Opinions and possible age on Wakizashi.

[Logan09]

Picked up this Wakizashi. I am thinking of getting it polished but was wondering if it might be worth it(as I know it's going to cost a lot) I am thinking it's an Edo Wakizashi.

 

I had to do a lot of editing to get the hamon to show up in photos, that's why they're black and white. Hamon is only visible in the sun and I can't photo it.

 

Nagasa is 19-15/16"

Sori is 5/8"

Overall is 24-7/8"

 

Thanks.

-Logan-

[Geraint]

Dear Logan.

 

I would think you are right bout it being an Edo period piece.  I am intrigued by the fuchi, do I see kanji to the right of the tree?

 

Standard advice is that a mumei shinto wakizashi is never going to repay your investment in a polish in financial terms.  However that is not the only criteria and there is some joy to be had in seeing a sword in fresh polish.  The question is are you so keen on this sword that you can stand to take a loss financially just to see it in all it's glory?  I am sure that you know that there are also risks, a hidden flaw that shows up after polish for example.  Personally I don't usually buy a sword that I don't intend to keep and so for me the answer would be to have it polished but most people will counsel you not to invest.

 

Your sword, your call, your money but do let us know how this one turns out and please can I see some more of that fuchi?

 

All the best.

[Logan09]

Thanks for the reply geraint. I figured as much, there is also some pitting in the blade which is a shame.

 

The blade is hefty also, it only weighs maybe 1-3oz less than my 5 katana blades. The blade is razor sharp, but not about an inch up from the hamachi. So I'm thinking it might still be on its first polish?

 

Also, you can see the mounts here:http://www.militaria.co.za/nmb/topic/28672-translation-help-on-kashira-and-fuchi-photos-added-427-whose-up-for-a-challenge/

, you're correct in that the fuchi has writing on it. I can not get a good enough photo to have it translated.

[16k]

Thanks for the reply geraint. I figured as much, there is also some pitting in the blade which is a shame.

The blade is hefty also, it only weighs maybe 1-3oz less than my 5 katana blades. So I'm thinking it might still be on its first polish?

Also, you can see the mounts here:http://www.militaria.co.za/nmb/topic/28672-translation-help-on-kashira-and-fuchi-photos-added-427-whose-up-for-a-challenge/

, you're correct in that the fuchi has writing on it. I can not get a good enough photo to have it translated.

I agree with Geraint, both about the period and about the polishing. Still as he said, if you’re not looking at an investment but at the pleasure of looking at it, then you’ll make the right choice.

 

I’m not sure the weight has anything to do with it being in its first polish. I don’t think it would have such an incidence. Besides, Shinto blades are notoriously heavier than Kotō blades.

[Logan09]

I had more written JP, but was editing through it and hit the post button. It's kind of a pain on the phone. I edited it again but didn't feel like re-writing everything and trying to lookup the correct terminology

[Rivkin]

Wakizashi probably around 1650, school is probably closely related to classical Mino. Should be possible to get the smith by looking who did this kind of 3-2 peaks sequence in hamon.

But it has many issues so polish is unlikely to reveal a gem.

 

Kirill R.

[SAS]

Looks kind of Mino Kanemoto like; it is hard to tell before hand how much will polish out when rust is so widespread. Sometimes pitting and staining remain if the polish is conservatively done, but most swords can be improved, even if not cost effective based on market prices. I happen to like Mino work, and I like your sword.

[Logan09]

Thanks for the replies. It does look Mino, can't pinpoint the Smith though as I haven't seen the 2-3 peaks pattern yet in my search.

 

I have no doubt there will still be pitting left if it were polished. But I do like the blade, I guess I will have to think of it.

[Surfson]

If you have no doubt that the pits can't come out, my advice is don't do it.  Even if it came out flawless from polish, you would have a tough time getting your money out of it when the time came.  If it has pits after the polish, it will probably start to bother you and you will want to move it along sooner rather than later.  That's when the investment part bites.  Either way, best of luck with it Logan.

[Logan09]

Thanks for the reply Robert. It was in response to Steve's comment on having it "conservatively" polished. Which I took as a polish to make it look "Good" but not a professional polish which should have no problem taking the pits out and not leaving marks behind but would cost significantly more.

[Ken-Hawaii]

Logan, check out https://www.japaneseswordindex.com/togishi.htmfor the types of polishing. I don't think you can tell a togishi to polish a blade "conservatively" or "good," as his job is to make the blade look as close as possible to what the tosho intended.

[SAS]

Thanks for the reply Robert. It was in response to Steve's comment on having it "conservatively" polished. Which I took as a polish to make it look "Good" but not a professional polish which should have no problem taking the pits out and not leaving marks behind but would cost significantly more.

 

My meaning was not that the polish should be just  cosmetic, but not "professional", at all.....what i was saying is that sometimes to remove pits is not in the best interest of the sword, as excessive material would have to be removed through the polishing process. A conservative approach means to "conserve" the sword by not doing inappropriate work chasing defects, which I believe most legitimate polishers would agree with. Or so it is said