Grey Doffin

Hi Roy, To some extent it depends on which smith is mentioned in the signature and on the paper, and it also depends on the reputation of the organization issuing the paper. Generally though, unless the signature is of a very early and very important smith for whom there are few extant signatures, and once the owner is comfortable with (believes) the designation of gimei, if the signature isn't cut so deeply that it can't be removed without seriously damaging the nakago, the signature is removed so the paper can be received. If the mei is too deep the owner gets to live with a gimei blade. Many times I've heard griping that a blade was bounced because it was gimei and the owner had the mei removed and resubmitted the blade to shinsa and it then papered to exactly what the mei said before removal; how is that fair?. This shouldn't surprise any of us. Just because the work is right for a smith doesn't mean the mei is correct, and shnisa teams don't paper gimei blades. Grey

Hi Mac, What I would do with the sword were I in your shoes. Do not clean the tang; do nothing whatsoever to this part of the blade. Corrosion/gunk on loose metal pieces (tsuba, seppa, whatever) can be cleaned with warm water and a toothbrush. If the pin (mekugi) is loose or weak I would replace it with a new one, which I would whittle from a bamboo chopstick. The mekugi is very important as it locks the blade in the handle and doesn't allow it to fall loose and shatter its point in the scabbard bottom or on the floor. Coat the non tang portion of the blade with a very light coating of machine oil. Get an uchiko puff/ball and use it to remove a lot of the surface corrosion on the blade. Here is a link to a care & etiquette site that explains how: http://www.nbthk-ab.org/Etiquette.htm I wouldn't have the blade polished (goes without saying that I wouldn't try to polish it myself; that would be insanity) because the expense isn't justified by the value and the corrosion isn't bad enough to bother with. If you wanted to spend some money to make this more like what it was when made, you could have the handle rewrapped and the scabbard reglued. You could look into a new, lacquered scabbard but it looks like the uncoated scabbard is the original condition. Resist all temptation to wing it (come up with your own formula for restoration). Chemical rust removers, abrasive pads, Elmer's Glue All and pretty much everything else you can think of will only dig the hole deeper. Grey

Martin, I can't tell much just form the pictures you posted. Maybe someone else can tell you if that's a proper blade for Shimada Sukemune. Grey

Hi Martin, Yes, Shimada Sukemune. Grey

In only 1 of my books did I find pictures of blades by Lekko: Tetsu no Isshin. Below are pictures of the 2 best shots of hada. Grey

Rekko, sometimes in English as Lekko, is correct for the name of the smith who signed with a clock face. I question whether the 1st picture is really hada. To me it looks like 2 different qualities of steel worked together, not crystalline structure in one steel. I'd be interested in hearing what others think about this. Grey

http://www.ebay.com/itm/380374610878?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649 Grey

Hi J. The little guy on the end of the handle is a family crest, Mon, that corresponds to the last owner's family. There may be lumps of paper in the bottom of the handle that are stopping the blade from seating properly. Reaching in with a knitting needle or some such and tapping the handle upside down on a horizontal surface might dislodge any stuck in there. Once you know the cavity is clear place the blade in the handle, hold the sword vertical in your right hand, and tap on the bottom of the handle with your left palm. This should get the blade where it belongs. It is very important that the pin (mekugi) is through the hole in handle and tang, as the pin keeps the blade anchored in the handle and away from the bottom of the scabbard where its point can be shattered. It may be tight enough without the pin now but changes in humidity can change and loosen the fit. Grey

It would be tough to come up with an answer that isn't Kanemoto on this one. Me too I guess. Grey

Hi Vlad, Looks very much like real Nihonto to me. Never seen a fake look this real. Grey

Hi Lori, If the blade isn't beat up or badly rusted, and if the mounts are in decent shape, I would guess between $800 and $1,000, possibly a bit more depending how you go about selling. The paint on the tang are the number 938, by the way. Grey

Hi, The signature is Kanezumi (not 100% sure about the 2nd character; hard to see), and the date is a lucky day in 1943, I believe. Grey

Hi Vlad, Couldn't find any attached paper but Mike Quigley is a sword collector/dealer who lives in Texas. Grey

Hoki no Kami Fujiwara no Hirotaka and Echizen no Ju. Grey

Hi Martin, Bob Benson in Hawaii is an agent for getting swords and fittings to and from restoration and shinsa at the NBTHK. Easiest option for you is to send your stuff to Bob. There are others in Japan who can do this also. Grey

The website is back up; write to Owazamono and ask them. Grey

I saw those and wrote to the seller about the fakes. Got an answer that an expert had looked at them and had determined they were real. I think one of the 7 is real and another might be. The rest are phoney baloney. Grey

Not commenting on the prices, but the blades and sales seem to be on the level. If you'd like to see pictures of the nakago write and ask for some. Grey

Curtis, You can trust Chris; no cause for concern. If the sword passes shinsa and gets a paper, great. If it doesn't pass I think you should leave well enough alone and not bother with another attempt. Grey

Hi Curt, I wouldn't put this tsuba to shinsa. Save your money for something better to study. Of course, others might disagree. Grey

Hi, name please, Your asking about the steel leads me to wonder if you plan to cut with this sword. If that's so best not to. A poorly made blade can shatter in a cut and the pieces become shrapnel; you can get seriously damaged. Grey

Hi Justin, You also had maple, birch, beech, and a variety of soft woods you could have used. I would prefer any of these to oak for a project like this because I think the wild grain of oak works against the straight lines of the cabinet. Looks nice, though. Grey

Thanks Chris. Grey

Hi guys, Would someone tell me the title; I'd be most grateful. I don't own it yet and if someday I do own it it might be for sale. Thanks, Grey

I think Kaneshige also, but not 100% sure about the Kane. The date is Showa Ju Hachji Nen, 1943. Grey