Mark S.

When being condescending is the real “marrow of the bone”, being gracious and ‘helping’ really isn’t a consideration.

Sometimes it's helpful to be nice to our new members and answer their questions.

Years ago, my first 'real' nihonto purchase was a mumei Kai-Mihara katana that the NTHK-NPO (Miyano Sensei, may he RIP) had attributed to Den Masamori. My second blade was an inexpensive mumei wakizashi I came across at a show that had very similar attributes to the katana and I thought would make a nice companion blade, although I wasn't sure which school it was. At a later NTHK-NPO shinsa... yep... Den Kai-Mihara Masashige. I guess I had an eye for Kai-Mihara blades. Since that time, I have always liked Mihara blades, although I would like to start saving/looking for a much earlier time period Mihara blade someday. I know the later school isn't looked at with as much appreciation as some, but they still speak to me. Hard to tell from pictures, but I would have expected to see a bit more kaeri on this blade? It may be there... I just can't see it. Here are just a couple Mihara references you might be interested in... if you haven't found them already. https://markussesko.com/2013/09/04/the-rise-and-fall-of-the-bingo-smiths/ http://www.nihontocraft.com/Mihara_Nihonto.html http://www.sho-shin.com/sanyo13.htm

VERY!

Tsuba arrived today. Well packaged and exactly as described. Very nice tsuba.

For kata, an unsharpened iaito is usually recommended as it is far less dangerous to the user... and to the blade. What has your instructor recommended? Will a sharpened blade, mounted as it currently is, be allowed in the dojo? Does the size, style and weight match the style you are practicing and your body size/type? Wouldn't it make more sense to know "what it is" before you buy it?

Don't know why it took me this long to find this. Thank you... looks like some interesting things in there.

If minor, then a qualified polisher can usually address those problems with no issue. But until you get it into qualified hands, it's tough to give a definitive answer by pictures. I am concerned a bit about the condition of the kissaki area. It "looks" like some extensive rust has been removed by someone, the geometry of the blade in that area looks "off", lines have been rounded off vs other parts of blade, and I'm not sure how much is left to re-shape to be correct (all based on pics that are tough to see or may just be some issues with reflections, etc.). I would also suggest a bit more research as the article does state that sometimes students signed the Yasumitsu name on their blades.

I might be going out on a limb, but the nie in the shinogi-ji and possible muneyaki and some of the other activity might possibly point toward the Bitchu Mizuta school or something similar? I know this is a wild a$$ guess based on the pics and my limited knowledge.

Interesting article on Yasukunito (Yasukuni Shrine) blades: http://www.jp-sword.com/files/yasukuni/yasukunito.html

Interesting article from Markus Sesko about the shapes of the mekugi-ana. https://markussesko.com/2013/09/14/the-secret-world-of-mekugi-ana/

Yasumitsu I think the full date reads First 2 kanji = Showa (starts 1926) 3rd & 4th kanji = 10 + 4 = 14 (14th year of the Showa period = 1939) 5th kanji = Nen (year) 6th kanji = 1 7th kanji = Gattsu (month) 8th kanji = Kichi (Lucky) 9th kanji = Hi (day) So it would read: " A lucky day in January, 1939" I believe he might be a Yasukuni smith? There are many here who will be able to help out much more.

Without the blade in hand and no pictures of nakago, it is difficult to judge. This blade might survive as the hamon is still visible. Most buff jobs make the whole blade shiny but no activity is discernible. All I’ll say is “maybe”.

I started backing some of the info up but didn’t finish all. There was a promise from a family member to Brian that the info would be available. Not sure what was worked out or how or what form it will take, but I’m sure something will happen. It seemed like family wanted his info to be his legacy. Such a sad situation with his passing. Information from Darcy should be honored and cherished and live on.

There are lots of reasons blades don’t sell, and it isn’t necessarily a judgement of your blade or the quality vs price you are asking. Right now maybe it just doesn’t fit into the collections ‘of the people who have seen it’ and probably the main issue is that no one has the approx $5000 in their wallet they are willing to part with right now. Don’t be discouraged.

And selecting the correct stones (many many different types) and techniques to match the time period, school, and smith to bring the blade back to what the smith originally intended and to see the most in the blade. Polishing is not a one size fit all… it is specific to the blade with a multitude of techniques. Clean and shiny isn’t the goal.

Please go here: There is a discussion on amateur polishing. While it is a bit strongly worded and really aimed at people who pretend to polish Japanese swords as a 'hobby' or for whatever other reason they feel it is OK, I think it may answer some questions on why polishing Japanese swords ISN'T like any other type of sword. I also don't want to re-hash all this information here. Please read it and understand it is not a personal criticism of you... but we all have to learn somehow and sometimes education comes with a bit of pain. Hope you stay with us and continue to learn! Not sure what you mean by "cotton polish", but if it is a mechanical process (spinning wheel?) then it isn't doing the blade any good.

Difficult to determine much from the photos and state of polish. Shape hints at late Shinto into Shin-Shinto. Fittings appear to have seen better days. The appearance of the area in the Ha-machi (area where the sharpened edge meets the tang) 'looks' like it might be rather healthy and blade may not have seen too many polishes, but that is pure speculation. Others may have other opinions, but that's the best I can do for now. Trying not to assume what you do or don't know, just want to be sure... Do not touch blade with bare hands, NEVER clean nakago (tang). You can gently clean blade with microfiber cloth or plain soft tissue (non-scented or no other lotion added tissue) and as close to 100% isopropyl alcohol as possible. DO NOT use any type of metal or jewelry polish of any sort. A shiny sword is NOT a well polished sword. Huge difference. Also, after cleaning, a bit of light oil (sewing machine oil) or Japanese choji scented oil (from sword supply dealers) may help as well to stop additional rusting (very light coat). Don't be afraid to ask questions before you do anything to blade or fittings.

Mino?

PM Sent

Wow! Thank you for the in-depth response and taking the time to provide the reference. I really do appreciate it.

Picked this up for $2… is it something that can be translated? Also, kinda strange, it is mounted horizontally instead of vertically? There are hangers on either end like you would see at the top of a normal vertical kakemono scroll. My guess is this might be someone’s calligraphy class project and it got mounted strangely? I don’t know why camera adjusted colors to make it look like it is two different pieces put together? It’s all one piece. Thank you for your time.

Count me in… and I might bring along a Beerenauslese for dessert!

Before: After: a soak in mild detergent, wash with microfiber cloth, some light scrubbing with very tiny modeling swabs, a little work with wood toothpicks, and rubbing with the 99% alcohol and the tiny swabs, I think it came out ok. I really tried not to overdo and figured any dirt remaining needs to be there.

I looked at it MANY times and walked away many times (just to give me time to decide). Too many things to look at, then I start to calculate how many purchases I can make, then if I get this I can’t get that. It really is the best kind of torture. I missed out on a couple tsuba I was interested in because I waited, but such is life. It was a great show and there was more I wanted than I could afford ALWAYS!