Marius

Chris, do you mean you don't see higher resolution pics? Maybe try: http://s1150.photobucket.com/albums/o61 ... roi_doshi/ and then double-click each pic to see a slightly larger version. I really hate Photobucket with its crappy interface and its strange quirks, and most of all its infantile "Like" button. Anyway, I hope you can see something in those enlarged pics....

I have got the tanto now. I have made some macro pictures, most of them in sunlight. Plus a few pics of the sugata. All for you to enjoy and comment. I have formed my opinion and now, gents... faites vos jeux! http://s1150.photobucket.com/albums/o61 ... ?start=all

You will have 20 soon, so forget about the rack There might come a moment when you will want to sell most of the swords you have to buy something better. But by that time you will know what "better" means. Hopefully your purchases will allow you to get the knowledge needed. I think you would benefit from a mentor who guides you and shows you why great swords are great. Putting your next 10 purchases on the NMB will not give you great insights, just attributions based on pictures. Most collectors you meet here on the NMB would encourage you to slow down with your purchases and learn instead of acquiring more swords (some of which you seem to hope might turn out "important" pieces). Some people here have already given you this advice, in a subtle way like Dr. Barrett and in a very direct way, like Jacques. Of course it is for you to decide what to do. Having said that, may I add that what you have acquired here is a good sword in good polish. And it will give you some opportunity to learn. Papering it is a good idea, maybe you should try to research it first?

Jacques is absolutely right. The boshi has a kaeri, while cut down naginata have yakizume boshi. (sorry, I see Paul has noticed this already)

The most likely cause is that the blade was wrapped in some kind of cloth over an extended period of time. Was it moisture or chemicals in the cloth? Could have been wrapped in this lovely foil that expands and sticks to the surface (what is it called?) I think it was the latter. Conclusion: never wrap your sword in anything. Keep it slightly oiled if necessary (I don't as it is ratehr dry here) and keep it in its shirasaya.

sh..t happens (when two nihonophiles clash)

Chris, thanks for pointing this out. Of course, welding techniques are now so advanced that I can imagine a shinshinto with a koto nakago, and that the whole thing is not easy to find out without specialist tools. However, I think the whole operation would make "commercial" sense only for a big name signature nakago being welded to a nameless, but otherwise very good tanto. This tanto does not match these criteria and the nakago is mumei. If you indicate repatination - now, that is always an option and I can just hope that good, deep patina is difficult to fake I have bought this tanto knowing the risks. I hope it is koto and I may be wrong. If I am wrong, my case will be of educational value to others. And in the worst case, I will end up with an inexpensive shinshinto :-) If so, I would compare it with my four tantoall of which are koto).

Grev, it is not so difficult :-) Why don't you try: http://www.jssus.org/nkp/index.html (choose the nihonto kanji tab)

Paul, that is what makes it interesting :-) Koto or shinshinto? I am sure it will be an interesting diuscussion concerning an average tanto, hopefully representative for a certain period, tradition and school :-)

Guys, just to let you know I have bought this tanto from Mike. I am a sucker for tanto, and I used to have a yoroi-doshi by Tosa Yoshimitsu, which I still regret to have sold. I will post pictures of this tanto as soon as it arrives. My guess is still sue-koto, but of course I may be wrong. I will try to post close ups of the hada, as this seems to have been one of the factors that got this tanto its shinshinto attribution in this thread. I know it is quite difficult to say anything from pictures, but I believe to see a nakago which indicates koto. I am curious how the actual nioiguchi looks like, as opposed to the effects of a kesho polish. We shall see, I hope you will enjoy the pics. It will take a while, though, so please be patient :D

If any member of the Board buys this tanto, I would be grateful for some better pictures posted here. Never mind the koshirae, but am intrigued by the nakago (seems ubu with patina indicating Koto) and also by the healthy hamon on an otherwise polished-down blade. I dislike the streaks of ara-nie running through the monouchi (a sign of low quality IMHO) and I am suspicious of the fat habuchi. I would almost think saiha, but the nakago does not show any sign of retempering. Overall, an interesting puzzle.

Look here: viewtopic.php?f=2&t=13012&hilit=three+identical "Your" tsuba looks like another one that has come out of this workshop, except for the missing squirrel. They must have been very prolific :-)

Very short blade with deep curvature - torii zori. Typical naginata would be saki zori. Still, blade and habaki look Japanese. Interesting artifact. Mark is right - definitely not Koto.

