drdata

looks like a mune stamp as well. Mine has the Na. Can you confirm?

No star stamp? Perhaps smith was not working under RJT at the time?

or even some cardboard from a matchbook...

I'll chime in for starters. Looks like a real nihonto. Congrats. You will need to remove the handle and get some pics of the tang/nakago, tip of sword pointing up, to get better opinions as to possible age/maker. Gets shots of both sides. Given you say the pin is missing the handle should come off with some light tapping using some wood to prevent any marring. A light coat of oil is all for now. Do not try and polish or clean the blade/tang in anyway. Read the blade handling and care/etiquette link: http://www.nihontomessageboard.com/faq.html (care and maintenance section) You will want to make a peg/menugi from a chopstick or such ASAP. The wooden pin is what keeps the blade in handle and prevents the tip/kissaki from impacting at bottom of scabbard/saya and chipping, which judging from the pics is something that may have already happened. HTHs, and welcome. PS> We ask a first name here, either in signature or handle, so we can address appropriately. You can set a sig in the profile that adds this automatically.

or even matchbook cardboard when you need very thin shim. Like leather will compress a bit, can be cut smaller so as to not be too noticeable. Regards

The first pic makes the nagako (tang) seems a bit wonky. Brian's good avice applies that much more if its been altered in anyway. Are there any stamps on the nakago? Regards

Hmm. Tried today with both firefox and chrome. When I hit the donate button things seem to want to happen (page refreshes) but nothing happens. Same page, no paypal button. Will check back later. Edit: the pull down worked. 2 PP credits sent. Cheers

Just wow: I think now a joke. I mean, the Illuminati? From recent update: "Considering all information available to me, and based upon numerous points of triangulation, including personal observations and experiences, and personal histories pertaining to numerous individuals, going back over decades, and in fact, likely going back to the early Edo period in Japan, my opinion is that the authenticity of this blade may be a relatively superficial aspect of the mystery revolving around it. I believer the copper repair at the hilt of the sword was not the original repair commissioned by the Marine who brought the sword back from WWII, I believe this second repair may have been completed within the decade, most likely in an East Asian country, and if I had to guess specifically where, I would guess Indonesia or possibly Thailand. 110818 in DMY date format is August 11th, 2018, which corresponds to the date of the New Moon in 2018. I believe the number stamp on the copper repair on the sword hilt is in fact the signature ... of the Illuminati. My assessment is largely speculative and circumstantial, however, I suspect this may be the very first katana ever made by Echigo no kami Kanesada II, which may explain the Damascus style technique. For lack of a better term, I believe there is an Illuminati death curse on this blade, and the only way to remove this curse would be to return the blade to it's rightful heir. I believe there is also a means of determining who the rightful heir may be in that this person would likely be in possession of a katana hilt guard, likely forged in Japan in the 1970's - 1980's (prior to the second copper repair) that is fashioned to precisely match the exact dimensions of the copper repair at the location where the hilt guard would be located. "

I too have a kanehide with star stamp. Has some numbers painted on tang. It did get a paper at San Fran a few years back. Regards

Both gendiato and showato can have painted numbers/marks on the nakago. General consensus is these are used during assembly to track the various parts of the koshira. Regards

I have interest.

I suppose a repair is reasonable. At first it seemed like it might be a way to prevent wear via reinforcement. It looked well done. Regards

I've never noticed a leather wrap around the tassel as for #2. Pic added as soon ebay will take down the auction pics.

I sent in my small donation today. Cheap for the value this site provides. Cheers

Thanks Ford. I believe this is the first time I have seen Yasurimei being done. As expected, the smith makes it look so easy as hew free hands it with only his thumb as a file guide. Also interesting to see all the work that goes into the component skin/core steel; trying to weld together that heap of chips must be a real feat. Regards

Yikes, that is pricy at 300 for a re-pop The crowns seem a bit loose, but no expert.

No expert. If the saya cannot be split I would consider using a rifle cleaning rod with brush/patches, say .22 caliber and plastic. I would not force it, as it may not fit into the very end and that could split. For solvent I would consider something mild like iso alcohol, 90%. Don't soak things, just a moist patch and based on what comes up go from there. If wood lined the small water content may cause some swelling. I would then let dry for several days, depending on area, before replacing blade. Perhaps wrap blade in plastic wrap on first insertion just in case.... But, as always, consult a professional before taking any action on a potentially invaluable antique. Regards PS. Maybe some compressed air, dry (not from a can), to blow out any debris and dust before starting.

wax would tend to negate the need for oil. One or the other IMO. For me, wax on my WWII bayonet, not on my nihonto. Regards

2nd this. Perhaps a can of freeze spray and at same time a heat gun directed around the barrel. Downside is once cold it is more brittle, so might snap. This after oil and gentle heating/soak for a week or so, which I suspect has already occurred. Better guns have temp settings that should ensure no damage to the metal/inlays. http://www.amazon.com/MG-Chemicals-Supe ... +spray+gum

I am concerned that the nakago been welded on, or perhaps its just a crack? Regards

Nice review Ron. Thanks.

Applying oil to rusted steel is always a good idea. Use a few soft tissues and discard after each wipe. I would not advise any type of rust removal/conversion products. Regards

First is definitely fake, second also most likely, but pics are bad. Please see this link at top of page: http://jssus.org/nkp/fake_japanese_swords.html The "loud" pattern welded pattern on the first blade is a dead giveaway. True hada/grain is much more subtle.

Looks like a seki stamp, which would make it non traditional in some fashion, likely oil quench and/or mill steel. The BIN price is not terrible, but there is no koshiria and pics may hide issues that could affect value. HTHs

As fyi, saw this on a WWII board: http://www.wehrmacht-awards.com/forums/ ... 787&page=2 I think its repro but does seem scary close. The loose weave/asymmetry of the round knots seems to tip in my mind.