adhesive gets on the steel. For the peg (mekugi), another alternative to the chopstick is a bamboo knitting needle. They are usually very hard bamboo, fairly well made, and come in several diameters. You will still need to cut and whittle a bit for a good fit.

What is it you would like to know beyond the description provided and the info on the THozon paper?

Trying to decipher a ‘special order’ mei and having a little trouble working it out: 1) Not sure of first character. 2) I have not come across “Kasa” in a mei before, so I provided the formal and less formal versions of the kanji that I could find 3) The second half of the name of the person who ordered it. Taken individually the kanji combine to Hayahito. But I am also led to believe it could be Hayato? 4) Correct version for last two characters in reference to a sword made for someone. Thank you all

Steve went all high tech I had this from Hawley’s “Japanese Swordsmiths Vol 1 & 2” but Steve’s answer is more informative.

Not sure why you would bring them outside in the rain? Water and blades don’t mix. While not fatal, please make sure to do everything to limit any further possible issues. Step 1: DO NOT put blades back in sayas wet or even damp. Wipe everything down with soft dry clean cloth or tissue. Let everything dry out completely and when you think it is dry, wait longer. Wood and other softer items tend to soak up and hold water much longer than we think. Step 2: Wipe blades down with highest percentage isopropyl alcohol you can obtain. Step 3: Oil blades lightly. Search NMB for oil recommendations. Step 4: Do not attempt red rust removal until you do a bunch of research here at NMB on proper techniques. Trying to do it quickly or incorrectly will do more damage.

And some other questions you need to ask yourself… what is it about this blade you like? What do you hope to learn from it? What ‘boxes’ does it check for you and your collecting goals? Only you can decide if this blade makes you happy. If you ask others, they will tell you their opinion based on if the blade makes them happy… and that is ok too. But YOU have to live with it and look at it every day. Just a bit of advice though… and this is only to save you money or disappointment (not to dissuade you)… you might want to take some time and study more (although, I admit I don’t know how much you have already done this) so you can answer the “why am I buying this?”, “what is it worth TO ME?”, and more knowledge of “is it real and what is it?” on your own, not to say we don’t mind helping. We always recommend buying books and studying more first. There will ALWAYS be more blades… ALWAYS. Just don’t want you to rush into a purchase, but I DO understand the excitement. We have all been there.

The ‘generosity’ of our members never ceases to amaze!

I will have to remember this. The ring of arrows (#3) would be one I would look at, now I will have to make sure I’m looking twice. Thanks for the heads up.

I just learned something new today. I apologize from the bottom of my heart for giving out incorrect information and my ignorance.

It really would be call for a qualified polisher. If the answer is “no”, then you still have a few options: 1) The polisher could open a couple windows in safer spots so you could see and appreciate some of the activity, 2) you could gently treat the blade to some uchiko and over time some of the activity could show, or 3) leave it as is, keep the blade stable, and try to appreciate what you can see until you decide to keep or pass on.

I am a bit confused, but that is nothing new. Would it be possible to get a picture of the papers and oshigata along with the score sheet? I assume you are speaking of the San Francisco show? Were they doing oshigata right there at the show? Doesn’t seem like there would be enough time to make oshigata for every blade?

And it would be helpful if you would define ‘value’. Value is a very subjective term. By ‘value’, do you mean real and authentic? Well then yes, it is a real WW2 era blade. It has ‘value’ to some who collect WW2 era blades but less value to those who only collect earlier blades. If you like it, can afford it, and enjoy it, then it has value to you.

Not sure if I am reading your question right, but I think most papers are now all photo at least at Hozon and Tokubetsu Hozon level and both the NTHK organizations. Date has more to do with photo vs. oshigata than anything else (older papers are oshigata).