Oh, really? Where? In some deeply hidden sub-page? This should be posted on the first page and it should be immediately clear that the site is suspended. If I were the owner, I would take the site offline. Anyway, I would suggest EOT, there is no point wasting more time on that one.

Christian, thanks for the information. I would suggest you take the site down until you have time to answer emails and actually sell your items.

Looking for opinions and experience with realnihonto.com. The site is a royal pain in the neck - it has a positively weird photo browser, it gives you no prices, and it requires registration (to be approved by the owner of the site) if you want to... well, I don't know what benefits you get from registration Maybe there is a good dealer behind it, but the site is extremely discouraging. I would immediately forego it, but a friend of mine has asked me to buy some tsuba for him, up to a certain price limit. I am waiting the second day to be admitted to registration and I am quite irritated about this. Any experience with that seller? Apart from the obvious pain-in-the-neck site? thanks

Dimitri, Please have a look at the boshi - it it is yakizume (no turn-back), chances are you have a cut down pole-arm (I would use the term naginata naoshi to avoid any nagamaki controversy). Also, a pronounced saki-zori would indicate a naginata naoshi. Please look at these two swords: http://nihonto.us/BITCHU%20AOE%20NAGINATANAOSHI.htm http://www.nihontocraft.com/Hojoji_Nagi ... zashi.html Your pics do not show the sugata, so it is rather hard to say what your sword is. You said the sori is shallow - that would indicate a shinto sword, but of course that is not the only criterion.

David, Owari tsuba have beautiful purplish-black colour. Hard to say from the picture if that is the case here. As for tekkotsu - I am not sure if one irregularity in the rim can be classified as tekkotsu. An interesting tsuba, nonetheless.

Adam, if you don't want Steve's sword's polish get marred, you might want to mention that he should stay away from uchiko. It is so easy to make nasty hike-kizu.

Brian, I guess you are making a hasty conclusion here, no? This is the old wakizashi myth ("it is long, unshortened, so it was likely a merchant weapon"), and this myth imakes wakizashi less desirable (at least to some "collectors"). I am sorry, but none of us knows who has owned the sword. The sword should be judged by its quality only. But, if, stating this myth, you want to say that it makes no sense to apply all those romantic notions of samurai and history and battle scars, I could not agree more. @Brian (the Mihara owner) Don't get carried away with a swords alleged history. Brian (the Admin) is right about the kirikomi - that is pure nonsense. It might have been in battle, so what? That doesn't make it a good sword. Unless a sword has provenance (eg. Tokugawa family heirloom), who cares?

@Peter, I guess this very sound advice is rarely taken. I always envy those beginners who start with a very good sword an keep discipline. I have started with low-end stuff, got ripped off a few times, I have accumulated two dozens swords, out of which only a few were good, none great. I have now only five swords, mostly tanto, and again, none of them is great Well, at least they are all quite good, solid swords. I guess Brian is just enthusiastic and that is a very good thing. He will get some exposure to swords, loose some money but after a while he will start buying rarely but in a very selective manner. And we can wish him good luck. BTW, a sue-Mihara (if real) should be a decent blade and not expensive. @Brian, Brian, have you read this excellent article on the school? http://www.nihontocraft.com/Mihara_Nihonto.html Also, if you want to see a good Mihara sword, here is one: http://www.legacyswords.com/fs_ant_daito23.htm

OK guys, Let me issue my favorite opinion: it is neither tosho nor katchushi. It is of course... cast Sorry, I couldn't hold back But, seriously, Brian - you are right, all categorization attempts regarding pre-Edo tsuba are more or less futile. I have the same thing with soft metal tsuba. But... it is convenient and responds to our (the collectors) needs to put things in those little boxes :D

I did not say it was mandtory :-) Also, not all katchushi had a raised rim. Also, the composition of the sukashi seems odd for a ko-tosho.

My take: Ko-katchushi If it were ko-tosho it would taper toward the rim. It is thin, so it is not Edo tosho (they did not taper but were thick). Pity it seems to have has seen some rust, but I think I can see some good hammer work on the plate.

I wish Ford would comment on this one. He has the best expertise here.