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That wolf must have been James Cameron's inspiration for the ones on Avatar's home world of Pandora.

The roots look like an octopus or squid tentacles with an eye part way centered on the stalk.

Get the seller to have it tested with the laser spectrum gun the scrap metal buyers use. No harm to the item and you will know the composition of the alloy.

Looks like the iron didn't fuse during the forging process. Slag or scale got trapped and over time separated the layers.

I think you looking at a time investment project. It is unusual and in my experience people seem reluctant to say too much in these situations. You may find your self taking it to sword show to meet people who can see the blade in person. You should probably follow previous advice to get great photos that are clear and show details. Try to keep it from rusting.

Does the address tag imply whoever surrendered it was hoping to get it back one day?

The stamped back ground looks off to me. I don't have a great deal of experience here but the dots are randomly placed and not consistent with other period pieces. And the colors look suspicious. Please correct me if I am wrong.

One way to tell would be do you have first hand knowledge about manufacturing process? Could you make this? The casting process is straight forward or maybe it is not. If the original model is investment cast there will not be any parting lines. There can be random flashing if cracks form in the mold/flask during burnout to remove the wax. Two part sand molds will leave parting lines and porosity and if the pieces are finished in a hurry you will see them. But, if you take the time to go over the piece, those lines can be removed and porosity can be filled or burnished. Fabrication by forging; you start with a solid disc then you have to sculpt the metal by physically cutting away the areas you don't want to reveal the design. This makes me think about the tools. What tools were on the bench and would one have the means to produce the design using those specific tools. But, the grain in forged iron will only be visible if the patina is not present and then only after an acid etch. Long story short, IMHO, one would need to have knowledge about how it was made to say what it is, cast or forged. Or as Dale put it the concrete floor on a cold day will reveal the truth 🫢.

Doggone it am I too late to fan the flames of absurdity? How about powdered metal? it works for jet engine turbines.🤪

I bought the connoisseur of the Japanese sword by Kokan Nagayama to try to identify the hamon on my legit blade with the gimei signature. I did a sketch because the blade is out of polish and the hamon is hard to see. I can't find it in the book. My drawing skills are a little rusty but I drew out what I could see. Is anyone willing to take a guess as to school, style or other thoughts? Thanks

The Norimitsu I am looking for was working during Taishou 1912 - 1926.

The eyes don't look right to me, they don't express anything sinister or emotions.

Does anyone have a picture they could share or know where I can find an example of a mei by Norimitsu Seki who worked during Taishou (1912-1926). I have Internet searched with no results. Thank you

Any ideas on what school or smiths used this created this type of yasurime and hamon?

Glad to hear it is technical issues, I was worried.

Recent comments from another topic are prompting me to start this one. Not being well educated in this subject I inquired of the oracle (Google) and made some study notes. Do you have a favorite yasurime? If you would like to share please tell and include the smith and the school. Thanks

Are these pictures of the blade enough or ok? I'm starting to get cataracts I included a close up of a flaw in the forging I thought it would show the grain. I will come clean it was an eBay purchase 🤪😵‍💫 in gunto fittings. But it looked odd I knew it wasn't a wartime mfg. I wanted something I could practice Iado with and not worry about wrecking a nice polish. But now I am thinking there is a chance this has a bit of history. I researched the date, at that time the Hongan-ji were under siege by Nobunaga in Osaka. Perhaps the original owner had some spiritual/ family history connection to that religion and added the inscription for good luck prior to deployment during WWII. I see 🙄 eyes rolling but anything is possible.

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Recently I received help for finding translation tools. I managed to find about half of the kanji on this Nakago in Sesco's nihonto compendium and a couple of books I own. Some of the kanji is hard to read and it looks like a few choices that are close. Could someone help me out with the ones I am missing? Sorry about the horizontal pictures the hone has a mind of its own. Thanks in advance.

Brian, there is a wide range of prices for Long rifle and fowlers. If you are not concerned about the details there is an Italian mfg. Where you can buy something for less but the gracefulness and style is missing. To build something that presents what they were with the actual look and balance i have to charge $2900 - $4900. For the tanegashima they don't have the more complex locks but I haven't seen production match lock parts other than barrels that have to have specific breech plugs made. The rest of the parts I would have hand build. Then there is the problem of the wood, I would have to find a source for stable dried yew oak. I could use other wood maybe some other oak,hickory, hard plain maple but this would be up to the buyer. To agree with you the price due to extra time to make parts I would have to charge in the $4500-$5500 range. .

Sorry for posting twice if the moderators are watching they should take this post down. I am an antique gunsmith so I was trying to see if there is any interest in custom built tanegashima one could actually use.

Hello, by preferable I meant perhaps someone may want to save the wear and tear on an antique by using a faithful copy for practice. You go to the range sometimes the guns get dropped or knocked over. Black powder is very corrosive you have to disassemble the gun clean everything with hot soapy water after shooting. It's stressful on a valuable antique. Original European and American barrels were forged welded flat skelp turned to from tubes. The corrosive effects of the black powder works it's way into the iron that is what causes twist Damascus barrels to fail. The tanegashima probably used a similar process to mfg gun barrels.

Hello Peter, I have been building 18th and 19th century American style flintlock fowlers and rifles for 10 years now. I was taught by two of the Top 10 antique gunsmiths in the USA. I wanted to see if there was any interest or desire for historically accurate shootable matchlocks in the Japanese arms community. If so I would offer my skills to build custom tanegashima to enjoy with out the worry of wear and tear on a priceless antique.

For those who enjoy shooting. Would it be preferable to take a historically accurate reproduction match lock to the gun range instead of your prized original? Is anyone making accurate reproductions. Is this something anyone would want?

For those who enjoy shooting. It would be preferable to take a historically accurate reproduction match lock to the gun range instead of the original? Is anyone making accurate reproductions. Is this something anyone would want?