ROKUJURO

Unlikely as the HAMON is still perfectly intact. But you are correct, the NAKAGO surface is deeply pitted from corrosion.

Richard, no SORI is MU ZORI, not UCHI ZORI. Otherwise a nice and elegant blade.

There is still Andrew Ickeringill in OZ.

Sam, that is exactly the way to deal (= live) with it! Others have other disabilities, and sometimes it is not even obvious.

Thanky Mike, the last photo is good! So Mauro saw it correctly!

Interesting! So what about writing FUCHI-GASHIRA vs. FUCHI-KASHIRA? I don't speak Japanese, but I always thought there were rules to it. And KOGATANA vs. KO-KATANA, KOZUKA vs. KO-TSUKA?

So how should we deal with it in your opinion? Everybody spells it as they like? No rules, no mistakes?

Hi Michael, I don't think correct spelling is based on a voting system, but yes, some people do it differently. SHIRO is white, but in my experience, most people (and books) use the term SHIRASAYA. Different spelling may also have to do with translating KANJI into ROMAJI which at times seems to be difficult for Japanese people. You sometimes see TUBA written instead of TSUBA, just as an example. Or look at the spelling of KATCHUSHI, KACHUSHI, KACCHUSHI. There is no sound like CCU or TCHU in the KANA system.

Buying (modern) Chinese stuff is always a loss (except for the Chinese....), but in your case the loss is small.

On the photos, I think I can see hints for it being cast in the first place and then reworked and finished with small brass inlay. But to be sure, one has to see the TSUBA in-hand.

Yes, I think I can read the same, but I am not sure it is a traditionally handmade TSUBA.

Kevin, to be blunt: I don't see it as pretty, and the SHIRASAYA looks clumsy and amateurish, at least on these phptos. If you compare this sword to authentic others in good condition, you will probably come to the same conclusion. Still, this discussion should not be posted here but under NIHONTO.

Kevin, welcome to the NMB forum. This is appearing in the wrong section, I think. Although probably longer, this blade looks like the 20th century tourist TANTO that van still be found on antique markets. The short and unproportionate NAKAGO and the undefined lines let me believe so. I hope you did not pay much.....

I apologize, I simply have no knowledge on these military blades! How are the blades fixed securely in the TSUKA?

Dan, you should show the entire "naked" blade without HABAKI and, separately, the NAKAGO, but I don't see a MEKUGI. Photos always with dark, non-reflecting background, and blade vertically tip-upwards.

Uncommon to me as well, but I have not seen everything that exists.

Copper (or brass) TSUBA are always made from a pre-cast blank, even when they are hand-finished afterwards. The above one certainly looks like an amateur attempt. With modern casting trechnology, making soft-metal TSUBA in a one-step process is possible in a die mold.

That is the famous Swiss TSUBA design:

John, referring a bit late to your post of December 1st, when you posted an altered TSUBA with ITOMAKI design. I had a look in my collection on these calm days and found perhaps what you were thinking of:

Grev, in your SUKASHI TSUBA I think I can see 'overlapping circles' called WACHIGAI. A common feature in TSUBA.

Roy, no. 4 is made in HEIANJO style, but I believe your other TSUBA do not show specific details which would allow to assign them to a tradition or school. In my opinion this even applies to the TSUBA with KUNIHIRO signature. Among other factors like rarity, the value of a TSUBA depends on the basic quality and the preservation condition, which results in a higher or lower desirability to collectors. In this case, it is very difficult to guess a "market value" as there are also collectors who buy TSUBA outside of these criteria if they are cheap enough. Keeping my personal scale out of the game, your TSUBA may sell between $ 100.-- and $ 20.-- each IF you find a buyer.

Roy, no. 6 is still upside-down and will get dizzy in that position! All that was said above is correct and fitting, but I want to add that these simple TSUBA mainly suffer from their corroded condition. They were probably never high-end, but looking much better (except no. 5) before they were neglected . There is not much you can do for them unless you get very well informed about the restoration of iron TSUBA. No fast and easy work!

ChatGPT should be a member here and study the subject!

Perhaps not all TSUBA makers were strictly following a design system.

A chopstick rest?