Drago

But wouldn'T they use "ロ" for the "lo" in Lombardo?

Isn't this ボムパルド? (bo-mu-pa-ru-do) But I seriously have no idea how to read that - Bompardo? Is that an Italian name? "Bompard" is a French name though.

Thanks. I'll give him a call.

Hi, (I tried looking for "shinsa", but the search told me the term was too common...) Lately I've been thinking about submitting a Nara fuchi-kashira I have for shinsa. Actually, the only tosogu set I have besides gunto parts, but I love it dearly. Before I think about this in earnest, I'd like to get a general idea as to the process, so please allow me to ask a few questions or please point me to the appropriate thread: 1. What organization would you recommend? 2. What certificate levels do they have? 3. How long does it usually take? 4. How much does it usually cost? 5.1 Is there a reliable middle-man in Germany to organize this for me? 5.2 or if I do this on my own, is there a list of steps I should take? Thank you very much.

Wow. Never seen anything like that before. I like it. Just imagine how much work was put into that so everything would fit - overall on tsuka, kashira, menuki... Only thing that somewhat dampens it for me is that the knot is rather rear is rather large.

I see. Thank you very much. So when I soon order my ito from Heibei, I might also order a piece of bamboo for mekugi.

Hi, on many webistes they offer mekugi made from bamboo or horn. Is there a difference (besides the different material of course)? Is one stronger or more durable? Thank you.

He has a Facebook link to a current project and it's correct there. Besides, I'd only get a new wooden core. I don't have menuki yet so wrapping would be done later and by someone else.

Thanks. I ordered two sets of honoki wood and I'll get one or two new chisels. Well, I know it's much more difficult than it looks. And if I screw both up I'll have a new one made by someone who's done this before. One more reason why I think about doing this is that it was a pain living without the sword for half a year. I was always worried I'd get a call he dropped it and the tip broke or that it was rusting... You know: I was thinking about having the nakago scanned and a plastic model printed. We talked about this before. But unfortunately I don't know anyone here who can do that.

Hi, after spending 700 Euro on a new tsuka and then finding out it is too thin (the rest is perfect (fit of nakago, ana, fit of fittings)) I decided to try to save some money and make a new tsuka myself. I worked with wood before. I'm not perfect, but I know the basics. To anyone who has done this before or know how professionals do it: 1. I heard the mune and ha side of the nakago should be almost completely covered by one half of the tsuka so the gluing seem is not direcly on the mune. Is that correct? After looking at the original (broken) tsuka I have, that was not the case... 2. The nakago ana on the blade and tsuka are always very slightly displaced. Any tips on how to to that properly? 3. What glue? I know rice glue is originally used, but to make some from a not readly available rice-type and just fo a tsuka... I was thinking normal wood glue (Holzkaltleim for our German members). ---OR:--- If you can suggest a good and reasonably fast tsuka maker in Germany, preferably Bavaria... Feel free to give recommendations. I had to drive to Hamburg for the old one and it took 6 months! Thanks!

I'm not an expert, but don't those mon look they were added later?

The reason I asked for the difference was this: The subforum here is called KATCHU. But searching for that hardly brings any results on eBay. But YOROI on the other hand does. I'm not saying I really intend to buy on eBay, but I keep looking for pictures and perhaps one lucky shot. So for me it is only natural to ask what the difference is.

Ooh! I see. Thank you very much! :D

Hi, well, my interests lie more in swords than armor, although I have to say I am interested in Kote. So could you please explain to me, who has absolutely no idea, what the difference between Yoroi and Katchu is. Thanks.

Thanks. But how do you read the title? My dictionary didn't list that kanji-combination...

Hi, I found this book in a small antique book store near Dresden. No idea how it got there! Please check my translations. The main title is something I haven't been able figure out. Title: 日本地埋大系別卷五富士山 - ??, Special Volume 5, Mount Fuji Author: 武田久吉 - Takeda Hisayoshi Publisher: 改造社版 - Kaizousha Underside of slipcase: 第十七回配本 - 17th edition Date: Showa 6 It has a small sticker of the Kitazawa Bookstore in Kanda Tokyo inside the back cover. Book is in almost perfect condition. Half the pages are text, other half pictures of Mt Fuji and surrounding area. It's about topology, ground profiles, local plants etc. One more question: The last page lists publisher etc. info. There is a post-stamp like sticker (bird and publisher title) with the stamp of the author - is this like an autograph? I'll post some pictures and further questions when I find my camera. P.S.: One page is damaged. Does anyone know the publisher's website (I know they still exist) so I can ask for a copy of the page?

I'm always inpressed by those. But they are a bit impractical. Here's a page about the Norimitsu (and others) with a nice comparison - a guy holding the sword upright. The page has measurements, photos and some background info if available. http://japantrip.tripod.com/nodachi/norimitsu.html From what I understand, most of these huge ones are made from multiple parts forged together. But the Norimitsu is made from a single piece. Just imagine the forge and the smith working on it!

Hi, I've taken apart a few tsuka so far and the surfaces have always been very smooth - as if handled barehandedly for a long time or treated with oils. Of course, this could also have happened because of rubbing between wood and ito. So were the wooden cores of tsuka treated in any way before wrapping? (for example for profection from water) If so, what methods were used?

Police "saber" - judging by the symbol.

Hmm... Have you tried acetone or turpentine?

3 months??? The longer they are on there the larger the risk they won't go away! Use acetone. Removes oil (choji and human) and cleans the blade while it's at it. Oil the blade afterwards.

True. Btw: Cut+paste is one way. But you can also set autocorrect/autoreplace. Might be faster.

We learned "ou" instead of "ō" in Japanese - our teacher was Japanese too. Both work if you use the Hepburn system. I think what's most important is that you only use one style and only one romanization system - and that consistently.

I asked about the signature here: viewtopic.php?f=15&t=17441

Interesting... Realistic (top 3): a dated and signed pre-1543 Wakizashi/Chisakatana in healthy condition, a shrine offering sword, a dated Ichihara Nagamitsu Unrealistic (top 3): Doujigiri Yasutsuna, Hijikata Toshizo's Izumi no Kami Kanesada, Kusanagi no tsurugi @Andrew: Yeah, Senbonzakura would be nice... :D