Grey Doffin

Of course, the style of chisel. Thank you. Grey

Hi guys, A set of woodworker's chisels (which might be for sale) comes in boxes with the label below. I can make out, "Betsu Atsurae Yoshitora Saku (special order made by Yoshitora), but the rest has me stumped (Shirizoku?....). I'd be most appreciative if someone can help. Thanks, Grey

I'm not aware of a cheap and easy copy of the Fuller & Gregory book. It is out of print and not likely to be reprinted. Copies do come available but tend to sell north of $300. Jim Dawson's new book, Swords of Imperial Japan 1868-1945: Cyclopedia Edition is as good and probably a more comprehensive reference, and it is in print at $125 plus postage Grey

Tliston, Definitely an older blade mounted in what might be a mix of WWII and other koshirae. The badly rusted nakago is a problem (a sign of neglect, not age). The blade also looks a bit tired (polished a few too many times) in some of the pictures. It also looks to be a bit longer than standard for WWII blades? I think the habaki is interesting. Make sure there is a pin through the hole in the handle and nakago. This is very important on a Japanese sword. Whittle a chopstick if the original one is missing. Don't know what else I can tell you from the photos. If someone knowledgeable and trustworthy could see it in hand he could tell you much more. Grey

One reason would be the large difference in the number of items involved. There have been 3 volumes of Yushu rated swords printed, with about 150 swords per volume. 450 swords total. The 1st Juyo shinsa was in about 1953 and there has been one a year since. In some years there were close to 450 items passing to Juyo-Token. I don't know the total number but it is likely between 5 and 10 thousand. Might it also be related to the natures of the 2 organizations? Correct me if mistaken but my impression of the NTHK during Yoshikawa Koen's life is of a smaller and more clubish group than the NBTHK. If this is so it seems that the good blades would be more likely to be traded among the members than on an open market. And lest anyone misunderstand, there is nothing bad about being smaller and clubish. Any case, that's my take on the matter. Interested to hear other's take. Grey

How about "Morisada Kore wo Tsukuru"? Whether this is worthy of remount and polish depends on a bunch of stuff. Is it a true signature or gimei, is it retempered, are there terrible kizu (defects), is it tired, and not the least, what do you hope to get out of it? By which I mean, does it have sentimental value, do you hope to learn about Nihonto from the experience and seeing the blade in polish, and do you hope to someday sell it at a profit? Grey

Jason, The signature reads, "Noshu Seki no Ju Kanehiro Saku", made by resident of Seki, Mino Province, Kanehiro. The red characters are the nimber 2005 followed by 4. The numbers are for inventory purposes. The Showa Arsenal stamp above the signature guarantees that the blade dates to the WWII era (late 30s to 1945). Grey

Hi Dave, The mei reads "Higashiyama Ju Yoshihira". If it is right the blade dates to about 1681. Bad kizu (defects) on the blade, which could mean: polished too many times and worn out, gimei of a good smith on a bum blade, or retempering. Proceed with caution. Grey

Correct me if mistaken, but I don't think there is any way to classify a sword as Mantetsu unless Mantetsu is signed on the nakago. The use of Manchurian iron doesn't give the blade any special attribute different from a blade made with other iron. Mantetsu blades fetch a higher price because of the label, not because of quality. If the sword doesn't have the label it shouldn't sell at a premium. Grey

Thanks for the list, Pete; I've been wondering when it would be made public. It's my understanding that not all objects will be on view through the whole run, that some will be rotated in & out. Maybe the Met would know what/when if someone wanted to see a specific item. If you have an interest in Nihonto and you can possibly get to New York for the show, go. The importance and quality of the items included is exceptional. The O-Kanehira is one of the 5 great swords of Japan. The Bizen Saburo Kunimune Kokuho tachi is likely the one that Dr. Compton found and returned to Japan and is supposed to be spectacular. Once in a lifetime is a cliche but it wouldn't be out of place if used to describe this show. Grey

Moriyama-san and Nakamura-san, Thank you for your help. Grey

Hi guys, 6 Kanji I think, the 5th might be Kane. Can you tell me what this says? The 1st picture, which you may have to click to open, is probably the best. I've played with color and saturation to make it more readable; this isn't the real look of the nakago. And the sword will be for sale, if anyone cares about that. Thanks, Grey

