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Lee Bray

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Everything posted by Lee Bray

  1. Tsuba is cast, wrap looks like cotton, fittings look like pot metal, samegawa looks like plastic. Can't say anything about the blade because we can't see it. If those are the best pics the seller provides, I'd leave well alone.
  2. Lee Bray

    Battle scar?

    :D Chaps...I realise I'm no comedian and that sarcasm does not translate well into the written word but I did think my post was fairly obvious. I was trying to counter the opinion that this cut in Roy's sword could not be a kirikomi due to the fact that that's not how it's done in sword fighting/parrying. There are a multitude of scenarios where it could happen. Is it a kirikomi? Is it a welding flaw? Doesn't really look like either from the picture and we could speculate all day long on what it is or isn't. Is it an 'annoying distraction', like Roy says. Yep. And probably what most readers think about me by now...
  3. Lee Bray

    Battle scar?

    Impossible, Alex. Samurai were the only people allowed to use a sword and they had to do ten years in the dojo before being allowed a live blade. Their strict adherence to the rules of Bushido meant they could only fight face to face against one other Samurai in perfect conditions, preferably in the dojo, but on a deserted beach was allowed on occasion. So, any scenario where this could happen, couldn't happen. Honest. :|
  4. Impurities; silicates(glass), phosphorous, excess carbon. Old steel is full of them. That's why it was folded to drive them out. Modern steel has very little, if any, of them. Plus, modern has the ability to add advantageous elements such as manganese and vanadium to increase strength.
  5. Why? Breaking is due to brittleness, which is a function of heat treatment. Plenty of good quality traditional blades have broken - hagire. A good quality modern monosteel with the correct heat treatment is where my money is going everytime if we're talking 'strength'. But for either artistic or artifact purposes, I'll take Nihonto. Probably why I read Nihonto message board and not the Crowbar message board.(thrilling place though that maybe... )
  6. Looks more like Kanetomo, to me. Possibly late Koto, Mino school.
  7. Those kanji look to be the ones, John, and late Edo looks right for the fittings. To me, the last kanji is mura, not koku, but I could be wrong. I wonder if it has any connection to the Murata family you mention? Cheers, guys. Fittings are a full matching set of monkeys with some kind of fruit.
  8. You're probably right, John, odds are that it's Fujiwara. I wasn't seeing Fujiwara though, so wondered if it was one of theSukesada who signed with a first name as well. Cheers.
  9. This mei is on the side of a silver fuchi. It is not in my possession but I have the owners permission to post this and ask for a translation. Using Self & Hirose, I get the first kanji as (1196) Sei, Jo or Mori, the second kanji as (1028) Min and the third as (838) Mura. This makes no sense to me so I hope someone can clarify the translation. Thanks in advance.
  10. I've been attempting to translate this for a chap on another forum but I failed on a couple of kanji. I have the owners permission to post this pic and ask for a complete translation. I managed to get Yokoyama Kozuke Daijo X X Sukesada. Thanks for any help.
  11. Read "The Art of Japanese Sword Polishing" by Setsuo Takaiwa, Yoshindo Yoshihara, Leon and Hiroko Kapp. It details the use of copper sulfate, nitric acid and enamel which are "...sometimes used on swords to save time."
  12. The above blade is for sale if anyone wants it... http://www.swordforum.com/forums/showth ... r-koshirae "Restoration" was done by Aaron Justice, who sent it to E.Roush for 'sashikomi' polish...
  13. Hi t1mpani When Chris says fake signature, he means gimei, not a fake blade. The Japanese have added fake signatures(gimei) to swords for centuries: sometimes to deceive, sometimes as a dedication, sometimes because it was Wednesday... Higashiyama ju Yoshihira was a high level smith that worked at the end of the 1500's, early 1600's. Clearly your blade is not from that period so it is safe to say that Yoshihira did not make your blade, hence the gimei call. As I said in the BF thread, this is likely a WW2 piece, probably shortened (please note I didn't say 'actually') from a longer sword that had been damaged or had a flaw. With the chippy mei style which is common in WW2 mei, and that it is signed on the blade itself, I'd say this is just a 'nod of the hat' to the older smith as opposed to a signature intended to deceive.
  14. Some Tanaka school tsuba use gold on their sekigane. A simple google search will show that. To say that sekigane never had gold on them is wrong. These sekigane show on the inside of the ana if you look carefully. I also see crosshatching under the gold 'splotches'- nunome zogan. Seems to be slight wear in the seppa dai area from mounting. Surface iron doesn't look cast to me. I think this tsuba has been denigrated prematurely. I agree the mei is a little funky looking but nothing else strikes me as fake. Late Edo, maybe later, copy of a Tanaka school tsuba.
  15. If it's a trap, lock me in it, cos I'll be happy looking at that superb work all day long. (Hamano?)
  16. I think you are wrong, hypothetically. Unless you have made your name over some time selling quality steel, modern swords go for very little. A couple of the best names like Howard Clark and Antony DiCristofano seem to sell with regularity but most sit on their stock for some time. The most active sword forum around is SBG which deals mostly with swords swords below US$300, fully mounted. Chinese forges are knocking them out by the hundreds. One of the most popular low end, fully mounted functional swords sells for US$80! US$80! (repeated for effect) Even custom swords from Chinese forges are selling for a few hundred as opposed to thousands. I think a skillful Chinese smith would welcome the chance to create some slightly better swords for this dubious market. Just look at the nakago on these pieces... my H.Clark and modern Chinese katana have more patina on them and they are just several years old. These nakago that Adrian linked to were filed and stamped last week.
  17. No need for alarm, gentlemen. That's silver foil on the nakago. Someone told the op it would highlight the kanji.
  18. Hizen (no) Kuni Yoshimune. Late Edo smith, I think.
  19. Well worth attending just for the wealth of knowledge and stuff you don't generally get to see. I went to 2010 & 2011 DTI, bought nothing and was happy as a pig in poop. Would have done the same last year and this coming year but times are what they are so I'll read about it enviously...
  20. Ron, you bugger, that was me... I couldn't translate the mei on the Tanaka school tsuba...anyone out there tell me what it was? A friend of mine had a bid on that sword but as we couldn't recognise the name and I thought the work wasn't great for that school, we only bid low. Surprised that it went for 4k...bit of a gamble unless it's one of the better names in the school.
  21. Here you go - http://www.joelscoins.com/Japan.htm Scroll down a little and you'll see your piece.
  22. Ron, the dragon kojiri on my wakizashi is formed in two separate halves and soldered/brazed together. Edit - The two halves aren't separate, rather it's a one piece construction, folded in the centre with the top and side brazed together.
  23. Here's a reasonable, almost complete set on a wakizashi of mine. https://picasaweb.google.com/1083860067 ... sGU8vnx4gE Fuchi, kashira, kuchigane and kojiri are matching but the kurikata and the cap on the kodzuka slot were missing. Menuki are of shakudo and the tsuba that came with it originally didn't match or fit so I replaced it with the current piece.
  24. If anyone has a burning desire to cut bamboo, we have plenty of it growing wild. If you want to cover my time and shipping, I'd be happy to chop some down and send it on. From arrow bamboo of up to 1cm thick to timber bamboo of up to 15cm thick(hard to come by), we have most varieties. Common type is around 3cm to 5cm and has two varieties; thick wall ~ 8mm and thin wall ~4mm. Unsure on maximum shipping lengths but 4ft should at least be doable as I've shipped 4ft packages before. Just a thought in case anyone was interested.
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