ROKUJURO

While BOKUTO literally means "wooden sword" which is basically used in martial arts training, a decorated item like this would probably have another purpose. It could have been a memorial or presentation item, but it could have served as CHATO as well. In my understanding, "Doctor's sword" or "CHATO" are not exactly describing terms for the object itself but for its use.

Probably not a BOKUTO but a CHATO or a "doctor's sword". But very nice!

Hi Jake, in my opinion, it is unlikely to be stag-horn which is a bone material, consisting mainly of calcium phosphate. If it is not some polished quartz, it is probably glass as Ray says. An expert may be able to polish it so PINOCCHIO would have clear view again!

In summer 1977, there was a high-quality sword show in KOBE. With a preparation time of ten (= ten) years, they had gathered swords from private collections, and there were three MASAMUNE blades which had never been shown in public. I could imagine that there might be a few more hidden from view.

John, if I had an old car or even an airplane, I would rather replace any damaged or doubtful part before using it. But with genuine antiques, I am on your side with keeping it as authentic as possible.

I tried to make photos of the ICHIMAI BOSHI but I could not capture it properly. Instead, I drew a 'fictious' line of how the HAMON goes.

As Kevin wrote above. There are many blades showing fine fissures on the MUNE, and some collectors are afraid that this might be flaws. But it is just a welding-seam on blades where the SHINGANE has not been encapsulated completely. This is done on purpose to leave the MUNE somewhat softer than the rest of the blade to block or deflect an opponent's strike. Comimg back to ICHIMAI-BOSHI, this is a feature that has mostly to do with TSUCHI-OKI (= application of clay before quenching/YAKI IRE). As described above, you can create a fully hardened KISSAKI by widening the YAKIBA when it comes close to the YOKOTE. Often in this case, the HAMON makes a more or less sharp turn back so it does not appear in the KISSAKI. Depending on the polish, you would not always identify an ICHIMAI BOSHI by looking at the MUNE, but if the TOGISHI used HADORI, this could be more obvious.

Jeff, in a true ICHIMAI BOSHI, you will not see a HAMON. In most cases, the HAMON will be getting wider towards the YOKOTE so that it fills the width of the JI. I have a blade with ICHIMAI BOSHI, but it is difficult to catch in a photo. Maybe I can try tomorrow. You wrote;....is it always apparent in the topology of the metal as to how it was tempered.... TEMPERING is not HARDENING! Tempering (YAKIMODOSHI in Japanese) does not produce a HAMON, but hardening through quenching (= YAKIIRE) in water does.

Ron, TACHI-MEI looks like KANEKADO to me. MEKUGI-ANA do not have the burrs removed which may indicate a late manufacture. The KOSHIRA-E (not Koshirai) would possibly confirm young age.

Willy, depending on where this KANJI was chiseled, it could have different reading and meaning. A "normal" photo showing the whole item in context could be helpful.

Micro-welding can also be done by goldsmiths with a very small, very hot hydrogen-oxygen flame welding apparatus: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xEX5xpKuhUw Dale, in your case, you might also have the missing MIMI of this TSUBA re-installed!

Sorry Oli, I don't have books on TOSOGU, but other members will certainly be able to help.

I think I can read TOSHIYUKI.

This low resolution photo is not helpful; it could be anything. FUCHI are usually not signed or marked on the inside.

James, all NAKAGO photos (except one with a date) cannot be read as they are upside-down. Please do not shoot the photos at an angle but right from above. The TSUBA and FUCHI photos are not oriented correctly either. The NANAKO-JI of the FUCHI is of low quality, the horses are hopefully a bit better (if I could see them properly). It is difficult to give an opinion of a sword only with photos, so these should be as good as possible. Just look at how swords are presented in books !

Jack, I get the impression that this is a modern item. No handle, no patina, a bit crudely made, 'signature' machine (?) stamped and upside-down - all that might speak for a non-Japanese origin.

TANBA no KAMI YOSHIMICHI (not Tanban) Maxime, did you compare with https://www.samuraimuseum.jp/shop/tanba-no-kami-yoshimichi-丹波守吉道/?srsltid=AfmBOooFLRvYG1Xy4nJXbhStYMhHk_D-NB3kVDG3LCAGQkhgaDHDTbTc Just comparing the signatures will probably not be enough. It is always the work which is the important factor in KANTEI. Since the polish on your blade is not good, it might be a problem. Most doubtful is the KIKU symbol above the MEI. The photo is not good, but I think this is not well made so I would not have high hopes that your sword is a genuine YOSHIMICHI one (who was a very famous swordsmith and was often faked).

Please sign all posts with your first name so we could address you in a polite manner. It is a rule here on NMB. You can integrate your name in your profile for convenience. Identifiying your sword as non-Japanese imitation is very easy in case you have some experience with these weapons. In your case, there is nothing that has a resemblance with authentic items. You can see that yourself by comparing.

I have such a TSUBA, made in the same mold. I bought it in 1977 for YEN 500 as souvenir in a hardware shop in KYOTO who were selling knives, scissors, decoration swords, and such.

Curran, in case the ANA are plugged from both sides, the copper inserts are a bit conical, so tapping them in would need more force than tapping them out. Once you get one side out, it becomes much easier. In older TSUBA, the URUSHI can become quite hard and brittle and will not move even with low heat. But on iron TSUBA, removing the plugs shold not be a big problem if you don't need to preserve them. This TENBO TSUBA has lost one insert on the left side.

Everybody sees that their own way! If it was only the metal parts.....

John, now that you have finished your nice SUZURI BAKO, you are well trained and ready for serious tasks! Could you please come over and finish my TANSU? There are still three long drawer fronts not pictured. It would be easy work for you as most of the wood is KIRI; some is KEYAKI. Awaiting your soonest reply,,,,,,

Have you got a drill-press? If yes, making a valuable "Hidden Christian" TSUBA is fast and easy! Tutorial: q1223551604 on JAUCE or BUYEE