Hi Charlie, The 1st Kanji in Idzumi is partially missing, but not so much that it is unreadable. With practice you'll recognize the Kanji; it's not that difficult. You need a set of my flashcards (if I may be so brazen). The Kanji were chosen to be relevant to sword signatures, they are written, not print, so they more closely match what you find on swords, and no other way I know of will teach you as quickly. Grey

Idzumi no Kami Kanesada. Grey

Hi Joe, I realized when I clicked on "Submit" that you might take offense with my posting, but the point I was trying to make called for clarity, not diplomacy. This is a forum about Nihonto; I assumed that was what you were getting at. Had you said upfront that you planned to polish blades you make I wouldn't have answered; you can do to them as you like. Any case, sorry for my share of the misunderstanding. Grey

If someone has proper training to polish Nihonto he will know which stones to use and when to use them. If he doesn't have proper training he should leave polishing to those who do. Grey

Which means that if you use it to cut (tameshigiri), you might get seriously injured when the blade shatters on impact. Grey

I'll be there, trying my best not to put my foot in anything. Of course, all of you not going to the show will be sure not to post anything interesting in the "for sale" section until we get home. Thanks. Grey

Dave, 1st make sure that there isn't a 2nd mekugi further down the tsuka. If not, and if we're dealing with gunto koshirae with cast tsuba or koshirae with an iron tsuba without soft metal inlay, the following technique should work easy and should do no damage. Fold a bath towel in thirds lengthwise and lay it on a counter with about 6' of the towel hanging over the edge. Lay the side of the blade on the towel with the tsuka hanging over the edge (if there is a spring clip through the tsuba use the other side of the blade on the towel). Now bring the tsuka forward so the tsuba bumps into the towel and counter edge. It might take a few bumps and you might have to gradually increase force, but very soon the blade will break lose from its accumulated rust and start to exit the tsuka. It is never necessary to remove the sarute. Once again, don't use this technique with soft metal koshirae; it could suffer damage. Hope this helps, Grey

Hi Markus, The signature on your sword doesn't match the signatures for the well known Umetada Shigeyoshi in Fujishiro and Nihonto Zuikan (the 2 references I've checked). According to Hawleys there was a 2nd smith who might have signed this way but I have no references for his work. Rice glue is the only option for fixing the saya. I hesitate to tell you how to use it because your question about using nails to fix it tells me that you have no experience with wood work. It's better that the saya stay as is than to be glued improperly. Is there someone who works on sayas you could send it to for repair? Hope this helps. Grey

Umetada Shigeyoshi. 17th century if the signature is right. No nails on the scabbard. It needs to be properly reglued with rice glue; anything else is forbidden. Grey

Hi Karen, No one here will be able to help you unless we can see some pictures of your sword: the mounts, the blade, and the tang of the blade. Then it should be obvious if it's real or not. Grey

And continue to store the blade in its koshirae. Even in less than ideal condition, the koshirae provide the best protection. Grey

Hi Charlie, Here's a quick, easy, and totally reversible method to temporarily fix the saya. You will need masking tape and white paper. Cut a strip of paper about a half inch wider than the tape and long enough to go around the saya about 1 1/2 times. Wrap the paper around the saya below where you want it to be, and tightly wrap the paper with the tape. Now push the tape/paper up towards the top of the saya (koi-guchi). Since the diameter of a saya increases as you approach the koi-guchi, as you push the paper up it will tighten. You might have to try a time or 3 before you get it right and maybe you'll want a 2nd paper/tape below the top one, but once in place the saya will be as tight as when new. What's more, since the tape isn't touching the saya no damage will be done; the paper can be slid back down when necessary and it won't leave a mark. I do this to shira-saya whenever I ship a sword, whether the saya's split or not, just as insurance against a split developing due to a bump in transit. You can do a permanent fix of the saya with rice glue if you know how, but this is probably best left to someone with experience fixing sayas. Whatever you do, do not use any other type of glue. Grey

I agree totally. Often the mounts are bone gussied up to look like old ivory, but even if ivory they are almost always dock work (sold near the dock to sell to departing tourists). Grey